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Thread: Garage Conversion

  1. #21
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 14,590
    I'm Steve.

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    Quote Originally Posted by take5 View Post
    Interesting thread.

    Ive been thinking about trying to do something similar.

    With no prior knowledge or experience, I thought of building a breeze block room, straight off the concrete floor.

    I would want it as sound proof as possible but my worries were noise escaping through the roof of this new room and through the door into it.

    Any thoughts on how to overcome the noise "bleed" problem.
    A fire door will help quite a bit with the soundproofing. If the door connects the garage to the house it will probably be a building regs requirement anyway. I also think that keeping the concrete floor as opposed to having a suspended floor, would be better too. Screed the concrete, then tile or lay some form of hard flooring, and/or rugs/carpeting to fine tune the acoustics.
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

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  2. #22
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 14,590
    I'm Steve.

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    Quote Originally Posted by glenann View Post
    So after three years, I'm resurrecting this thread! The garage room is not only back on, but will be starting this weekend! I've only really waited about thirty years for this, so I'm stoked. The problem is, the more I read the more I get confused about what I need to do. The garage is a single brick construction on a concrete pad. It's completely detached from the house. The volume levels I listen at are usually no more than 85ish dB or thereabouts, more often than not it'll be lower than that.
    I'm hoping that the length of the internal room will be about 16.5' x only 9' by about 7 ' 2" high, so not brilliant dimensions. The width of the room is my main problem, but I can't do anything about that. Room absorbers, bass traps and diffusers will be used throughout (diy). As with most garages the floor rums off toward the door.
    Following is my plan of action up to now, but as above, any advice would be most welcome...

    So I'm aiming for the room within a room principle 2" x 4" Studs with rubber resilient strips (10mm thick x 100mm wide) on the top and bottom sections of the studs, which will all be set 10mm or so from the garage walls. Metal Resilient channels mounted directly to the roof joists and plasterboard attached to those. Breathable membrane will form the back of the studs with walls and ceiling having RW3 Rock Wool insulation and 15mm Acoustic plasterboard attached. 5mm gaps all around sealed with Acoustic sealant. There will be only one door into the place and so I'm thinking of the heaviest door I can find (maybe a fire door? I'm not sure). The floor will be 2" x 4" joists, lessening to 2" x 2" at the other to compensate for the slope. 50mm Celotex insulation and topped with 22mm chipboard.
    For breathing, which was mentioned earlier and I'm sure you'll agree a necessary requirement, I'm thinking of an Axia (or some such) heat recovery unit.

    Am I way off the mark here, will it be a pig and just not work, are there much better options? If so then please let me know before I start. We're surrounded by other houses and it's pretty quiet at night round here and I will listen late into the evening...

    One other question I'm totally unsure about is, should I construct the floor and ceiling first then build the stud walls on top of the chipboard and fastened to the ceiling plasterboard (using the rubber strips)? Or screw the stud directly, well through the rubber resilient strips, to the concrete slab? Then attach it to the ceiling joists, again through the rubber strips? I know there is much written about this subject, but I'm reading conflicting theories as is always the case. If you can offer any thoughts then please do..

    Thanks all
    The length of the room needn't be a problem - partition about 2 metres and install a little kitchen and bog. Then you need never leave!
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: Zu Omen Def, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Amptastic Mini One,Arcam A75 integrated, Celestion 5's, BK XLS-200 DF

    A/V:
    LG 55" OLED, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL Storm sub

    Forget the past, it's gone. And don't worry about the future, it doesn't exist. There is only NOW.

    KICKSTARTER: ENABLING SCAMMERS SINCE 2009

  3. #23
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,778
    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pigmy Pony View Post
    . I also think that keeping the concrete floor as opposed to having a suspended floor, would be better too. Screed the concrete, then tile or lay some form of hard flooring, and/or rugs/carpeting to fine tune the acoustics.
    Good advice. Especially if you are putting a turntable in there.
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    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  4. #24
    Join Date: Apr 2008

    Location: Warrington

    Posts: 3,451
    I'm Neil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    Good advice. Especially if you are putting a turntable in there.
    +1

    I have a suspended wooden floor, so have ended up decoupling everything, which I didn’t need to do in my old concrete-floored house.
    Mana Acoustics Racks / Bright Star IsoNodes Decoupling >> Allo DigiOne Player >> Pedja Rogic's Audial Model S DAC + Pioneer PL-71 turntable / Vista Audio phono-1 mk II / Denon PCL-5 headshell / Reson Reca >> LFD DLS >> LFD PA2M (SE) >> Royd RR3s.

  5. #25
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Manchester, UK

    Posts: 266
    I'm Simon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by glenann View Post
    So after three years, I'm resurrecting this thread! The garage room is not only back on, but will be starting this weekend! I've only really waited about thirty years for this, so I'm stoked. The problem is, the more I read the more I get confused about what I need to do. The garage is a single brick construction on a concrete pad. It's completely detached from the house. The volume levels I listen at are usually no more than 85ish dB or thereabouts, more often than not it'll be lower than that.
    I'm hoping that the length of the internal room will be about 16.5' x only 9' by about 7 ' 2" high, so not brilliant dimensions. The width of the room is my main problem, but I can't do anything about that. Room absorbers, bass traps and diffusers will be used throughout (diy). As with most garages the floor rums off toward the door.
    Following is my plan of action up to now, but as above, any advice would be most welcome...

    So I'm aiming for the room within a room principle 2" x 4" Studs with rubber resilient strips (10mm thick x 100mm wide) on the top and bottom sections of the studs, which will all be set 10mm or so from the garage walls. Metal Resilient channels mounted directly to the roof joists and plasterboard attached to those. Breathable membrane will form the back of the studs with walls and ceiling having RW3 Rock Wool insulation and 15mm Acoustic plasterboard attached. 5mm gaps all around sealed with Acoustic sealant. There will be only one door into the place and so I'm thinking of the heaviest door I can find (maybe a fire door? I'm not sure). The floor will be 2" x 4" joists, lessening to 2" x 2" at the other to compensate for the slope. 50mm Celotex insulation and topped with 22mm chipboard.
    For breathing, which was mentioned earlier and I'm sure you'll agree a necessary requirement, I'm thinking of an Axia (or some such) heat recovery unit.

    Am I way off the mark here, will it be a pig and just not work, are there much better options? If so then please let me know before I start. We're surrounded by other houses and it's pretty quiet at night round here and I will listen late into the evening...

    One other question I'm totally unsure about is, should I construct the floor and ceiling first then build the stud walls on top of the chipboard and fastened to the ceiling plasterboard (using the rubber strips)? Or screw the stud directly, well through the rubber resilient strips, to the concrete slab? Then attach it to the ceiling joists, again through the rubber strips? I know there is much written about this subject, but I'm reading conflicting theories as is always the case. If you can offer any thoughts then please do..

    Thanks all
    Does the garage have a flat or pitched roof?
    If pitched, then have the ceiling follow the pitch up to help increase ceiling height.

    Floor, could you do a concrete slab on celotex rather than chipboard on timber stud?
    If so, cast the slab with a small gap around all sides and build the walls off the slab with flexible ties to the brick wall.

    Instead of 15mm acoustic plaster on timber stud, consider: 9mm ply onto the timber stud, all joints sealed and taped, then 9.5mm plaster board over the top with staggered edges (i.e. they dont line up with plasterboard edges) all edges sealed and taped.

    Best of luck
    SJS Arcadia Line Level Pre-amplifiers, Headphone amps, MM Phono Stages and SET Power amps - service, repairs, upgrades.
    Designed and hand-built in England.

  6. #26
    Join Date: Mar 2008

    Location: South Yorkshire

    Posts: 418
    I'm Glen.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sjs View Post
    Does the garage have a flat or pitched roof?
    If pitched, then have the ceiling follow the pitch up to help increase ceiling height.

    Floor, could you do a concrete slab on celotex rather than chipboard on timber stud?
    If so, cast the slab with a small gap around all sides and build the walls off the slab with flexible ties to the brick wall.

    Instead of 15mm acoustic plaster on timber stud, consider: 9mm ply onto the timber stud, all joints sealed and taped, then 9.5mm plaster board over the top with staggered edges (i.e. they dont line up with plasterboard edges) all edges sealed and taped.

    Best of luck
    Hi Simon,

    The roof is flat unfortunately so have to live with that height restriction. I can't do the concrete slab either. I was going to fasten every floor joist directly to the slab so it should be very solid. Celotex between and 22mm chipboard on top. Will that not be solid enough? As for the ply, that sounds like a good idea. Is that much better than a single 15mm acoustic plasterboard? Does the 9.5mm plasterboard have to be acoustic stuff or is it just standard? Also would you put green glue between the ply and plasterboard?

    Thank you all for your suggestions, really is helpful!

  7. #27
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Manchester, UK

    Posts: 266
    I'm Simon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by glenann View Post
    Hi Simon,

    The roof is flat unfortunately so have to live with that height restriction. I can't do the concrete slab either. I was going to fasten every floor joist directly to the slab so it should be very solid. Celotex between and 22mm chipboard on top. Will that not be solid enough? As for the ply, that sounds like a good idea. Is that much better than a single 15mm acoustic plasterboard? Does the 9.5mm plasterboard have to be acoustic stuff or is it just standard? Also would you put green glue between the ply and plasterboard?

    Thank you all for your suggestions, really is helpful!
    Just watch cold bridging with the floor, but it should be pretty solid if joists are fastened to slab. Don't overfill voids, more like 75% of depth, same for wall fill, and consider Rockwool instead of celotex

    Regular plasterboard over the plywood. The trick is to stagger joints, and seal and tape the 2 layers independently with non-setting mastic. Just screw through plasterboard into joists should be ok.

    Plywood layer also makes fitting things to wall/ceiling easier.

    best of luck
    Last edited by sjs; 22-05-2019 at 20:37.
    SJS Arcadia Line Level Pre-amplifiers, Headphone amps, MM Phono Stages and SET Power amps - service, repairs, upgrades.
    Designed and hand-built in England.

  8. #28
    Join Date: Mar 2008

    Location: South Yorkshire

    Posts: 418
    I'm Glen.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sjs View Post
    Just watch cold bridging with the floor, but it should be pretty solid if joists are fastened to slab. Don't overfill voids, more like 75% of depth, same for wall fill, and consider Rockwool instead of celotex

    Regular plasterboard over the chipboard. The trick is to stagger joints, and seal and tape the 2 layers independently with non-setting mastic. Just screw through plasterboard into joists should be ok.

    Chipboard layer also makes fitting things to wall/ceiling easier.

    best of luck
    Thanks again. I was going to fill the voids in the wall and the ceiling with RW3. Celotex or Kingspan was for the floor only. I'll certainly consider the ply over the studs, but it does add well over £100 to the price. Ply has gotten expensive!

    Appreciate your input...

  9. #29
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Norwich

    Posts: 1,064
    I'm Mike.

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    Have you thought of the electrics? Heating? (sorry but I've just scanned the previous posts). Concrete floor over suspended any time for me. Decent underlay and carpet on top finishes it off and you achieve more height; always a bonus.. All assuming it's dry, of course. A nice rectangular 9'+ x 16'+ is good. Just okay for rear-firing ports, ESLs and anything, really, but you'd need your seating position to be a foot or two away from the rear wall, so anything less than 16' does compromise things for future speaker changes.

    Kit position ? Next to seat is best, with possibly a 'wall' to shield any t/t etc. Otherwise between/behind the speakers assuming you have a remote.

  10. #30
    Join Date: Mar 2008

    Location: South Yorkshire

    Posts: 418
    I'm Glen.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Reed View Post
    Have you thought of the electrics? Heating? (sorry but I've just scanned the previous posts). Concrete floor over suspended any time for me. Decent underlay and carpet on top finishes it off and you achieve more height; always a bonus.. All assuming it's dry, of course. A nice rectangular 9'+ x 16'+ is good. Just okay for rear-firing ports, ESLs and anything, really, but you'd need your seating position to be a foot or two away from the rear wall, so anything less than 16' does compromise things for future speaker changes.

    Kit position ? Next to seat is best, with possibly a 'wall' to shield any t/t etc. Otherwise between/behind the speakers assuming you have a remote.
    Hi Mike,

    Thanks for your post. Yes the electrics are already in the garage. Might upgrade the consumer unit as it's quite old now. I watched the video posted earlier and that was helpful with regards soundproofing. He describes sound like water. If there's a hole the sound will escape. So.. no holes! Surface mount plug sockets and no downlights. I also checked out the Cardas speaker placement calculator, so have an idea of where the Snell E/III's I have at the moment will go. Also read somewhere that a good start for the seat placement is 38% from the back wall, so I'll start there or near to it and see how it goes. I would very much prefer a solid concrete plinth, but I don't think it's a viable option. I'll have another think, maybe give a mini-mix concrete place near me a call tomorrow and see exactly the cost and if they can pump it from the street into the garage. I probably only need about 1.5m3, probably less.
    As for the heating etc. I'm thinking of a heat recovery system from Vent Axia or some such. They're relatively cheap and will keep fresh air moving all year round. Heating will be a suitable electric radiator for now.. I'm hoping that with all the insulation it'll maintain a decent temp?
    I appreciate the comments, it keeps me thinking and making sure I'm not missing anything.

    Thanks all

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