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Thread: Techy SL1200 Phono Lead Help, Please.

  1. #1
    Join Date: Apr 2009

    Location: Sheffield

    Posts: 2,027
    I'm Confused.

    Question Techy SL1200 Phono Lead Help, Please.

    High Guys,
    I'm back, for the benefit of anyone that missed me - for anyone that didn't, why not? .
    I have finally received my Techy and set it up, complete with new headshell and cartridge set up for me by Marco, for which many thanks. I am very happy with the sound I am getting from it at the moment but suspect that it could be improved (no comments Steve, please ). One of the obvious areas which strikes me could be improved is the phono leads and plugs. I'm not sure whether mine is equipped with original standard leads or whether they have been replaced but they appear to be relatively flimsy compared to the 'brick shithouse' solidity of the rest of the build quality, and one phono plug looks as though someone trod on it and made a cack-handed attempt to re-round it - it now feels very flimsy and sloppy in the socket.
    Because off this I think that it would benefit by having the phono leads replaced with something of a little better quality, so I have the following questions: -
    1) are the original Techy phono leads lightweight and flimsy?
    2) are they recognised as a weak point on the Techy?
    3) how are they connected within the Techy, soldered or screw terminal and how difficult is it to replace them?
    4) are they readily available as a spare part from Dave Cawley, say and if so, how much do they cost.
    Any general advice, comments or guidance on this aspect would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in anticipation.
    Cheers,
    DaveK.

    My System:
    Power: Belkin PF40, Custom.hifi.cables Hydra and DC PSUs.
    Sources: Self built HTPC with Xonar ST sound card, NAD T585 multi disc player, Sony BDP-S350, Squeezebox Touch, Techncs SL1210 (mod'd) + Nagaoka MP30, Thomson Sky HD box.
    Amps etc.: 2 x Mini-T amps, MF-X10D Valve buffer clone, StanDAC 7520/Caiman (mod'd).
    Speakers: Mission 774s with added super tweeters
    Cables: best I can afford and likely to change except Homar's RF attenuated co-ax's and Mark Grant USB and HDMI cables. I also like silver i/cs and speaker cable.

  2. #2
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Worcester

    Posts: 6,830
    I'm Hamish.

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    welcome back!
    i to am interested in any resposes this question might get
    Hamish

  3. #3
    Join Date: Feb 2009

    Location: Hamburg, Germany

    Posts: 60
    I'm Joerg.

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    Hi,
    yes the original ones are quite flimsy and what most people do is to swap the entire phono cable for a new one with better plugs. My 1210 is still waiting for a new cable. I had to replace the plugs because the soldering inside one of the plugs broke and presented me with hum and sometimes a complete loss of a channel. There is a Nagaoka cable I'm looking forward to solder to the Technics.

    To swap the cable you have to turn the deck over, take off the bottom (whole lot of screws) take of the round cover under the tonearm and solder off the old one. This is also a good chance to replace the ground wire with a better one if you wish or think you'll feel better with it afterwards.

    Take a look at this site: http://www.djresource.eu/Topics/stor...d-Ground-Wire/

    They have a very neat description with pictures.

    Cheers

    Joerg

  4. #4
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Norwich

    Posts: 2,695
    I'm Hugo.

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    If you don't feel entirely confident replacing the phono-out leads, you could send the entire arm to Audio Origami for a total re-wire. He knows what he's doing and will also check and set the bearings too. Options include filling the arm tube with foam, which might be worth considering, as my Audio Origami re-wired but otherwise standard arm does tend to get muddled when the music gets complicated; it's quite beguiling with simple stuff, though.

    His service really is top-notch. See http://www.audioorigami.co.uk/index.htm

  5. #5
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Hemel Hempstead

    Posts: 1,075
    I'm Steve.

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    Welcome back Dave.

    If you don't want to or can't justify replacing the arm completely at this point (as I haven't - yet), then I would definitely second Shuggie's suggestion, as this was exactly what I did.

    Johnnie at Audio Origami did a complete nose-to-tail rewire, replacing the stock arm wiring and trailing phonos, plus foam-filling the arm tube and checking all the bearing tolerances for 140, and as a stop-gap to full arm replacement, I'm pretty pleased with it.

    Upside is that you can just remove the whole arm and height-adjustment mount, pack carefully and send away and it comes back ready to go and quite simple to re-install.

    Downside is that you'll probably be turntable-less for about 3 weeks, depending on Johnnie's work-load.
    Steve aka 'Twelvebears' (it's a long story)
    System: Technics 1210 Mk5, Jelco 750 arm, AT33EV via MF X-LP2 Phono Stage, Oyaide mat and record clamp. SB Touch via Marantz PM-11S1 amp and Wilson Benesch A.C.T. speakers. Mark Grant cables and PS Audio Power Plant Premier mains regenerator.
    (\__/)
    (='.'=)
    (")_(")

  6. #6
    Join Date: Apr 2009

    Location: Sheffield

    Posts: 2,027
    I'm Confused.

    Thumbs up

    Thanks Joerg, Shuggie and Steve,
    Your posts are exactly the information(s) that I am looking for, and I expect Hamish will be equally grateful. At the moment, for me, it's a toss up between handing my newly beloved Techy to my local TV/radio/appliance repair man (who did a good job fitting longer phonos to my current old Sony TT), or shipping the arm off to Johnnie, but I'm like a kid with a new toy at the moment so it ain't going anywhere! I'll also have a look at the price of better quality replacement phono leads that one of you mentioned, for if I go for the local repair - shorter downtime.
    Many thanks to all.
    Cheers,
    DaveK.

    My System:
    Power: Belkin PF40, Custom.hifi.cables Hydra and DC PSUs.
    Sources: Self built HTPC with Xonar ST sound card, NAD T585 multi disc player, Sony BDP-S350, Squeezebox Touch, Techncs SL1210 (mod'd) + Nagaoka MP30, Thomson Sky HD box.
    Amps etc.: 2 x Mini-T amps, MF-X10D Valve buffer clone, StanDAC 7520/Caiman (mod'd).
    Speakers: Mission 774s with added super tweeters
    Cables: best I can afford and likely to change except Homar's RF attenuated co-ax's and Mark Grant USB and HDMI cables. I also like silver i/cs and speaker cable.

  7. #7
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: Banbury, Oxfordshire/Panteg is where my late father was born

    Posts: 4,321
    I'm Chris.

    Default

    Hi

    This is what i bought for mine 'its a nice upgrade for peanuts ' very nice cable indeed ' don't be put off by the low price , and there is a better kit for 40 if you want it.

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Technics-SL-12...4.c0.m14.l1262
    Chris

    We've gone on holiday by mistake !

  8. #8
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with far away trains passing by...

    Posts: 14,560
    I'm David.

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    I understand the mk5 has slightly better wiring, but not sure just how bad the earlier ones are, as the decks ancestors had fairly chunky external wiring as I remember..

    Audio Origami do a great job and if you don't hanker after a DL103 and are happy with moving magnet carts like the AT440MLa, Denon DL110 and 160 or Ortofon mm's at double the price (!) then having the standard arm breathed on by Jonny would be my recommendation for now - it's basically a good arm, just a bit lightweight (low mass) for DL103's and some other moving coil types.....
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
    Crying out at the top of my voice; Tell me now if you can hear me

  9. #9
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with far away trains passing by...

    Posts: 14,560
    I'm David.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chris@panteg View Post
    Hi

    This is what i bought for mine 'its a nice upgrade for peanuts ' very nice cable indeed ' don't be put off by the low price , and there is a better kit for 40 if you want it.

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Technics-SL-12...4.c0.m14.l1262
    Missed that - Looks good and 10 or so for making it up to sell (plus wire and plugs) is quite fair IMO, bearing in mind the time taken to solder it etc..

    I got some of the Van Damme flexible pro-patch mic cable for the Dual. Good stuff and just lets the signal through.....
    Last edited by DSJR; 27-08-2009 at 10:31.
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
    Crying out at the top of my voice; Tell me now if you can hear me

  10. #10
    Join Date: Apr 2009

    Location: Sheffield

    Posts: 2,027
    I'm Confused.

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by chris@panteg View Post
    Hi

    This is what i bought for mine 'its a nice upgrade for peanuts ' very nice cable indeed ' don't be put off by the low price , and there is a better kit for 40 if you want it.

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Technics-SL-12...4.c0.m14.l1262
    Hi Chris,
    Thanks for that info - looks to be just what I'm looking for and price(s) look very reasonable - only problem, I am not safe with a soldring iron, no experience and shakey hands, so I'll need to get someone to do the necessary who knows what they are doing.
    Cheers,
    DaveK.

    My System:
    Power: Belkin PF40, Custom.hifi.cables Hydra and DC PSUs.
    Sources: Self built HTPC with Xonar ST sound card, NAD T585 multi disc player, Sony BDP-S350, Squeezebox Touch, Techncs SL1210 (mod'd) + Nagaoka MP30, Thomson Sky HD box.
    Amps etc.: 2 x Mini-T amps, MF-X10D Valve buffer clone, StanDAC 7520/Caiman (mod'd).
    Speakers: Mission 774s with added super tweeters
    Cables: best I can afford and likely to change except Homar's RF attenuated co-ax's and Mark Grant USB and HDMI cables. I also like silver i/cs and speaker cable.

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