Tried some wax - fairly soft / pliable with fingers - Did not like it as much as the
Blutak! Put the Blutak back in and am getting used to it...
Tried some wax - fairly soft / pliable with fingers - Did not like it as much as the
Blutak! Put the Blutak back in and am getting used to it...
System: Turntable : SP10 MKII slate plinth, Custom Ebony tonearm board, Arm : Fidelity Research FR64s, Cartridge : SPU Royal N. SUT : Lundahl 1:13. Phonostage : Icon Audio, Streaming RPi/Kali reclocker -> I2S -> DSP XO / Pre / 4 DAC's : WAF Najda, 5 Poweramps : 3 x EL84 SET's, 2 x D class amps on bass channels, Speakers : 5 way front loaded horn system: 2 X Tapped sub 15" LF drivers / 2 X Exponential mid bass 15" drivers / Tractrix 200Hz mid horns with JBL2482's, / Tractrix 550Hz upper wooden horns with factory refurb'd Vitavox S2's / Raal Lazy Ribbons as high frequency tweeters. Wires: good silver or good copper where best suited. DIY RCM.
Maker of tonearm boards, armpods, Tannoy GRF style speaker cabinets, horn speakers, counterweights and more.
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Location: San Francisco Bay, USA
Posts: 18
Hello all,
just wondering if anyone else has investigated this easy15 minute experiment? I feel it's a worthwhile try. no drawbacks that I can detect. all win win for me.
Thanks. Stan
Hello Stan
I tried your tweak today, using Blutack applied on all the outer surfaces of the bearing housing, away from any moving parts.
The sound seems just slightly warmer, as if a touch of treble glare has been removed. It's a fairly subtle change - I may keep it for a while and then listen again with the damping removed.
Location: San Francisco Bay, USA
Posts: 18
Hi Jonners,
yes this is where I also am noticing the best area of improvement. The definition in the highs were so much clearer, I had to check for speed correction. Good to hear it ,Jonners. Enjoy.
Stan
My reaction was not to check the speed, but to turn the volume up a notch.
Been playing around with this some more.
There is definitely an optimum quantity of the blu stuff needed. Settled on about an 8mm ball placed in the plinth dish and tightened down.
Filling the whole dish and then bearing in was over quite frankly overpowering in my system.
System: Turntable : SP10 MKII slate plinth, Custom Ebony tonearm board, Arm : Fidelity Research FR64s, Cartridge : SPU Royal N. SUT : Lundahl 1:13. Phonostage : Icon Audio, Streaming RPi/Kali reclocker -> I2S -> DSP XO / Pre / 4 DAC's : WAF Najda, 5 Poweramps : 3 x EL84 SET's, 2 x D class amps on bass channels, Speakers : 5 way front loaded horn system: 2 X Tapped sub 15" LF drivers / 2 X Exponential mid bass 15" drivers / Tractrix 200Hz mid horns with JBL2482's, / Tractrix 550Hz upper wooden horns with factory refurb'd Vitavox S2's / Raal Lazy Ribbons as high frequency tweeters. Wires: good silver or good copper where best suited. DIY RCM.
Maker of tonearm boards, armpods, Tannoy GRF style speaker cabinets, horn speakers, counterweights and more.
For more information about my creations and products please click below
http://fosworld.wixsite.com/magna-audio & on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/magna_audio/
If anyone is thinking of trying this but is unsure how to get at the bearing assembly, taking a look at this should help: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLOjU...eature=channel
System: Turntable : SP10 MKII slate plinth, Custom Ebony tonearm board, Arm : Fidelity Research FR64s, Cartridge : SPU Royal N. SUT : Lundahl 1:13. Phonostage : Icon Audio, Streaming RPi/Kali reclocker -> I2S -> DSP XO / Pre / 4 DAC's : WAF Najda, 5 Poweramps : 3 x EL84 SET's, 2 x D class amps on bass channels, Speakers : 5 way front loaded horn system: 2 X Tapped sub 15" LF drivers / 2 X Exponential mid bass 15" drivers / Tractrix 200Hz mid horns with JBL2482's, / Tractrix 550Hz upper wooden horns with factory refurb'd Vitavox S2's / Raal Lazy Ribbons as high frequency tweeters. Wires: good silver or good copper where best suited. DIY RCM.
Maker of tonearm boards, armpods, Tannoy GRF style speaker cabinets, horn speakers, counterweights and more.
For more information about my creations and products please click below
http://fosworld.wixsite.com/magna-audio & on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/magna_audio/
Sorry over reacted a bit - I have a thing about ESP from my Telecom exchange commissioning / testing days.
Apart from that it was informative as to what to remove to get at the bearing.
System: Turntable : SP10 MKII slate plinth, Custom Ebony tonearm board, Arm : Fidelity Research FR64s, Cartridge : SPU Royal N. SUT : Lundahl 1:13. Phonostage : Icon Audio, Streaming RPi/Kali reclocker -> I2S -> DSP XO / Pre / 4 DAC's : WAF Najda, 5 Poweramps : 3 x EL84 SET's, 2 x D class amps on bass channels, Speakers : 5 way front loaded horn system: 2 X Tapped sub 15" LF drivers / 2 X Exponential mid bass 15" drivers / Tractrix 200Hz mid horns with JBL2482's, / Tractrix 550Hz upper wooden horns with factory refurb'd Vitavox S2's / Raal Lazy Ribbons as high frequency tweeters. Wires: good silver or good copper where best suited. DIY RCM.
Maker of tonearm boards, armpods, Tannoy GRF style speaker cabinets, horn speakers, counterweights and more.
For more information about my creations and products please click below
http://fosworld.wixsite.com/magna-audio & on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/magna_audio/