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Thread: Cheap upgrade for michell gyro

  1. #341
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales

    Posts: 695
    I'm peter.

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    it should take the ceramic white ones in the towers, because you are using the same size bearing ball now,, with a orbe it does not have the drive groves like the gyro ,, everything will work with some adjustment if you are going the orbe-se-r way you will have to put the motor pod on a block of wood or rubber to get the height unless you have a machine shop near to to make a spacer but the cost out ways the gains,, as you can see from the picture of the motor on mine ,due to the 4 spiders and a plinth i have had the base made bigger in diameter and in height ,, then added a bronze spacer to get the height ,the motor now weighs 3kg , it also looks like the tube on the motor for the orbe se-r does not have the lip , like the normal orbe,

  2. #342
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales

    Posts: 695
    I'm peter.

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    i have been asked the best way to set the gyro up,, with out any Mods ,you have to follow the Michell instructions,, i am not sure how the Cam effect works on the old style adjuster ,, on the new style the spring base acts like a cam centering the motor pod
    and tightening the belt ,, the Michell bounce i think happens when the motor pod is clear of the chassis after getting the platter level ,,with in the spec that Michell has set out in the instructions,,
    you will need to do the same with the pylons,, accept there is no lateral movement ,, just vertical,, they still should be the same height ,, if you have installed the 3 pads in the suspension ,,you may have to use the bottom drive groove in the platter to keep the height of the belt in the correct position ,, that is all,, or add a rubber pad to the base of the motor ,,the same as above ,,
    in doing the pylons no one has said if the o-rings supplied have been too short ,or too long ,,

    keep well
    pete

  3. #343
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: North East

    Posts: 12,011
    I'm Alan.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gwernaffield View Post
    i have been asked the best way to set the gyro up,, with out any Mods ,you have to follow the Michell instructions,, i am not sure how the Cam effect works on the old style adjuster ,, on the new style the spring base acts like a cam centering the motor pod
    and tightening the belt ,, the Michell bounce i think happens when the motor pod is clear of the chassis after getting the platter level ,,with in the spec that Michell has set out in the instructions,,
    you will need to do the same with the pylons,, accept there is no lateral movement ,, just vertical,, they still should be the same height ,, if you have installed the 3 pads in the suspension ,,you may have to use the bottom drive groove in the platter to keep the height of the belt in the correct position ,, that is all,, or add a rubber pad to the base of the motor ,,the same as above ,,
    in doing the pylons no one has said if the o-rings supplied have been too short ,or too long ,,

    keep well
    pete
    The o-rings are the perfect length Peter...
    'ANDSOME IN THE SUMMER..'ORIBBLE IN THE WINTER. Barney Milne

    Cambridge Audio CXN, Seagate nas drive, Michell Gyrodec SE, SME309, Benz M2 Ruby cantilever, Denon DL103, Primare R32, Densen D20, Densen D30, Cambridge Audio 840A V2 integrated, Pioneer SX-N30AE Network Stereo Receiver, Roksan Darius speakers, Technics speakers, Canon speakers, Bastanis Dragonfly Horns, REL Storm III sub, Target R1 speaker stands, Atacama Equinox.

  4. #344
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales

    Posts: 695
    I'm peter.

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    Thanks Alan for letting me know,, all the best pete

  5. #345
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales

    Posts: 695
    I'm peter.

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    with regards to the orbe se-r ,, i think i have been led down the garden path by Michell with regards to the bearing ball being used ,, i have been contacted by a Orbe Se R who says it is just the std ball,, or possibly a tungsten ball,, the information i was given By Michell was it was a ceramic bearing ,,The gentleman has now fitted a set of Pete's pylons and is happy with the out come,, on his ORBE SE-R ,, i hope he will do a review /feedback later on in the week which i will publish ,, in the mean time, i am sending 5 sets out that are one size fits all for test ,,so i can get them made

    until that is sorted these are still a custom fit will be made and the holes in the chassis will need to be measured ,,

    just had an email with regards to the bearing ball in the orbe se-r ,, they now say the std ball is fitted ,, due to the static they were getting when the ceramic beraing was fitted,,to the orbe se -r ,, i have to say i am not surprised that michell have changed their minds, with the cost being higher on the ceramic ,, and the different size holes,,

    pete
    Last edited by gwernaffield; 29-04-2019 at 10:52.

  6. #346
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales

    Posts: 695
    I'm peter.

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    Hi Peter.
    Here’s a brief email about my recent turntable changes and tweaks.

    Please bear with me as I’m not a big “audiophile speak” person.

    Last year my turntable from a gyro se to an Orbe SE-r. .
    The change was obviously immense.
    Then I changed the pylons for the solidair ones. I was instantly impressed. Bass was bigger, more thwack, soundstage wider and deeper.
    Then I got new hifi racks so I could run both turntables side by side.

    While the Orbe is a bigger more powerful sound I always loved the speed and fun of the gyro.
    I decided to upgrade the pylons on the gyro because of the improvements I got when I did on the Orbe.
    I’ve always loved handmade/artisan or bespoke products, when I saw you making pylons I thought I’d give them a try.
    To be honest I was put off when I had to measure the hole sizes…. Not only could I not use a ruler I had to borrow a bloody engineering tool. ����
    Anyway…. I did and they arrived. Spot on fit.

    Now here the thing… the changes in the gyro were huge. Far bigger than I got on the Orbe.
    Before the sound between the two was always black and white. As it should be the Orbe and it’s bits being about 4-5times the cost.
    When I put your pylons on it narrowed the gap by a lot…. So much so I was pxxxxd off that they weren’t as night/day now… the Orbe was still far better but the huge gap between the two had gone.
    I decided to order another set of yours and see what would happen.
    All I can tell you is the difference between the solidair ones and yours is massive.
    Everything again is bigger wider deeper, more snap on bass notes.
    The gap between the 2 turntables has been restored. It’s back to night/day…. It has to be your pylons… 100%.
    I’m so pleased with them… you definitely know your stuff and I’d consider them an essential part of any Michell turntable.
    I’m not going to rubbish the solidair ones, I was pleased with what they did, BUT…. I have to say yours blow them out of the xxxxxxxx water..

    Thanks again.
    Kind regards Gary. Orbe se-r owner ,,,,

    Custom Version made to measure
    Last edited by gwernaffield; 29-04-2019 at 10:52.

  7. #347
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: North East

    Posts: 12,011
    I'm Alan.

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    Excellent Gary...I'm pleased you are enjoying both of your turntables, the way they should sound..These pylons are certainly a marvelous piece of kit..happy listening...Al..
    'ANDSOME IN THE SUMMER..'ORIBBLE IN THE WINTER. Barney Milne

    Cambridge Audio CXN, Seagate nas drive, Michell Gyrodec SE, SME309, Benz M2 Ruby cantilever, Denon DL103, Primare R32, Densen D20, Densen D30, Cambridge Audio 840A V2 integrated, Pioneer SX-N30AE Network Stereo Receiver, Roksan Darius speakers, Technics speakers, Canon speakers, Bastanis Dragonfly Horns, REL Storm III sub, Target R1 speaker stands, Atacama Equinox.

  8. #348
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 99,005
    I'm Grant.

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    i think this should be taken to pm...thanks
    Regards,
    Grant .... ؠ ......Don't be such a big girl's blouse

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  9. #349
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales

    Posts: 695
    I'm peter.

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    i recently had a question on static ,which i asked Jonathan Nye about he suggested to use a continuity tester and check the earths,,, make sure all the earths were in contact with the Chassis , the arm board /arm and bearing spindle,, i had removed the paint under the chassis where the screw comes through ,, this gave a better earth contact ,,,because the paint was acting like an insulator,, then checked the Arm board earth to the spindle,,, with a ceramic bearing fitted ,, to make sure the earth loop was completed ,,,it was,, so no problems with the earths to the phono stage and out down to the Russ Andrews Rf block and out to the earth in the house,, i then checked the TransRotor sweep arm that has an earth ,i was in for a surprise,, although the body was earthed the arm it self was not ,, i think this was due to the clear coat that was on the sweep arm, or the hole it sat in having some thing left in the hole after production,, i had to drill the hole deeper ,, Tap the hole under the top of the balance part of the arm , this now is earthed,, so no problems with static ,, even with the ceramic bearing ,,
    pete

  10. #350
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,779
    I'm Martin.

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    I'm sure posterity will be fascinated.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

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