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Thread: Renovating veneered finishes

  1. #1
    synsei Guest

    Default Renovating veneered finishes

    I have been developing this method for a while. Now, having achieved consistent and excellent results using it I feel confident enough to share these tips with you guys. If you own a classic or vintage pair of speakers where the veneer is looking a bit tired and/or discoloured this method works wonders. Do not use this method on vinyl wrapped cabinets or else you will completely ruin the finish.

    Firstly you will need to buy a pack of these or similar, a cork sanding block and some Danish Oil. Find a suitable place to work on your speakers as this method can produce a lot of fine dust, consequently you may also want to wear a disposable dust mask of the sort you might use when machining or sanding wood. A pair of light, cotton gloves might prove useful too although I've never felt the need. You will also require some clean, soft cloths of some description (I use the fluffy side of an old fleece which I have cut up). One cloth will be required to apply the Danish Oil, the rest are for cleaning and polishing purposes. For final finishing a microfibre cloth gives a nice finish but is not absolutely necessary.

    Step 1:

    Using one of your clean cloths, lightly dampen it with water and wipe down the cabinets to get the worst of the grime off. You may need to do this a couple of times if they are really manky. Leave the cabinets for around thirty minutes to allow any moisture to evaporate (there really shoudn't be much at all if the cloth has been lightly dampened).

    Step 2:

    Once you are happy that the surfaces are dry, take one of your Magic Erasers (do not wet it) and gently rub it too and fro along the grain (not across it), beginning in a corner and gradually working your way towards its opposite number, remembering to work along the grain, this is important. Repeat this procedure until you have worked your way across the entire face from top to bottom and edge to edge. The Magic Eraser will collect dust in the sponge pores as you do this so gently and regulary knock the excess off the sponge and into a bin, a light flick with your forefinger will suffice. Eventually you will need to use the opposite and clean side of the Magic Eraser as the working side can get very dirty. You may get through several of these things so be sure to order two or three packs.

    Once you have worked the entire surface, wipe the excess dust off with one of your soft, clean cloths and examine the surface of the veneer. You are likely to need to repeat this step two or three tinmes depending on how manky the finish was to begin with. Eventually you will notice that the finish is clean and very, very smooth to the touch. Be sure to check that the finish is even, if not redo the areas which may need a little more elbow grease in the same manner. Repeat this step until all faces of the cabinet are clean and smooth.

    n.b. Magic Eraser is so gentle there is little danger of wearing through the veneer unless you intend rubbing the same spot for hours on end. You still need to be careful on cabinet edges however so be alert here.

    Step 3:

    It is imperative before beginning this step that no dust is left on the surface so wipe with a soft, clean cloth and be sure to blow across the surface to remove the last vestiges of dust.

    Apply the Danish Oil as per manufacturers instructions until you have achieved a finish and colour depth which suits you. Once the desired finish has been achieved take your cork sanding block, laying it flat, and rigerously buff the finished surfaces, applying as much pressure as you are able. The longer you buff the better the finish. Repeat this step for each surface until you are happy with the finish.

    Finally, polish each face with a soft, clean cloth or ideally a microfibre example. You will be left with a superb finish to your speakers which will look like a million bucks
    Last edited by synsei; 10-09-2014 at 22:26.

  2. #2
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

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    Nice article Dave. It should be of use to many.

    Just a little point, before using Danish Oil (or other finishing oils), it may be best to try and establish what type of adhesive the veneer was applied with. Solvent based glues like most contact adhesives may soften if subjected to oils and the veneer could lift.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  3. #3
    synsei Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Nice article Dave. It should be of use to many.

    Just a little point, before using Danish Oil (or other finishing oils), it may be best to try and establish what type of adhesive the veneer was applied with. Solvent based glues like most contact adhesives may soften if subjected to oils and the veneer could lift.
    Good point Geoff, thanks

  4. #4
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

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    I like using 'white polish' followed by a good waxing, but I'd not necessarily recommend that for everybody, as its takes plenty of practice to get right.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  5. #5
    Join Date: Mar 2012

    Location: Gloucestershire

    Posts: 3,377
    I'm Paul.

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    Danish Oil is not always the best thing to use because of the solvents so Geoff's advice is sound.

    Also, you have to be extra careful and try not to sand old veneers too much as many are only 0.6 to 1mm thick and it wont take much over exuberance to thin them down too much or even go through them. 160 Grit is as coarse as should be used really.

    Once sanded, if a light coat of Danish is used just to bring the grain out a little, then left overnight a light buff with a Scotchbright pastic based scouring pad is all that is needed...no sanding required. Then to get a lustre to the shine and to protect against UV fading the timber if in sunlight, a top finishing coat of this stuff is recommended:

    http://www.generalfinishes.co.uk/ind...ID=27&PID=1173

    This is water based and will leave a tough, UV resistant light gloss finish for professional results (semi gloss, satin or full gloss versions available). It's water based too so no nasty solvents.

    An alternative to Danish oil is Liberon Finishing Oil or a Colron Tung based finishing oil.

  6. #6
    synsei Guest

    Default

    No speakers were harmed with sandpaper during this production...

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