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Thread: Cheap upgrade for michell gyro

  1. #241
    Join Date: Dec 2018

    Location: Cambridgeshire UK

    Posts: 13
    I'm William.

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    Hi AJSki2fly

    Thanks for the info. I won’t be able to check until next weekend. Like you I suspect something is amiss. I removed the rubber, so the possibility that the bearings have fallen out is a possibility, I wasn’t sure that it was making any difference. Anyway i’ll find out next week.

    Regarding the washer on top of the bearing, yes I do plan to find a thinner one, I have not detected any problem with the locking missing, yes true enough, the very edge does wobble if you touch it with your hand but when the record is playing there’s no difference that I can tell.

    I’ll let you know how I get on.

  2. #242
    Join Date: Mar 2019

    Location: Bristol, UK

    Posts: 4
    I'm Steve.

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    Hi Peter,
    I'm a new member of the forum, however, I have been following your posts on the design of the pylons with great interest.
    I own a Gyrodec (Export Model) which I purchased new in 1989.
    For some time, I have been considering up-grading the Adjuster and replacing the springs with the standard offering from Michell.
    The benefits being the two piece Adjuster, and replacing some rather tired springs, which would have provided an improvement.
    Being somewhat curious I searched the Net and noticed the Solid Air pylons, I thought they were rather expensive, and like you, felt they would offer even less lateral control than the existing spring arrangement, and then I came across your design.
    Now that you have ironed out all the problems, and gone as far as you could reasonably expect to go, I would be very interested in purchasing the 'kit' of parts you are offering.
    The only part of the 'kit' I would not be interested in is the ceramic ball for the spindle main bearing.
    Please could you provide me with price details, delivery times, and any measurements you require.

  3. #243
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: wales

    Posts: 358
    I'm peter.

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    hello Steve i have sent Pm ,
    please any one who wants me just pm me do not leave messages on here as it is not an advert , it is a thread for cheap ( affordable ) upgrades to the Gyro or Orbe,,, it is not my own personal thread it is for every one on AOS ,to add too, even how to repair the paint on the chassis would be welcome,as i have taken several chips out of mine doing the upgrades adjusting parts etc and a lot of swear words involved , so if any one know how to repair the paint with out it costing the same as Michell please
    let us all into the secret ,

  4. #244
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Seaton, Devon, UK

    Posts: 1,259
    I'm Adrian.

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    So yesterday the Skateboard Wheels arrived form China at the expensive cost of 12.50, the rubber inserts and 3mm Sorbothane had already arrived costing another 14 together.

    So initially I cut the rubber bobbins in half with a stanley knife, each half then fits in the hole in either side of the skateboard wheel. I then opened up the hole in one of the rubber bobbins using a 1/2" drill bit. You do not need to open it to much just enough so that the threaded part that you have unscrewed the foot from will screw into the rubber.

    I stripped the Gyrodec and carefully removed the metal feet and then screwed each new foot on. I then checked to see that the spider was level.

    Next I cut 3 circle of the 3mm sorbothane sheet the same size as the rubber bobbins and then affixed these in place with a small amount of super glue. The feet are then supported by sorbothane and then rubber, which makes good vibration isolation and also will stop the feet sliding around.

    Next was a simple mater to refit the pylons suspension towers and fit the chassis back, I then put it back on the shelf and fitted the platter, making sure I got it in the exact position I want it. I then carefully adjust the pylon height to ensure the bottom of the chassis was 1-2mm off the felt washers and checked the platter was perfectly level. Next was refit the cartridge and check platter speed.

    Note - I decided to remove my previously installed marble slab on sorbothane feet as I wanted to see how effective the new feet are on their own.

    So I put on and listened carefully to several of my test tracks and my conclusion is that the feet are virtually as good as using the Gyrodec with original feet sat on the marble isolation pad.So and excellent result.

    I also found a couple of free accelerometer apps for the iPhone and took some measurements. Firstly I place the iphone on the acrylic shelf and played a track that has quite a bit of bass and low end drum content. I then repeated this with the iPhone place on the platter, but I played the same music from a digital file, I also checked it was at the same volume. The results are interesting vibration in the x and y axis is virtually non-existent and in the z (up and down) there is a small amount of movement(vibration). If you compare the shelf values to the platter values and take one away from the other the vertical movement is roughly halved, so the new feet are doing their job. I wish I had taken measurements before stripping it down

    I have one further thought to improve naming even further and that is to get 3 25mm semi-circular sorbothane feet and cut them down so that they fit into the bottom hole of the skateboard wheels instead of the rubber and 3mm sorbothane pad, I am certain this will give even better results. I am in the process of coming up with a simple and cheap tool to cut the circular size of sorbothane needed, this will then be trimmed in height so that a small amount protrudes below the skateboard foot ensuring that there is enough so that the skateboard foot does not touch the shelf.





    [FONT="Arial"]
    Listening is the act of aural discrimination and dissemination of sound


    Michel GyroDec (slightly modified), SME IV arm(special build virtually a V), Michel Cusis MC cartridge, Furutech AG-12-R4 High Performance Phono Cable, LFD MMC special phono stage, RaspberryPi/HifiBerry Digi to Beresford Caiman SEG DAC, Meridian 508 CD to Caiman SEG, ALLNIC T1500 MKII SET 300B amp, Vienna Acoustics Mozart SE speakers, Chord Epic speaker leads, & signature links, the Eccose Conductor CA1 cd to pre

  5. #245
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: wales

    Posts: 358
    I'm peter.

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    looking good ,

  6. #246
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Seaton, Devon, UK

    Posts: 1,259
    I'm Adrian.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gwernaffield View Post
    looking good ,
    Thanks Pete, still a few things to do, more arm board isolatio, waiting for rubber bushes, rubber to support the motor inside, and try out and test my mod for the new feet, and fit the sorbothane discs on the pylons.

    It seems never ending, but each little change seems to make a difference and so far its getting better, a bit change from the original sound. IMO opinion the biggest change has been due to your lovely pylon suspension and then the replacement of the metal feet.
    [FONT="Arial"]
    Listening is the act of aural discrimination and dissemination of sound


    Michel GyroDec (slightly modified), SME IV arm(special build virtually a V), Michel Cusis MC cartridge, Furutech AG-12-R4 High Performance Phono Cable, LFD MMC special phono stage, RaspberryPi/HifiBerry Digi to Beresford Caiman SEG DAC, Meridian 508 CD to Caiman SEG, ALLNIC T1500 MKII SET 300B amp, Vienna Acoustics Mozart SE speakers, Chord Epic speaker leads, & signature links, the Eccose Conductor CA1 cd to pre

  7. #247
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: North East

    Posts: 4,159
    I'm Alan.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AJSki2fly View Post
    Thanks Pete, still a few things to do, more arm board isolatio, waiting for rubber bushes, rubber to support the motor inside, and try out and test my mod for the new feet, and fit the sorbothane discs on the pylons.

    It seems never ending, but each little change seems to make a difference and so far its getting better, a bit change from the original sound. IMO opinion the biggest change has been due to your lovely pylon suspension and then the replacement of the metal feet.
    Looking at your toneam..it looks to have the same issue as mine...it's flying in space....another inexpensive tweak, which takes little effort...is to put the rubber mounts under your acrylic spacer....which will allow you to bring your arm right down into the clamp...it has made a huge differencce with mine regards record surface noise...If you don't fancy the mounts, you could always put the three delrin posts back in..under the acrylic spacer/mount....

    [IMG]MOUNTS DISC by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]
    'ANSOM IN THE SUMMER..'ORIBBLE IN THE WINTER

    Cambridge Audio CXN, Seagate nas drive, Michell Gyrodec SE, SME309, Denon DL103, Primare R32, Sugden Headmaster headphone/pre-amp, Class D power amp, Roksan Darius speakers, REL Storm III, Target R4 speaker stands, Atacama Equinox.

  8. #248
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Seaton, Devon, UK

    Posts: 1,259
    I'm Adrian.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mad-moon View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by AJSki2fly View Post
    Thanks Pete, still a few things to do, more arm board isolatio, waiting for rubber bushes, rubber to support the motor inside, and try out and test my mod for the new feet, and fit the sorbothane discs on the pylons.

    Looking at your toneam..it looks to have the same issue as mine...it's flying in space....another inexpensive tweak, which takes little effort...is to put the rubber mounts under your acrylic spacer....which will allow you to bring your arm right down into the clamp...it has made a huge differencce with mine regards record surface noise...If you don't fancy the mounts, you could always put the three delrin posts back in..under the acrylic spacer/mount....

    [IMG]MOUNTS DISC by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]
    I have been waiting to do this after addressing the TT isolation as much as I believe is possible, then will fit the rubber bushes under the acrylic arm spacer mounting plate so that I can then know what difference the rubbers make. I like to make incremental changes.

    By the way my understanding is that how the arm is fixed to a TT can have quite a dramatic impact on how it all sounds. Arms I believe are mainly designed to take vibration away from the head shell/cartridge, so if you mount it in a way that effects this it could have a positive or negative affect. Some arms I believe actually need to be mounted rigidly to the TT chassis, if you look at an SME TT with SME arm it is mounted rock solid, but then the SME chassis is a dirty great big heavy lump of laminated steel and aluminium designed to not vibrate. Unfortunately this is not the case with the Gyrodec or Orbe chassis so we are effectively trying to limit any vibration transmission into the arm mount, how good any change in mounting will be and what affect it may have on the arm I am not clear about in my mind. So for me I think I will have to rely on what I hear.
    Last edited by AJSki2fly; 14-03-2019 at 16:33.
    [FONT="Arial"]
    Listening is the act of aural discrimination and dissemination of sound


    Michel GyroDec (slightly modified), SME IV arm(special build virtually a V), Michel Cusis MC cartridge, Furutech AG-12-R4 High Performance Phono Cable, LFD MMC special phono stage, RaspberryPi/HifiBerry Digi to Beresford Caiman SEG DAC, Meridian 508 CD to Caiman SEG, ALLNIC T1500 MKII SET 300B amp, Vienna Acoustics Mozart SE speakers, Chord Epic speaker leads, & signature links, the Eccose Conductor CA1 cd to pre

  9. #249
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: wales

    Posts: 358
    I'm peter.

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    just bought the doughnut seals, now called Motor Supports , which will need to be cut to fit the tube, and add a bit of silicone grease to help them fit into the motor tube after cutting to make them fit the motor pod the motor will sit in the lip
    in the base of the Motor Support it will be a tight fit , used on DC motor , as i do not have a AC one i am concerned that they may give off heat ,
    pete

  10. #250
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: Montreal, Canada

    Posts: 72
    I'm TAD.

    Default

    hi there Pete, do you remember the damping material for the headshell/arm contact area, which we discussed. Have you ever thought of making stacking washers out of this material for the armboard to replace the rubber ones. I would like to try this out. Am I wasting my time???
    Kind regards,
    Tadeusz.

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