http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...MM-phono-stage
Should be available before long and ticks all the boxes. It will be available as a line level pre, a full function pre with MM phono stage and as a stand alone phono stage. It is customisable for any requirements a customer may have. The line section is valved and has a gain of 3. The demo version when it is available will be a full function pre amp so people can try it in that form or use only the line stage. It should be about a month before it can be auditioned.
One of the features available will be buffered tape outputs BTW, available in either valve or SS form...
The basic version of the line only pre will be about £800 but the sky's the limit in that the basic version (unfortunately the only version you will be able to audition) will be supplied with parts of a quality that, well, whilst adequate, and on a par with those used by competitors, allows me to do it for £800.... It can be supplied with things like Z Foil resistors, silver foil in oil caps, switched attenuator instead of vol control etc etc.
Last edited by Arkless Electronics; 24-11-2016 at 14:42.
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
Location: North Island New Zealand
Posts: 1,757
I'm Chris.
A study as I suggested earlier of your power amp, might have been a bit more constructive than the comment you replied to me with, and your comments
above, aimed at persons on the forum who have correctly worked out - unlike you, important impedance issues in their audio systems.
It can be seen with the Radford schematic that it has a 100k potentiometer sitting on its input. So you are already using a passive built in to the Radford, but it is
not available externally for adjustment. Passives in series are not a good idea at all, no wonder you are needing unnecessary active preamps
My advice would be to set a sensible resistance like 100k at the input of the Radford replacing R1 100k variable, simply as a fixed good quality resistor for each amp, then reassess all the available options of preamp
The coloration of actives vs passives with far less coloration, may then become far more apparent to you.
RadfordSTA100.jpg
Possible SS contender?
http://www.hifi-forsale.co.uk/mobile....php?pid=39789
It's on the Wigwam too.
http://hifiwigwam.com/forum/topic/12...pre-amplifier/
Not what you would call an aesthetic match for the Radford mind you.
“Music has always been a matter of energy to me, a question of fuel. Sentimental people call it inspiration, but what they really mean is fuel. I have always needed fuel. I am a serious consumer. On some nights I still believe that a car with the gas needle on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio”
Hunter S Thompson
Shame to see this thread hijacked by people who collectively seem to have passives as a bit of a religion, or indeed as a business. I made it quite clear in the very first post that passive suggestions were unwelcome based on my experience and taste - experience and taste that is at least as valid as anyone here. I was hoping for helpful input and thankfully I have had some both on the thread but mainly via email which I'm grateful and thankful for.
As for the unhelpful, unsolicited and frankly (and explicity) unwanted input -you come on here, repeatedly tell me I'm wrong and wonder why I'm pissed off?
I stand by my opinion of passives. You may disagree. But it's based on very extensive experience as a music student, professional musician, music lover, and 40 year hifi owner. If you arrogantly come on here and tell me I'm wrong then I'm well within my rights to tell you I think you are both clueless are deaf. I'd have a smile on my face when I said it (when first stated it was intended to be funny) but to be honest that smile has worn thin.
Oh and I have no intention of buggering about with the Radford. Arthur Radford knew what he was doing, the amp was designed to operate with an active preamp and that's what I will do. I've played with LDR preamps into other power amps directly (no attenuation in between) and my conclusions were the same as with any other passive - it just doesn't satisfy the ear. I recently sold a retail £6000 EAR 899 which has a passive preamp section - compared to power amp configuration and input from the Modwright, I far preferred the musicality using the Modwright. In fact it wasn't even close. And you really WOULD have to be clueless and deaf not to hear it.
Last edited by montesquieu; 24-11-2016 at 22:47.
Location: London/Durham
Posts: 6,894
I'm Lawrence.
That Chord ticks a few boxes and it's a design statement.
Location: North Island New Zealand
Posts: 1,757
I'm Chris.
Yes it is good to see you are still enjoying your passive attenuator R1 internally in your Radford. A many decades old potentiometer, which is electrically a L Pad passive,
It would take 30 minutes to improve as a fixed shunt resistor of 100k. Every preamp then you try, will be far better. Just trying to help you.