Cheap upgrade for michell gyro

[gwernaffield]

the max weight on the arm side is 1.1kg , including arm and board , it is weighted under the chassis to the front and to the motor side, all i did was add to what was there, in the webs , to every part of the chassis not to upset the balance for the arm
pete

[mad-moon]

I've found the best way, albeit long and drawn out, taking days, is to suck it and see. Trial and error. I try not to take much notice of measurements with testing equipment. The best thing you can use is your ears and tune your tt to your ears, what's best for your personal listening experience. I have just fitted three rubber mounts under the acrylic ring, which has worked wonders. My best listening exoerience to date. There is still a bit Microphony from the chassis, but nowhere near to what it was, but I have virtually no surface noise from the record, at sensible listening levels, even between tracks...I've changed the granite isloation platform for 10mm thick toughened glass..supported on half squash balls, filled with silicone and lead shot..which will shortly be replaced with Vibrapods. My pal Vince is using them and I was there today listening to his rig and it is outstanding.. The Vibrapods are the best isolation feet I have heard to date, without having to spend an absolute fortune..and at just under 22 quid a set are brilliant. If you decide to try these, You'll need to check out the weight of your gear, as there's 4 or 5 different models

[Pegwill]

Hi Guys

Well I had a play around today. Added some dampening around the arm pillar and the same on the motor side. I intended to add a thin layer under the lead, but I couldn’t seem to get it free. It seemed to be stuck on so I left it.

One thing I did notice is that when I put the pylons back in place they made a clunking sound as they made contact with the acrylic base. I happened to have some ptfe washers, not the exact size, but big enough to go 3/4 of the way round so I cut them and spread them out to fit. Then when I refitted the pylons to the post they are supported off the acrilic base by the washers reducing the clunking sound.
Does it help, not sure but it is only using the bearing at the top of the post and the ptfe washer at the bottom providing further decoupling which can only help.

[gwernaffield]

there should be 3 felt washers under pylons, the same as what came with the michell, i have replaced them with 3 sorbothane ones on my deck 22mm diameter with a 10mm hole x 3mm ,

[Pegwill]

Hi Peter

Yep I’ve got the felt rings but the pylons go straight through because the inside diameter is to big. The ptfe ones I using at present the pylon actually sits on it rather than passing through it and sitting on the acrilyc .

[gwernaffield]

Hi Bill can you send me a picture please i am a bit confused, the plyon sits into the chassis , not out , it should be flush well near enough with the under side of the chassis, can you send a pick to my email address, peter

[gwernaffield]

This is fitted wrong , it should be flush

[gwernaffield]

when fitted the o rings should just be above the felt washer , the only way you would get a 'Clunk 'is if you are pushing very hard on platter for the lp to sit pushing the o ring down onto the acrylic , the picture above show one pylon in a set of 3 that was not fitted properly due to the hole being smaller , it was an easy fix took 10minutes with a nail file and then the pylon fitted correctly ,

[mad-moon]

Hi Peter

Yep I’ve got the felt rings but the pylons go straight through because the inside diameter is to big. The ptfe ones I using at present the pylon actually sits on it rather than passing through it and sitting on the acrilyc .

The adjsuter tube through the centre of the pylon, is supposed to pass throught the felt washher, it doesn't sit on the acrylic spider...it will only go as low as the bearing allows it..and sits above the spider....The base itself fits inside the bottom hole cutout..and the upper step fits in the smaller hole higher up the base recess...if it's not going in, try rotating the pylons, till you get them all to fit...if they don't all fit....you will have to do a little bit of adjustment...which just means taking a very small amount from the diameter of the base...and or the step...with an emery board...or some wet and dry sand paper...just doing a bit at a time, till you get the three pylons to fit snugly in the bottom holes..with just the 0-rings visible maybe protruding approx 2mm below the lowest part of the chassis....The reason this sometimes happens, is the Michell Gyrodec turntables have a cast chassis...and can be slightly out on the positioning of the holes on the Chassis..It may only be by mm's or even just points of mm's..and Peter has designed these to very tight paramateres, to stop all movement in the deck, so we the owners can get the very best from our turntables..and boy does it work...My deck was ever so slightly out and Peter made a set for me...my measurement was ever so slightly out, so I took a piece of wet and dry paper and just took a small amount from the diameters of them, till I got them to fit nice and snug...the result is outstanding...

[AJSki2fly]

Very good explanation Mr Moon. I had exactly the same issue. I confirmed the inaccuracy in the hole positions by accurately measuring the centres of the holes in the chassis which should be an exact equilateral triangle(each side the same length). This is not easy to do, you need the exact hole diameter and then measure from hole to hole edge and then add the diameter. Mine were just over 1mm out on one side.

As you say I took a nail file emery board an filed away a bit at a time from the nut edge and the step side until I could see/feel enough movement. As I filed down I test fitted at least 3 times until it fitted with reasonable ease and was not sloppy fit. It took me about 30 minutes of gradual fettling and a bit of patience. It’s not hard to do.

The other thing to check is that the centres of the pylons are the same measurement as the centre of the chassis holes, because these could be slightly out as well. One of mine was as well on one side. So I rotated it to match the chassis as much as possible.

I found drawing a diagram of the chassis and the spider (you need to temporarily mark one corner) and writing down each measurement helped get it right and understand which one needed filling and by how much.

I hope this helps a bit more


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