Drunken Moderator
Location: Staffordshire, England
Posts: 37,934
I'm Martin.
Well spoke to soon. Alan did fix the problem with it not powering up at all, which I think was just the start up board not being properly connected, but now it's warmed up the original fault I sent it to the other bloke to repair, and which he reckoned he'd fixed, has re-appeared.
Oh well. Back to the drawing board.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
Senior Member
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 1,403
I'm John.
Bummer!
What was the original fault?
Drunken Moderator
Location: Staffordshire, England
Posts: 37,934
I'm Martin.
right channel starts intermittently crackling, then eventually drops out altogether.Originally Posted by JohnJo
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
Senior Member
Location: Bristol
Posts: 6,843
I'm Justin.
I think a more God like accolade is appropriate.Krell KSA50S is working and back in the system!
Infinite thanks to Alan 'Firebottle' - I will be having a word with the Pope and get him made a Saint.
Shame he didn't get the issue when looking at it though.
Moderator & Terminator!
Location: N E Kent
Posts: 51,625
I'm Geoff.
That's a shame mate. Hope it's not too much aggro to sort.
It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!
Fount Master & Moderator
Location: Essex
Posts: 32,053
I'm openingabottleofwine.
That's disappointing news Martin. How does it compare with the KSA100 Mk.II ?
Hope you can get it sorted quickly.
Barry
Drunken Moderator
Location: Staffordshire, England
Posts: 37,934
I'm Martin.
I prefer it to the KSA100, at least with my current speakers. The 100 is a little bit warmer and smoother. Most Krell aficionados prefer the 100 though, as always it depends on what you're after.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
Site Owner/Administrator
Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK
Posts: 110,012
I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.
+1... At this rate mate, valves would be more reliable!
Anyway, hope you get it sorted soon.
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!
Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!
Senior Member
Location: Glasgowshire
Posts: 9,663
I'm Gary.
Damn.
What a pisser!
Hopefully it’s an easy fix Martin, maybe the bloke who worked on it originally can shed some light on his take on the original fault, good troubleshooting info?
A crackin’ amp, well worth getting sorted.
AC POWER
Hardwired 10kVA balanced mains powering entire system
AMPS
Meridian 557 power Amp (Modded) / PS Audio BHK Preamp (Modded)
SPEAKERS
Wharfedale Evo 4.4
DAC
PS Audio Directstream (Modded)
TURNTABLE
Pro-Ject X8 balanced output via XLR / Ortofon Quintet Blue cartridge
PHONOSTAGE
Pro-Ject DS3 B balanced Input (TT and Phonostage powered by Pro-Ject Power box RS2 linear psu)
DIGITAL
OPPO 203 (Modded: Linear PSU, i2s output to Dac) - Roon Endpoint, HDMI input used for all things Streaming/ PS5 /AppleTV ... also good for movies apparently?
MUSIC PLAYBACK
Tweaked AP-Linux based Roon Server into Oppo 203 as Roon endpoint
Ipad Roon Remote.
Apple Music/ YouTube via AppleTV, fed to Dac via Oppo HDMI input/i2s output to Dac.
SPEAKER CABLES
Biwired: Duelund DCA10GA (Bass) Duelund DCA16GA (mid & treble) Duelund 12DCA used as jumpers (On "Blackcat Cable" Chris Sommivigo's advice - yup, even with biwire it sounds better - and it does)
INTERCONNECTS
All Balanced: Ghost+ recording studio XLR cables
Drunken Moderator
Location: Staffordshire, England
Posts: 37,934
I'm Martin.
Gaz, I don't know what I'm going to do with it. I'd buy another one but of course there's none for sale anywhere at any price.
In the meantime I've set up some Beovox MC120.2 being driven by the Sony 530ES integrated. You'd have to be very picky to fault the sound, unfortunately for me I am very picky. Still great speakers these, three ways with midrange dome, Volt bass drivers. The bass drivers were re-foamed by the previous owner. I've got the integral stands somewhere, couldn't be arsed to search for them though.
Note the waveguides around tweeter and mids, way ahead of the time for 1983. Allegedly one of the best speakers B&O ever made.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
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