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Thread: Yamaha NS1000M - Tweaks

  1. #11
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Carlisle - UK

    Posts: 1,956
    I'm Ken.

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    Paul - yes I have seen Marks build thread on another Forum, like you say fantastic build quality and attention to detail.

    Mark - Thanks for the heads up on the stickers.

    Mike - I find Troels x-over builds a bit of a gamble. He seems to build whatever the program suggests and does not experiment much beyond this. Programs only get you in the right ball park and a lot of tweaking by ear and measuring is usually needed after that. Also he didn't even realise that the stock caps (7x 3.5uf) in the mid range and the single 2.7uf in the Tweeter filter are not electrolytics, which doesn't inspire confidance. There is the point allready made that he is in the business of encouraging the purchase of Jantzen parts, for whom he is a major share holder if not out right owner.

    I agree the wire used internally could do with upgrading, especially from x-over to bass driver and the wire from binding posts to x-over is a joke, one strand of copper as thin as that used on telephone or CAT5 twisted pairs, what were they thinking?

  2. #12
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Deleted

    Posts: 6,585
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    Oddly, someone on another forum contacted me only a couple of days ago about my opinion on some replacement copies of NS-1000M badges that were for sale on eBay (not by me) - they were £30 a pair and looked to be extremely close to the originals. They were laser etched which is how I did my own.
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  3. #13
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Carlisle - UK

    Posts: 1,956
    I'm Ken.

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    These may be the badges which I also spotted:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2717454811...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    I might just stick a round tuning fork logo on there, looks more refined and there are many of them around in the motor bike section like this:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2912585324...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

  4. #14
    Join Date: Jan 2009

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    Yes, that's them - as you say, plenty of the three tuning fork logo badges in the motorcycle section.
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  5. #15
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Carlisle - UK

    Posts: 1,956
    I'm Ken.

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    I took the small rear panel off the speakers to reveal the crossovers. The two large black caps (47uf) are aluminium electrolytics, the rest are film caps, metallised paper. All the silver caps are the same value (3.5uf), there is a single value used parallel in the midrange bandpass filter and six coupled together along the front for the series cap total of 21uf. But where are the coils you might ask?







    Four coils are mounted below the PCB with hot melt adhesive and are connected to solder tags along three of its edges. These connections have all to be de-soldered before the board can be removed to allow access to the rear face for removal of the capacitors.







    The connections for the coils were all unmade and the board removed. All the 3.5uf caps have been removed, the ones that were mounted vertically in the moulded plastic pockets were a pain to take out, as the hot melt glue used to fix them did not want to move. It’s now ready for me to start fitting the new caps.

  6. #16
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Carlisle - UK

    Posts: 1,956
    I'm Ken.

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    The caps have been fitted, Ansar Supersound (PP) for the midrange bandpass, a Mundorf Supreme (PP) for the series tweeter and Mundorf Ecap (Lytics) for the parallel pair in the low frequency filter. The Supremes are a bit pricey, but I only needed a 2.7uf so not too painful, its the big one, with the two Mundorf Lytics behind it. The three small Ansars on the right are 1.5 + 1 + 1 = 3.5 (3.48 actual). The Ansars on the lower left should make 21uf and are 8 + 6.8 + 6.8 = 21.6 (21.29 actual). The Lytics 47 + 47 = 94 measured 95.4uf. The 2.7uf Supreme measured 2.71, so all values are very close to ideal.

    I replaced the bell wire between the binding posts and the x-over with van damme 2.5mm square OFC, I soldered it to the back of the posts.

    I left the internal wire as standard, as best as I could measure, the bass driver is wired with 15 AWG which should be up to the job.
    Last edited by Qwin; 21-03-2015 at 07:44.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Feb 2012

    Location: Falun, Sweden

    Posts: 2,245
    I'm Mike.

    Default Yamaha NS1000M - Tweaks

    Great job! But what you waiting for dude? How do they sound????
    Regards Mike

  8. #18
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Carlisle - UK

    Posts: 1,956
    I'm Ken.

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    Doing the other crossover now, just took a coffee break.

    It should all be finished by the end of the day and I will give it a few days before I comment to allow things to settle.

    The Mundorf Supremes and Mundorf Ecaps were pre burned for a week, but the Ansars were fitted more or less when they arrived, I had to order a couple of extra 6.8's as one was at 4% tolerance, and the other three were better than 1% and almost exactly the same as each other (within 0.02uf). One of the two additional caps also fitted into this tight match so all was good in the end.

    Well I better get back to it.

  9. #19
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Carlisle - UK

    Posts: 1,956
    I'm Ken.

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    Well thats the other one back together.

    Got them playing to get some hours on them, all the solder joints where disturbed on the boards, these only take a couple of hours to bed in. The Ansar Supersound will take the longest as the other caps, having been pre burned, will settle in a couple of hours. I have found Ansars burn in pretty quickly, 30/40 hrs usually does it, the worst I came accross was Sonicap Gen1 which didn't reach their best till 150 hrs, some recon it takes 180 hrs, but I couldn't find any improvement after 150. The sound I can hear playing in the back ground is only slightly different to what I was hearing before the re cap, but in a good way.
    I will give a full report in a few days.

  10. #20
    Join Date: Feb 2012

    Location: Falun, Sweden

    Posts: 2,245
    I'm Mike.

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    Excellent, looking forward to it!

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