+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 38

Thread: To Spike or not to Spike?

  1. #1
    Join Date: Sep 2013

    Location: London

    Posts: 309
    I'm Bob.

    Default To Spike or not to Spike?

    Some aspects of Hi-Fi are so ingrained in our psyche that we accept their existence without challenge. Spikes are a case in point. Who in their right mind would be stupid enough not to use spikes on a speaker.

    A few weeks ago I was at a friend’s recording studio in Bedford. He was showing off his latest acquisition, a pair of Dynaudio M1.5 speakers. To my surprise these were mounted on sponge bases, not spikes (sacrilege). When I asked him why he said that everybody uses sponge. The reason being that they stopped any vibrations in the cabinet being transferred through the mixing desk and muddying up the midrange.

    Always being one to experiment I got my old Kef Cresta’s out of the loft and tried them on sponges. Half expecting them to sound awful I was surprised as to just how good they sounded. The midrange was indeed less muddy, quite spacious in fact. I put the spikes back in and remembered why I had put them in the loft in the first place. They sounded dull and lifeless. Placing them back on sponges they were a completely different speaker. I listened to them for hours. Even the wife noticed the difference and that’s saying something. She preferred the sound they made on sponges.

    Anybody else tried this?

  2. #2
    Join Date: Sep 2012

    Location: East Anglia UK

    Posts: 1,219
    I'm Marc.

    Default

    Coupling vs Decoupling is a fairly contested and apparently not definitively understood aspect of speaker mounting.

    I think the ideal solution is fairly context dependent. If it were a suspended wood floor I'd think I'd be looking to decouple (so the floor doesn't act as a boom box) indeed I have in the past on these surfaces used a paving slab with a couple of layers of carpet underneath and put the stand on those. On a solid concrete floor I'd be looking to couple the speakers to it (as the mass of the floor is probably sufficient to absorb the lowest frequency energy that may not be absorbed by the stand itself).

    There's some useful 'leaping off' points for considering the various elements at work here: http://www.ecoustics.com/electronics...io/630091.html

  3. #3
    Join Date: Sep 2013

    Location: London

    Posts: 309
    I'm Bob.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rothchild View Post
    Coupling vs Decoupling is a fairly contested and apparently not definitively understood aspect of speaker mounting.

    I think the ideal solution is fairly context dependent. If it were a suspended wood floor I'd think I'd be looking to decouple (so the floor doesn't act as a boom box) indeed I have in the past on these surfaces used a paving slab with a couple of layers of carpet underneath and put the stand on those. On a solid concrete floor I'd be looking to couple the speakers to it (as the mass of the floor is probably sufficient to absorb the lowest frequency energy that may not be absorbed by the stand itself).

    There's some useful 'leaping off' points for considering the various elements at work here: http://www.ecoustics.com/electronics...io/630091.html
    Thanks Marc, an interesting read. I’ll have to do some more experimenting.

  4. #4
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Torquay

    Posts: 2,719
    I'm Craig.

    Default

    Some time back, following a similar debate about coupling etc, I removed the spikes on my FB 1's and replaced them with some simple self adhesive pads, the sort you get from those cheap £1 type shops, and then put them onto the granite blocks again, to my ears it was an improvement.
    Bluesound Node 2i
    Audio Analogue Pucinni SE
    B&W DM607 s2
    Chord Shawline X speaker cable
    Klotz ic’s

  5. #5
    Join Date: Sep 2013

    Location: London

    Posts: 309
    I'm Bob.

    Default

    So the debate goes on, spikes or rubber? Hang on; I think I can see a business opportunity here. “RUBBER SPIKES” Everybody wins…………………………….

  6. #6
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Maidstone

    Posts: 977
    I'm James.

    Default

    My speakers are large open baffles on caster wheels. I have always been a fan of coupling with cones.
    After listening t my speakers for six months or so on caster wheels I popped some oak cones under them and everything tightened up and was way more focused and transparent. The mid range was more open and communicative.
    Always interested in the topic .

  7. #7
    Join Date: Feb 2011

    Location: Sarf Lunnon

    Posts: 2,068
    I'm Dave.

    Default

    My speakers came with big arse spikes that screw into the base. They sound good to me.
    In - Tweaked Lenco GL75, Linn Ittok, Ortofon Cadenza Black
    Through - Croft Micro 25 RS LS, power R monoblocks, RIAA R. Ortofon ST-80 SE SUT.
    Along - Tellurium Q Ultra Black cables
    Out - Harbeth SHL5 Plus XD's

    Street photography


    Dave

  8. #8
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Deleted

    Posts: 6,585
    I'm Deleted.

    Default

    Just spike, to the max
    Account Deleted

  9. #9
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    I like castors

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  10. #10
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: fuck off

    Posts: 2,033
    I'm fuckoff.

    Default

    When I first had my ushers, I didn't fit the (cast iron) bases and spikes, when I did, the sound tightened up considerably, made them sound a lot better.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •