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Location: Athens
Posts: 268
I'm Dimitris.
Below the answer box there is an option that reads "Manage Attachments"
This is where you upload you photos, and then you can insert them inline
Location: Rutland
Posts: 29
I'm Andy.
Pitch short.jpg
Switch1.jpg
Pitch control shorted and the power switch being used to switch the strobe lamps.
first mods done!
A
CONGRATS!
SS
CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10
VALVE
PRE Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker
Good luck Andy and enjoy the ride
Good to hear yet another Technics is getting the attention they deserve and it it will be nice to read from about your development Andy!
Location: Rutland
Posts: 29
I'm Andy.
I have read a few posts on here where people have used some sort of mastic between the top plate and the middle plate. Now I can see the reason this would make things more solid but Im not ready to do that with my deck yet.
I was wondering about using a sheet of foam sandwiched between the plates. Maybe an acoustic foam. It would fill in the gaps nicely and though it would not give as solid a fill it may be better than nothing??
Anyone have any thoughts on this? I may not do it to my deck just yet as I have a few tweeks left to do first.
A
It would have to be pretty thin as the screws which hold the inner metal chassis are only approx10mm long and these fit the plinth and inner metal chassis very closely together it would also have to be something that moulded pretty well. I would also caution on TOO MUCH dampening as it can rob some of the vitality out of the 1210.
SS
CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10
VALVE
PRE Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker
Location: Rutland
Posts: 29
I'm Andy.
Tweeks so far!
As allways, Don’t mess about with things you don’t understand, electricity kills, not just mains electricity, a shock from a capacitor can easily stop your heart. If you don’t know what your doing let someone else do it for you!!!
I have managed over the last couple of weeks to get a few things done to my deck. It has been a challenge between playing with the kids and work!
I have removed the transformer and started to make an external PSU as per the thread on here. I have managed to find a Hammond box that everything fits in, including the mains filter.
As you can see the transformer is bolted through its rubber mounts to a sheet of veroboard, I have cut a hole in the board to take the winding and reinforced the veroboard with some soldered wire.
The veroboard still has some flex but it is a lot stronger than before.
The rest of the PSU is on veroboard, not the neatest but works and more importantly it fits in the box.
I love these mains inlet filters, one hole and you get a switch, inlet, both L and N fused and a filter! Saves time and makes a difference.
I have used a shielded mains cable from the 13A plug top to the IEC inlet and used the same cable to the deck. As allways all cables and mains voltage gear has been PAT tested and checked over with a Megger insulation tester.
Im getting a nice voltage out of the PSU
I have also received a special package in the post from j7!!!
So bearing cleaned and oiled and re-seated on an O ring. I have also removed plastic motor cover. The platter now spins a lot more freely, honestly hadn’t realised how thick the old oil was.
J7 has also rewired my arm with cardas 33ga, foam packed the arm, checked the bearings and sorted the external cable! Very impressed with the work done. Compared with the original arm the foam packing has made a lot of difference to the resonance, rather dead sounding now.
So we are nearly back together and ready to run in!
System; Michell Gyrodec SE/ Orbe Clamp/ Gert Pedersen armboard mod/ HR PSU/ SME V / J7 Tonearm cable/Ortofon Cadenza Black// Jez Arkless Turbo nutter B------ /Trichord Dino+
Amplification and loudspeaker set up is at the moment being split into two groups, comprising the following;
1. Same sources as above; SONY TAF-770ES/SONY CDP761E/Cable Talk 3.1 loudspeakercable/ Harbeth Compact7ES2/ Stands
2. Virtue Audio Sensation M451battery PSU, ClarityCaps upgrade/ Sensation M901/Russian PIO caps with Teflon bypass caps upgrade/ JT Dynamic PSU with various tweaks/ Connex Audio 5N Litz loudspeaker cable, Impulse H6 Loudspeakers.
Me so horny- Impulse H6 Horny
Location: Athens
Posts: 268
I'm Dimitris.
Nice slippers And socks
Nice job by the way