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Thread: Goldring G99 - A Resto too far 8-<>

  1. #21
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

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    I'm openingabottleofwine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by REXTON View Post
    I also managed to restore the original mat to new new condition thanks to Autoglyn rubber care products a little expensinve at £8 per bottle but very very worthwhile.
    Is it this: ?

    Remember that your precious vinyl will be in direct contact with the rubber mat. There is a risk therefore of the vinyl becoming atacked by chemicals in the tyre black paint.
    Barry

  2. #22
    Join Date: Mar 2015

    Location: Finland

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    I'm Kai.

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    Quote Originally Posted by REXTON View Post
    Todays Update - The Goldring 99 Resto Pt IV - Coming together (oo-er missues).

    The deck is still in pieces but I managed to find a little time to do some tinkering. I've managed to find the correct colours so that I can strip and respray the chasis so I will be starting this just at some point. I have all the products so I'm hoping to maybe do a slow restoration over the next few days. I'll probably leave 24h between each coat of primer, paint, laquer etc.
    I have no idea what you'll be using for paint, so might be a moot point and obviously you'll be best off doing as they recommend, but if you're using spray cans, a lot of the stuff is recommended to paint either wet on wet (usually 10-30min between layers or so) or after completely dry which could be up to a week. Most of the time you can get away with not following the instructions to a letter, but I've also had it happen the whole surface turned crackly because the new coat reactivated the underlaying coat which was "dry" but not dry enough ie completely hardened and in it's final state.

    Btw. what's what weird looking idler wheel and is it something that was made specifically for G99? Is that plastic?

  3. #23
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

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    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry View Post
    Is it this: ?

    Remember that your precious vinyl will be in direct contact with the rubber mat. There is a risk therefore of the vinyl becoming atacked by chemicals in the tyre black paint.
    Nope its not that Barry.

    Quote Originally Posted by brian2957 View Post
    I take it it's going to be grey Andy . Isn't the internet fantastic for finding parts for old gear
    Well its sort of a dark grey, I think it's called Basalt Grey (I could be wrong). The internet is fantastic but not for finding original bits for a Goldring G99.

    Quote Originally Posted by helma View Post
    I have no idea what you'll be using for paint, so might be a moot point and obviously you'll be best off doing as they recommend, but if you're using spray cans, a lot of the stuff is recommended to paint either wet on wet (usually 10-30min between layers or so) or after completely dry which could be up to a week. Most of the time you can get away with not following the instructions to a letter, but I've also had it happen the whole surface turned crackly because the new coat reactivated the underlaying coat which was "dry" but not dry enough ie completely hardened and in it's final state.

    Btw. what's what weird looking idler wheel and is it something that was made specifically for G99? Is that plastic?
    I've done quite a few of these paint jobs now and usually give 20-30 minutes between coats of paint and then I leave for 24-48 hours before applying laquer. I also have no idea if this is an origial Goldring idler wheel. It looks like nothing I've ever seen but it's a perfect fit and diameter and the new rubber from Germany fitted perfectly so I presume it's Koshea.
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  4. #24
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

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    I'm Andrew.

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    Todays Update - The Goldring 99 Resto Pt V - 'lbo grease

    A little more progress today in that the idler arm linkages got a deep restoration. Every part got stripped and cleaned with wet and dry paper from Grade 60 all the way upto 2400, very labour intensive and extremely boring . I feel like having a little rest from restoring the mechanical gubbins of the deck so I might start stripping the chasis tomorrow night. Heres a quick picture showing all the restored bits so far. The platter mat looks great, the bearing has scubbed up well and so far I'm quite happy with the progress.

    DSCN3202.jpg

    As ever, stay tuned...
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

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    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  5. #25
    Join Date: Mar 2015

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    Nice work and I'm so glad I didn't bid on that thing because clearly it got a better home than I could've ever provided

  6. #26
    Join Date: May 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by helma View Post
    Nice work and I'm so glad I didn't bid on that thing because clearly it got a better home than I could've ever provided
    +1

    Andy , is the bearing the same as the GL75 . It looks like it .

    Very nice work BTW
    Regards
    Brian

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  7. #27
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    looking good Andy
    Regards,
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  8. #28
    Join Date: Apr 2009

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    The G99 I have here is pristine and fully working. You're a better man than me, taking on that one..

    I'm still deciding whether it's to be the G99 or a 301 I have as my final turntable. I also have an excellent TD124 but as I want to mount a 12 inch SME and FR-64X, that is out of the running.

  9. #29
    Join Date: Nov 2010

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    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by helma View Post
    Nice work and I'm so glad I didn't bid on that thing because clearly it got a better home than I could've ever provided
    Thanks! I'm glad you didn't bid on it either, I got it cheap! Seriously thanks for the kind comments. This deck still has a long way to go.

    Quote Originally Posted by brian2957 View Post
    +1

    Andy , is the bearing the same as the GL75 . It looks like it .

    Very nice work BTW
    Yep it's the same as the '75 which means it's pretty easy to work on. I'm down to about 15 minutes now to completely strip, service, and rebuild a '75 bearing.

    Quote Originally Posted by struth View Post


    looking good Andy
    Thanks Grant.

    Quote Originally Posted by hifi_dave View Post
    The G99 I have here is pristine and fully working. You're a better man than me, taking on that one..

    I'm still deciding whether it's to be the G99 or a 301 I have as my final turntable. I also have an excellent TD124 but as I want to mount a 12 inch SME and FR-64X, that is out of the running.
    Now your just showing off!! I've got a nice SME 3009 sitting on my bookshelf that I've just restored waiting for this one.
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  10. #30
    Join Date: Nov 2010

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    Todays Update - The Goldring 99 Resto Pt VI - Idle thoughts.

    I'm stripping down the '99 down to bare metal tonight and boy is it hard work. The paint job is probably the best thing on this deck. Grade 50 paper does not even touch it. So it hello Mr. Nitromorse, then lots of elbow grease with Mr. 50 grit paper. The '99 looks like a very lazy mash up of the Lenco 75 top plate and the Garrard 301 chasis shape. Now either Goldring did a load of research and came to the conclusion that the Garrard's Chasis was the best thing since sliced bread or it was a blatent copy spliced together after a piss up at the local pub. We shall never find out. I'm currently listening to a bit of Iron Maiden and having a cuppa whilst the stripper does its work. I'll take some more photo's tonight to show you the progress. All good fun so far. I may have sourced some on/off buttons or a decent replacement for them at least. I'm waiting for a fellow '99 owner to get back to me with the buttons dimensions. I think the on/off switch should look pretty good when it's repaired. These are all jobs for later this week or next. So, until next time, as ever, stay tuned.
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

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    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



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