You could always use a Formica cased amp to drive them. Rogers HG88?
You could always use a Formica cased amp to drive them. Rogers HG88?
It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!
I have read that if you scrub the area with warm, soapy water, this may be enough to remove the stain.
Applying an ammonia-based household cleaner with a spray bottle or dry cloth should remove stubborn water-based paints. Rinse the area with water after..
not tried it but may be worth a go on say the underside and see if it is quicker.
Regards,
Grant .... ؠ ......Don't be such a big girl's blouse
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Oh my god! There's nothing wrong with the bidet is there?
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“You see these dictators on their pedestals, surrounded by the bayonets of their soldiers and the truncheons of their police ... yet in their hearts there is unspoken fear. They are afraid of words and thoughts: words spoken abroad, thoughts stirring at home -- all the more powerful because forbidden -- terrify them. A little mouse of thought appears in the room, and even the mightiest potentates are thrown into panic.”
"You don't have free will. You have the appearance of free will.”
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Don't make any decisions on amplifiers etc until you have the drivers fixed - is my advice.
Looks like the original finish is pretty good. Not sure what you can do about the missing chunks of formica. Maybe some sort of resin fill?
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
Ultrafide U500DC power amplifier - Croft Vitale )highly modified) - TRIO L-07D Turntable - Denon DL103C1 - Funk Firm Houdini - Lentek MC head amp - 15" Tannoy Monitor Gold Loudspeakers in Lockwood Major cabinets (From Trident Studios) - Tannoyista SPEC 3 Custom Crossovers - VanDamme Black Speaker Cable
Tannoyista.com - Audio Equipment Reviews
John,
Youll find the Lockwoods to be a labour of love but when you get them sorted you'll be glad of the effort.
SS
CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10
VALVE
PRE Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker
Well they are but the 12" MG's do sound slightly more dynamic even so, quicker transients. Bass is bloody good with 12" MG's too if you get them in the correct enclosures with a sorted (correctly updated) crossover. The 15" drivers are better in regards to bass and scale but the 12" ones are no slouch I can tell you that for sure and worth more than the asking in comparison to 15" drivers.
The 10" MG's... well, not good IMO.
Ultrafide U500DC power amplifier - Croft Vitale )highly modified) - TRIO L-07D Turntable - Denon DL103C1 - Funk Firm Houdini - Lentek MC head amp - 15" Tannoy Monitor Gold Loudspeakers in Lockwood Major cabinets (From Trident Studios) - Tannoyista SPEC 3 Custom Crossovers - VanDamme Black Speaker Cable
Tannoyista.com - Audio Equipment Reviews
It's great to get the benefit of all your experience folks, I've taken it onboard and the updated plan is to strip the paint over the coming weeks, as time permits, and stick with the Formica rather than ditching it for veneer. Probably get them reconed but I haven't completely ruled out doing the surrounds myself, I'll do some more research. I'll check the components on the crossovers and replace anything that looks or reads dodgy with original value components. I might return to the crossovers down the line once I'm used to the speakers and I'll do nothing regarding my amp until everything is settled in.
You really do need to have those reconed at the minimum. I always advise a recone rather than refoam because (as most people forget) the suspensions on those will be well past their best by now. I get a lot of Tannoys in for fettling and all without exception have lowered Fs readings due to soggy suspension. Ignore earlier comments about worries of pleated or "wrong" surrounds...that's nonsense. Lockwood Audio supply the correct cone, suspension and Tannoplas foam type surrounds for HPDs to restore these to the correct T&S parameters with the benefit that the new voicecoil insulation has a higher power rating than the originals. It's all good.
Crossovers will more than likely want removing, taken apart, switches cleaned some joints possibly re-flowing, and ideally, capacitors changed for better quality new ones. It makes a positive difference, trust me. The output wiring is usually made up of 3 core ligting flex (fitted from the factory) to the original 4 pin plugs. The wiring is non-ofc and non-tinned to tends to corrode at the 4 pin plug end. best thing is to replace it with inexpensive OFC or tinned wiring and best place for the original plugs is in the bin. Mark Pitcher or myself can supply new manufacture gold plated sprung 4-pin plugs for these. Best of luck with them.
Thanks Paul, appreciate the advice and offer - I'll be in touch in due course regarding the crossovers.
Tbh, I'm thinking of taking the drivers to Tannoy at Coatbridge for a recone. In fairness they gave me Lockwoods details, who I've spoken to as well and were very helpful too but Glasgow is closer and I'm thinking of driving over with them rather than posting as I don't trust them to get there or to London and back in one piece.
I've got the tops of both speakers nearly stripped of paint but Rexton was right, labour of love. Tried different cleaners etc but no avail. Hair drier definitely helped with the really stubborn bits but the heat is causing the Formica to lift at the edges. Right royal pain. Stickability is not one of my strong points but I'll plod on though because they are fantastic!
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