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Thread: Yamaha NS1000M - Tweaks

  1. #271
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,557
    I'm Ken.

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    Quote Originally Posted by YNWaN View Post
    It’s not difficult to measure the L-pads and they can be replaced by two resistors (you might need more than two to get exactly the right values). If one does measure them the pots can be seen to be less than ideally matched and do not present an even impedance. Of course, once they are bypassed it doesn’t allow you to adjust them so easily.
    I tried using fixed resistors right at the beginning of the project, to be honest, I couldn't hear much, if any difference, one way or the other, so as my pots are smooth and not scratchy I put them back in, when reverting back to passive. The ability to adjust does come in handy now and again.
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/Pro-Ject based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + AT 33PTG II / AQVOX Phono 2 CI / PS Audio Stellar DAC-Pre / ESP Active X-Over / Nord MC500 Power Amps/ Modified semi-active Yamaha NS1000M Speakers / Stello CDT100 Transport.

  2. #272
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,557
    I'm Ken.

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    .

    The caps I used in the example above replicate the sound of the original silver cans exactly, if this is what you want then use the Ansar Supersound as indicated.

    The stock NS-1000m have always had the reputation of being a bit Amp fussy and needing something rich sounding, with a highish damping factor, like a Luxman, to sound their best. When using my Nakamichi Power Amp (fairly neutral) with the stock speakers, I had to turn the mid range down by 2dB on the level controls and I have to do the same with the Ansar caps fitted. The metal dome mid range just has too much top end bias otherwise.

    I have a lot of respect for the work done on HumbleHomeMadeHiFi in the cap tests and I nearly always agree with the results on the caps I have experience with. The comments they make about the Ansar Supersound is that they concentrate on the upper frequencies and are therefor not particularly neutral. I decided to try a more neutral cap, just for the location in series with the mid range driver (21uF) and see how that faired.

    I settled on the fairly modest entry level Mundorf MCap MKP. The largest size (diameter) that will fit into the moulded pockets on the rear of the Yamaha x-over plate is the 4.7uF. So I used 4x 4.7uF and a single 2.2uF to make the 21uF needed. When I measured the individual caps for both x-overs, two were just over the nominal value and the rest were all just under. They were all closer than 1% which is a lot better than the stated 3% and something also picked up in the "Humble" tests. I added a 0.1uF to one bunch and a 0.22uF to the other, this gave me totals of 20.996uF and 21.018uF which is more than close enough, note I didn't use a bypass on these. I left all the other caps as previous, including the bypass used on the Mundorf Supreme.



    The caps fitted in nice and neat, a bit of silicone sealant was used to hold them in place and reduce vibrations. I ran them in for a couple of days before giving them a listen.

    I can not over state how much of an improvement these caps make over either the stock Silver cans or the Ansar Supersounds. They work so much better with the mid range driver. The level controls can be set to normal, they are much more Amp friendly in this respect. The more neutral balance removes the top end focus and gives a slightly richer mid range with better (more realistic) piano in the lower part of the middle of the key board. This has been one of my pet hates on every pair of NS-1000m that I have heard, these caps cure it. They make for a very easy listen, without being over lush, sound stage has improved further and sibilance has all but disappeared (unless on the recording).

    I was originally putting my NS-1000m back to stock spec to sell on, that decision may have now changed, as I am enjoying listening to them like never before.

    This final combination is a winner, I can definitely recommend it. If you can use a soldering Iron, this simple capacitor replacement is actually an upgrade and will give your speakers a new, more neutral and natural sound. If you have a really bright sounding Amp using a percentage of ClarityCap ESA for the mid range bunch will help, but if your system is neutral this last combination is the dogs whatsits.
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/Pro-Ject based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + AT 33PTG II / AQVOX Phono 2 CI / PS Audio Stellar DAC-Pre / ESP Active X-Over / Nord MC500 Power Amps/ Modified semi-active Yamaha NS1000M Speakers / Stello CDT100 Transport.

  3. #273
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 3,531
    I'm jamie.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Qwin View Post


    The caps have been fitted, Ansar Supersound (PP) for the midrange bandpass, a Mundorf Supreme (PP) for the series tweeter and Mundorf Ecap (Lytics) for the parallel pair in the low frequency filter. The Supremes are a bit pricey, but I only needed a 2.7uf so not too painful, its the big one, with the two Mundorf Lytics behind it. The three small Ansars on the right are 1.5 + 1 + 1 = 3.5 (3.48 actual). The Ansars on the lower left should make 21uf and are 8 + 6.8 + 6.8 = 21.6 (21.29 actual). The Lytics 47 + 47 = 94 measured 95.4uf. The 2.7uf Supreme measured 2.71, so all values are very close to ideal.

    I replaced the bell wire between the binding posts and the x-over with van damme 2.5mm square OFC, I soldered it to the back of the posts.

    I left the internal wire as standard, as best as I could measure, the bass driver is wired with 15 AWG which should be up to the job.
    hi ken,
    did you use plain or raw for the ecaps?
    My System/ Yamaha NS1000M speakers ,Pioneer PLC-590,Sony TTS-8000 turntables,Pioneer PA-5000 and PMAT-1010 Tonearms,AT-ART 7 Cartridge,Denon HA-500 Head Amp, John Wood KT88 Valve Amp, Nakamichi ca5 pre amp,Sony X555ES CD Player,Karma Interconnects

  4. #274
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,557
    I'm Ken.

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    I used Plain Mundorf e-Caps, which are low loss bi-polar electrolytics, for the large parallel values.

    Note that I have had even better results using Janzen Superior Z-Caps instead of Ansar Supersound/Mundorf Supreme, for the Polyprop positions and this is what I have in my latest passive crossover. The top end is just a bit cleaner and slightly more detailed from the mids upward.
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/Pro-Ject based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + AT 33PTG II / AQVOX Phono 2 CI / PS Audio Stellar DAC-Pre / ESP Active X-Over / Nord MC500 Power Amps/ Modified semi-active Yamaha NS1000M Speakers / Stello CDT100 Transport.

  5. #275
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 3,531
    I'm jamie.

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    thanks
    My System/ Yamaha NS1000M speakers ,Pioneer PLC-590,Sony TTS-8000 turntables,Pioneer PA-5000 and PMAT-1010 Tonearms,AT-ART 7 Cartridge,Denon HA-500 Head Amp, John Wood KT88 Valve Amp, Nakamichi ca5 pre amp,Sony X555ES CD Player,Karma Interconnects

  6. #276
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 4,271
    I'm Justin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Qwin View Post
    I used Plain Mundorf e-Caps, which are low loss bi-polar electrolytics, for the large parallel values.

    Note that I have had even better results using Janzen Superior Z-Caps instead of Ansar Supersound/Mundorf Supreme, for the Polyprop positions and this is what I have in my latest passive crossover. The top end is just a bit cleaner and slightly more detailed from the mids upward.
    I used Jantzen Aluminium Z-Foil caps in my Apogee crossovers. They are good, as Humble asserted. TBH I may swap them out for Jupiter copper foil but they are huge and won't fit in the current box.

    Jantzen coils too. I really rate their coils they look a lot nicer than the Mundorf ones I am also using. Great quality for the money. Better than Danish bacon, by a good margin

    Respect for messing with your crossovers. Have you tried modelling the crossover in a simulation package?
    Double slit experiment enlightened.

  7. #277
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Sheffield - UK

    Posts: 6,086
    I'm Mark.

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    I was very impressed by the Jantzen coils I used in my NS-1000s. If you look at the crossovers of commercial high-end speakers you will often see Jantzen coils being used. For mid I used a combo of ClarityCap ESA and Mundorf Supreme paralleled together. The tweeter is all Mundorf. This combo sounds suitably airy with no enhancement of sibilance and a detailed presentation, lacking in unnatural edge.

    100% Analogue

  8. #278
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,557
    I'm Ken.

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    I used predictive software on the crossovers and also measurements to do the final tweaking, apart from the slopes being steeper for the mid/bass its more or less stock passive design. I used active for the mid/bass hand over on my final version.

    I too have used Jantzen air coils, on this and several other projects, I rate them highly.

    After reading several cap comparison articles, including Humble, I changed my Mundorf Supreme on the Tweeter for a Jantzen Superior Z-Cap, it is slightly smoother/less sibilant with a smidgen more detail, top end is its strong point, we are talking very small differences, but easily noticeable on torture tracks.
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/Pro-Ject based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + AT 33PTG II / AQVOX Phono 2 CI / PS Audio Stellar DAC-Pre / ESP Active X-Over / Nord MC500 Power Amps/ Modified semi-active Yamaha NS1000M Speakers / Stello CDT100 Transport.

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