Nice work, Mark - looks very professional. Good luck with it!
Marco.
Nice work, Mark - looks very professional. Good luck with it!
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!
Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!
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Thanks Marco, the lighting in the pics is not the best (taken in Andrew's office I think). To be honest, it's been like giving birth to a reluctant child (umm..I imagine). Still, at least I've had the benefit of having complete control over all aspects , as I designed all the logo's, the box, wrote the instructions, designed the accessories and, oh yes, the actual RubiKon chassis itself . (not including fabricating the prototypes).
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At long last the Rega arm mount version of the RubiKon is in production.
The same armboard allows fitting of both the older, single hole, style Rega mount and the newer, three holed outrigger, mount. As supplied the armboard is ready to fit the older style arm; if th newer mount is wanted, all you have to do is complete drilling the three 4mm holes - these holes are already part machined through on the back of the board, all that you have to do is drill through the final 1mm of aluminium (with a sharp drill) - very easy and guaranteed alignment.
The diagrams below show how to use the suppled arm mounting collar with both the newer Rega arm mount and the older Rega mount. The collar is made in such a way that it maximises contact pressure and applies it in a controlled manner.
If the newer mount is used then the three M4 screws (supplied), pass through the holes in the armboard and screw into the arm mounting collar. If the older older style of arm is used, then the aluminium arm collar is still used but the large arm mounting nut is tightened against it. It is important that the correct face of the arm mounting collar makes contact with the underside of the armboard.
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Very Clever
Well done..
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Hi Andre, many thanks . I'm quite pleased with the solution - it will certainly give a much better result than messing about with nuts and washers and will make the Rega easy to fit. Using just one board also means that if people change from an older fit arm (like an RB250) to one of the newer Rega arms, they won't have to buy a new armboard.
I've got another little Rega fit bit up my sleeve too .
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I have been asked to clarify the design of the arm mounting collar described above; I hope the below diagram makes it clear.
NOTE: The top picture shows the surface that makes contact with the underside of the armboard.
The lower picture shows the collar turned upside down and shows the underside.
Last edited by YNWaN; 16-11-2011 at 02:24.
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