Location: East Anglia UK
Posts: 1,219
I'm Marc.
The previous owner did the garage conversion here, and it works very well acoustically, despite being miniscule. Concrete floor, plasterboard ceiling, mixture of brick and breezeblock walls, and (crucially) no parallel walls ... certainly, be creative with an asymmetric floor plan if you want to avoid the square/rectangular boom-box problem.
Wow! Thanks for all the replies. I'll check out some of the links and do a little more research. There's always more to read and learn it would seem...
Thanks again
Location: London
Posts: 1,499
I'm Sam.
Here's an interesting DIY sound-proofed room in a garage: http://www.trustmeimascientist.com/2...t-youre-doing/ - interesting because they've just gone for it with no prior experience.
There was a long running blog of someone's hifi room build I followed a while back too - might have been on pinkfishmedia.net? Although that was on a grander scale and was in a work warehouse.
Make a 2D diffuser or two - I think they look great:
Bit of a complex problem In 2 parts.
Soundproofing the room is easily doable by using Resilient channels betwixt Studs / Rafters /joists And the Gypsum board sheets.
IF really Keen use Fireguard type Gypsum board (twice as heavy at only a moderate cost upcharge)
Fiberglass Or Rockwool Insulation in the stud/joist voids Won't hurt. But it IS the resilient channel doing most All of the hard soundproofing work.
Making the resulting surfaces amenable to listening to music As opposed to a soundcontaining (mostly :-) Echo chamber is a Surface texture / treatment exercise.
Yeah, z bar is essential for decoupling the surfaces
Regards,
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So after three years, I'm resurrecting this thread! The garage room is not only back on, but will be starting this weekend! I've only really waited about thirty years for this, so I'm stoked. The problem is, the more I read the more I get confused about what I need to do. The garage is a single brick construction on a concrete pad. It's completely detached from the house. The volume levels I listen at are usually no more than 85ish dB or thereabouts, more often than not it'll be lower than that.
I'm hoping that the length of the internal room will be about 16.5' x only 9' by about 7 ' 2" high, so not brilliant dimensions. The width of the room is my main problem, but I can't do anything about that. Room absorbers, bass traps and diffusers will be used throughout (diy). As with most garages the floor rums off toward the door.
Following is my plan of action up to now, but as above, any advice would be most welcome...
So I'm aiming for the room within a room principle 2" x 4" Studs with rubber resilient strips (10mm thick x 100mm wide) on the top and bottom sections of the studs, which will all be set 10mm or so from the garage walls. Metal Resilient channels mounted directly to the roof joists and plasterboard attached to those. Breathable membrane will form the back of the studs with walls and ceiling having RW3 Rock Wool insulation and 15mm Acoustic plasterboard attached. 5mm gaps all around sealed with Acoustic sealant. There will be only one door into the place and so I'm thinking of the heaviest door I can find (maybe a fire door? I'm not sure). The floor will be 2" x 4" joists, lessening to 2" x 2" at the other to compensate for the slope. 50mm Celotex insulation and topped with 22mm chipboard.
For breathing, which was mentioned earlier and I'm sure you'll agree a necessary requirement, I'm thinking of an Axia (or some such) heat recovery unit.
Am I way off the mark here, will it be a pig and just not work, are there much better options? If so then please let me know before I start. We're surrounded by other houses and it's pretty quiet at night round here and I will listen late into the evening...
One other question I'm totally unsure about is, should I construct the floor and ceiling first then build the stud walls on top of the chipboard and fastened to the ceiling plasterboard (using the rubber strips)? Or screw the stud directly, well through the rubber resilient strips, to the concrete slab? Then attach it to the ceiling joists, again through the rubber strips? I know there is much written about this subject, but I'm reading conflicting theories as is always the case. If you can offer any thoughts then please do..
Thanks all
Last edited by glenann; 21-05-2019 at 14:09.
A lengthy video but well worth watching for a major project https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1d9WmjTJniI&t=726s
He deals with both sound isolation and acoustic treatment
My listening room is in the garden, 4" X 2" stud with ship lap on the outside and plasterboard inside, with 8" rockwool pressed into the 4" cavity. The floor is raised wood with celotex insulation between the joists. Ceiling also has 8" rockwool between the 4" cavity.There is virtually no sound outside, there are aluminium double glazed French doors. Room treatment is 4' X 2' X 2" absorption panels at first reflection points on right wall and ceiling and on the back wall, left wall is where the French doors are so have kilo serge wool curtains as used in vocal booths.
Bakoon 13r Denon DP80 Stax UA-70 Shure Ultra 500 in a Martin Bastin body with jico stylus, project ds2 digital Rullit aero 8 field coils in tqwt speakers
Office system, DIY CSS fullrange speakers with aurum cantus G2 ribbons yulong dac Sony STR6055 receiver Jvc QL-A51 direct drive turntable, Leema sub. JVC Z4S cart is in the house
Garage system another Sony receiver, cassette deck
System components are subject to change without warning and at the discretion of the owner.