Heybrook TT2 sub platter issue?

[bobbob]

Have taken the back off and all the springs were disconnected from the bolts but that may have been me trying to adjust them last night. One spring was definitely out of alignment.

I have just reconnected all the bolts lining up the original red paint marks on the springs and it now seems ok although I am unsure what the clearance between the platter and plinth should be.

I don't have an original manual but I've just downloaded a PDF. Thank god for the internet.

The platter is now floating as it should be and there is no wobble plus its running totally silent so the motor seems in good order. What oil should be used on the sub platter spindle as i think its been off and on a few times and seems to act like a piston so may need a little topping up?

Thanks for all your help.

Is this worth it?
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jelco-SA-750...%257Ciid%253A1

[DSJR]

Subject to more authorised experience, I'd say EP80 or chainsaw oil should be fine for the main bearing as the sleeve is brass as are Regas and there should be little risk of fouling sintered bushings as the TT2 doesn't use them from memory. The chainsaw oil idea comes from the Vinyl Engine Dual forum, where the rather wonderful Renotac oil Dual used in their bearings is no longer available unless you buy a barrel-ful. The chainsaw oil seems to be the same reddish hue and feels similarly tacky by all accounts and appears to do exactly the same job.

I'd set the platter at around 1/8" to 1/4" above the top plate. Turn the outer platter upside down, replace on the bub, start up and watch what the belt is doing when running. It should run pretty centrally on the motor pulley from memory (LP12 pulleys and belts are slightly different here and the LP12 pulley is lightly tapered around the running ridge to allow for fine speed adjustment).

[shane]

That all makes sense, although again, you won't be able to set the platter height without an arm. Once the arm is in place, the top of the arm board should be level with the side of the plinth. Everything else will then be correct if the plinth and platter are both level.

Never tried the Jelco myself, but there's a lot of love for it round here and it's reported to be a good match for the TT2, especially for cartridges like the Denon 103 that like a bit of mass. It's also beautifully made, and would bolt straight on to your Linn fit arm board. Not sure how much they are new so I can't comment on the price of the one in your link but it looks to be in good nick on a cursory viewing. FWIW, I use a Mission 774 with mine. What cartridge are you thinking of using? Come to that, what's the rest of the system, and what are your musical tastes?

Oh yes, oil. A light machine oil as used for sewing machines and such like is best. I wouldn't use motor or gearbox oil because of the additives, and definitely not 3 in 1! Don't overfill it, otherwise it'll take hours for the platter to settle and the oil will end up all over the chassis and base!

[DSJR]

I can't remember what oil was used originally, although someone either here or on the WAD forum actually either designed the thing, or built a goodly few of them for a while - I can't bloody remember.

Back in the day, the Rega RB arms sounded better on this deck than the scrappy in comparison LVX/Basik Plus, so please don't discount one of the superior current models, as Rega have worked darned hard on them I understand (NK has measured the improvements), the details making a positive audible difference and the three-screw fixing probably working even better with wooden mounting boards for all I know.

I'm not ignoring the Jelco either and rather wish I'd got the TD125 back now (my Dual 701 motor electronics aren't reliable any more sadly) as I was intending to try a 10" Jelco 750 when funds permitted - effin' money!!!!!

[bobbob]

Regarding arms if the pivot is at the centre of the fixing hole then the spindle to pivot length is approx 212mm the hole is approx 31mm with six smaller holes around it.

Ideally I'm after something I can just drop in. Would the RBs or Missions fit the bill?

More info on the TT, it's an an early one as it has the iron subframe. Serial number 476. Could this be one of yours Shane?

Cartridge may be a Denon dl103. It'll be going through an A&R A60 and using a pair of Heybrook HB2's to mostly play rock and (some) electronica.

Thanks for all this excellent info!

[shane]

someone either here or on the WAD forum actually either designed the thing, or built a goodly few of them for a while - I can't bloody remember.

Pay attention at the back there!

Bob, the arm board you have is cut for Linn arms, and will not fit Rega or SME pattern arms. It's not hard to make a replacement board, but if you're thinking of using the Jelco, that has the Linn pattern mount and will drop straight on without modification. It would also be an excellent match for the Denon (far better than any Linn arm), so I'd probably go for that in your position.

With the A60 and the HB2s you'll have a nice well balanced system. It's not ideal for heavy metal at mind bending levels, but for old prog rockers like me it would extract the atmosphere beautifully. Does your A60 have a moving coil preamp fitted? You'll need one for the Denon. If not I may be able to help you with that. One thing to bear in mind, your A60 will be at least 30 years old by now and would benefit from a good service, including replacing the reservoir capacitors.

[karma67]

bob i may have a board i made for my heybrook when i bought it,let me know if you'd like it,it will need staining black or painted though as its plywood.

[bobbob]

Argh you're right, there's no moving coil preamp. What can I do about that?

Is there anyone you would recommend to service the A60?

Jamie, thanks for the offer that would be great. I'll PM you.

Thanks again all!

[shane]

Do you know the serial number of your A60? I have an A&R MC60 moving coil module and the associated cartridge loading module which can be fitted to any A60 after s/no 13250 knocking around somewhere. I'd be happy to come to a suitable arrangement. Dead easy to fit, just unplug a jumper inside thevA60 and plug in the module.


Living a I do in Darkest Devon I'm not sure who to recommend for servicing. The only bloke I know and trust in the south-east is John Caswell in Wokingham. A quick google search will find his contact details.

[bobbob]

Serial is 12729.

From the manual it seems I need an A&R HA10. Turning into an expensive hobby already

Thanks for John's name.