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Thread: Pye Mozart HF10 stereo pair

  1. #11
    Join Date: Mar 2015

    Location: Finland

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    I'm Kai.

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    AFAIK JJ EL34 quality is fine these days, at least a well respected Finnish vendor seems happy about selling them, which apparently isn't the case with JJ KT77 which they still don't recommend because of quality control issues, though I recall reading somewhere the KT77 have also gotten better. They also offer a "hifi graded" version of the JJ EL34, which they have ran in and tested extensively, apparently about 5-10% of product they get their hands on meets their criteria of specs. Adds 10 euros to the price per valve, so a pair would run about 50 euros, but they do throw in an extended (6 months) warranty, so might as well go with that. Haven't yet put in the order though and also noticed a NOS pair of Svetlana EL34 wouldn't cost that much more, so wondering if that would be a better value for money.

  2. #12
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

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    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by helma View Post
    AFAIK JJ EL34 quality is fine these days, at least a well respected Finnish vendor seems happy about selling them, which apparently isn't the case with JJ KT77 which they still don't recommend because of quality control issues, though I recall reading somewhere the KT77 have also gotten better. They also offer a "hifi graded" version of the JJ EL34, which they have ran in and tested extensively, apparently about 5-10% of product they get their hands on meets their criteria of specs. Adds 10 euros to the price per valve, so a pair would run about 50 euros, but they do throw in an extended (6 months) warranty, so might as well go with that. Haven't yet put in the order though and also noticed a NOS pair of Svetlana EL34 wouldn't cost that much more, so wondering if that would be a better value for money.
    I'd take Svetlana ("winged C") over JJ all day long At the time when I was getting loads of faulty JJ valves, most valve suppliers in UK were strongly recommending them! Call me cynical... but this makes me think the suppliers were getting a good mark up on them... I do hope that QA has indeed improved since then (about 10 years ago).

    Just an aside but it amazes me that Mullard are so sought after over Brimar, Mazda etc... All of the "BVA" British and European valves from the golden age were of good quality and I sometimes find Brimar to be better than Mullard!
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  3. #13
    Join Date: Dec 2013

    Location: north

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    I'm mick.

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    Try some Russian 6p3s-e,[gold grid] a lot cheaper than n.o.s Mullard .I have used them and can recommend them,although they are not quite the bargain they used to be.I agree with Jez about Brimar and Mazda rivalling Mullard,at this moment I have a set of Mazda's in my amp which I prefer to Mullard's I had previously. Mick
    Nothin' I do don't seem to work ,it only seems to make matters worse!. Jagger/Richards

  4. #14
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

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    Quote Originally Posted by mik_rik View Post
    Try some Russian 6p3s-e,[gold grid] a lot cheaper than n.o.s Mullard .I have used them and can recommend them,although they are not quite the bargain they used to be.I agree with Jez about Brimar and Mazda rivalling Mullard,at this moment I have a set of Mazda's in my amp which I prefer to Mullard's I had previously. Mick
    I wouldn't recommend this! It's a 6L6 near equivalent (lower max ratings than 6L6... bit of a weedy version) and not entirely compatible with EL34. It's a beam tetrode whilst the EL34 is a pentode for a start... It should work but requires different bias and screen grid voltages for proper operation. How it would react to the cathode windings in the Pye is any ones guess!
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

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  5. #15
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Middlesex, UK

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    I'm no expert on valves, but I thought Brimmar and Mazda were often Mullards in disguise.
    Spendorman

  6. #16
    Join Date: Dec 2013

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    A helluva lot of guitar and audio people use the 6p3s-e [not 6p3s which is a totally different valve] built for Russian military and are not "weedy" in their experience.Nothing wrong with trying them after reading other peoples experience .A kt66 is a kinkless tetrode and was GEC'S way around 6l6 patents and is different again ,and people sub 5881 6l6 ,el34 etc in amps up to Quad11 for them.Different construction does not mean they are not able to be used .I can only talk from experience and have used 6p3s-e in a Radford STA 15 ,no red plating ,have took said amp to NEBO's , no issues that anyone heard.I would definately trust them a lot more than other el34's on sale from some ,even reputable vendors.YMMV Mick
    Nothin' I do don't seem to work ,it only seems to make matters worse!. Jagger/Richards

  7. #17
    Join Date: Dec 2013

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    Quote Originally Posted by spendorman View Post
    I'm no expert on valves, but I thought Brimmar and Mazda were often Mullards in disguise.
    Mullards are recognisable by a code etched onto the glass[usually starting with the letter b denoting Blackburn plant,a double seam on top ,and a hole in the locating spigot.Towards the end of valve production,there was quite a bit of cross buying going on but I have no Brimar or Mazda Mullard made,including Ecc and Ef types. Mick
    Nothin' I do don't seem to work ,it only seems to make matters worse!. Jagger/Richards

  8. #18
    Join Date: Oct 2012

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    Quote Originally Posted by mik_rik View Post
    A helluva lot of guitar and audio people use the 6p3s-e [not 6p3s which is a totally different valve] built for Russian military and are not "weedy" in their experience.Nothing wrong with trying them after reading other peoples experience .A kt66 is a kinkless tetrode and was GEC'S way around 6l6 patents and is different again ,and people sub 5881 6l6 ,el34 etc in amps up to Quad11 for them.Different construction does not mean they are not able to be used .I can only talk from experience and have used 6p3s-e in a Radford STA 15 ,no red plating ,have took said amp to NEBO's , no issues that anyone heard.I would definately trust them a lot more than other el34's on sale from some ,even reputable vendors.YMMV Mick
    I haven't heard your Radford but other than that I strongly disagree with everything you said I'm afraid...
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
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  9. #19
    Join Date: Oct 2012

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    Quote Originally Posted by spendorman View Post
    I'm no expert on valves, but I thought Brimmar and Mazda were often Mullards in disguise.
    As Mick said, towards the later period all sorts of things were marked as being a different make... there were even things like Tesla's etc marked Mullard...
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  10. #20
    Join Date: Dec 2013

    Location: north

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    I'm mick.

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    At present ,the GZ34 rectifier valve I am using is branded Zaerix but is Mullard [I would not use anything else,to me more important than the pre and power o/p valves]Goes to show you don't always know who made what.I would use any of the old makes before I would risk losing a mains t/x or an o/p t/x to some of the modern ,cheap Chinese valves. Again ymmv but just my 2pennorth Mick
    Nothin' I do don't seem to work ,it only seems to make matters worse!. Jagger/Richards

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