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Thread: Plastering or Filling under a bay window to secure blinds to advise

  1. #1
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

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    I'm Robert.

    Default Plastering or Filling under a bay window to secure blinds to advise

    The blinds covering the middle window in the bedroom bay have fallen down. Some of the plaster had come away taking the piece of timber they were attached to with them. I've had the wood up there for years to secure the curtain rails to and now the blinds. What I want to know is whats a good approach so that the piece of 1 by 1.5 wont come away again when I attempt to glue it back up as before with no nails and hopefully re-attach the blinds. The area of plaster that has come away is not large. I usually fill with red devil type filler, the soft white stuf which I find easy to use. I need whatever I do to be as secure as possible as I really (and obviously) don't want them coming down again - what would you use / do ?

  2. #2
    Join Date: Apr 2012

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    I'm Geoff.

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    Remove any loose material from the cavity left by the dislodged plaster. Treat the hole to be filled with Unibond or similar PVA type stabilizer (mix it with a little water). Then fill with a well mixed, good quality plaster. I like Tetrion filler for smaller jobs, but I dare say others could use something else. Make sure the plaster is worked into all gaps or irregularities at the back of the cavity. You can actually add a little Unibond to the plaster to make it set stronger. For a job like this, I'd probably just use my fingers to work a bit of plaster in first and finish off filling with a scraper to get the surface level. Sand flat when dry with fairly coarse sandpaper.
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  3. #3
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    Thats really good advice nice one Geoff; just what I'd do, especially the, having a clean cavity bit... most important
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  4. #4
    Join Date: Apr 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by struth View Post
    Thats really good advice nice one Geoff; just what I'd do, especially the, having a clean cavity bit... most important
    Agreed Grant -Thanks Geoff advise sounds sensible and clear which is much appreciated

  5. #5
    Join Date: Apr 2012

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    I'm Geoff.

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    I should have added, when cleaning the cavity use a dry paint brush or/and a hoover! Dust affects adhesion.
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  6. #6
    Join Date: Apr 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    I should have added, when cleaning the cavity use a dry paint brush or/and a hoover! Dust affects adhesion.
    Cheers Geoff

  7. #7
    Join Date: Sep 2009

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Remove any loose material from the cavity left by the dislodged plaster. Treat the hole to be filled with Unibond or similar PVA type stabilizer (mix it with a little water). Then fill with a well mixed, good quality plaster. I like Tetrion filler for smaller jobs, but I dare say others could use something else. Make sure the plaster is worked into all gaps or irregularities at the back of the cavity. You can actually add a little Unibond to the plaster to make it set stronger. For a job like this, I'd probably just use my fingers to work a bit of plaster in first and finish off filling with a scraper to get the surface level. Sand flat when dry with fairly coarse sandpaper.
    Being a bish bosher by trade if the plaster has been taken back to the brick work- as Geoff said brush out any dust, then brush the background with clean water making what you are to plaster damp, prior to plastering, ( when mixing plaster use the cleanest water possible as this increases strength and cuts down on the said plaster shrinking to quickly) mix the plaster as much as possible so it forms a creamy mass ( like butter if you will) DO NOT PUT PVA IN ANY PLASTER- as it will be very hard to rub down if you have to- just clean water and mix well, that is all that is require.

    Good luck.

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  8. #8
    Join Date: Mar 2012

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    To add to the above replies. I would never use 'no-more nails', or similar to fix wood to the wall. Plug and screw. Especially with the weight of curtains/blinds + curtain pole etc.
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  9. #9
    Join Date: Apr 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by jollyfix View Post
    To add to the above replies. I would never use 'no-more nails', or similar to fix wood to the wall. Plug and screw. Especially with the weight of curtains/blinds + curtain pole etc.
    Hi Dave, I know what you mean. I've used no nails before to put a piece of wood above window area like back room patio. As you probably know these areas are notorious for crumbly old plaster that just wont take drilling for your rawplug. You drill and its a gape The pieces are still up 15 years on. The only reason for this recent issue was a broken tile which caused damp above that area which has been sorted. To drill into the ceiling of the bay area to fix plug and screw fittings would be too much, I'd just be making big holes. As you know those areas are not that deep and solid anyway but I totally appreciate what you are saying.

  10. #10
    Join Date: Sep 2009

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    Quote Originally Posted by jollyfix View Post
    To add to the above replies. I would never use 'no-more nails', or similar to fix wood to the wall. Plug and screw. Especially with the weight of curtains/blinds + curtain pole etc.
    x2 Rawplug, screw all day long.
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    Amplification and loudspeaker set up is at the moment being split into two groups, comprising the following;


    1. Same sources as above; SONY TAF-770ES/SONY CDP761E/Cable Talk 3.1 loudspeakercable/ Harbeth Compact7ES2/ Stands

    2. Virtue Audio Sensation M451battery PSU, ClarityCaps upgrade/ Sensation M901/Russian PIO caps with Teflon bypass caps upgrade/ JT Dynamic PSU with various tweaks/ Connex Audio 5N Litz loudspeaker cable, Impulse H6 Loudspeakers.




















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