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Thread: Rewiring SL-1200 Tonearm

  1. #1
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Denver, Colorado

    Posts: 452
    I'm Jim.

    Default Rewiring SL-1200 Tonearm

    I recently received the parts necessary for re-wiring the Tonearm on my SL-1200Mk2. The internal wire will be replaced by Cardas tonearm wire and the external wire will be an assembly from KAB utilizing their PCB and Cardas Litz coax. This will be a visual guide to that process.

    The guide is in post #5

    Last edited by MartinT; 13-07-2013 at 15:18. Reason: Link added as requested

  2. #2
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 7,281
    I'm AnDreW.

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    Good for you mate looking forward to your tutorial.
    SS CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DAC Caiman SEG+15V PSU DECK 1210 Mat Analog Studio Crystal Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony arm Board Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/Jaeger(low-impedance) connector/3 StageRegs/Recapped PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    Valve PRECroft Epoch(Mega Modded) AMP Sondex S100 SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Reference XO DECK Garrard301 Mat Teunto Bearing 401 Plinth Moldovan Arms 3009/3012(Ikeda Ag wired) PSUEagle+Tachometer MCAg Meister SPU v2 CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ Speaker VdH 6mm Blue IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostage Paradise (4 Box)


  3. #3
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,532
    I'm Ken.

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    Used the same wire on one of my arms - no PCB or interconnects just a continuous run straight through to my Phono stage.
    Just stripped back the coax for the section inside the arm and connected the arm/headshell ground to the coax where it exited the arm and the coax then went to my phono ground post. Worked well.

    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/ProJect based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + AT 33PTG II / AQVOX Phono 2 CI / Pro-Ject Pre Box RS / ESP Active X-Over / Nord MC500 Power Amps/ Modified semi-active Yamaha NS1000M Speakers / Stello CDT100 Transport / NAD M51 DAC.

  4. #4
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 7,281
    I'm AnDreW.

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    I have a very similar setup on my technoarm and it is worth the effort, my philosophy has always been less is more, get rid of what's needed.
    SS CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DAC Caiman SEG+15V PSU DECK 1210 Mat Analog Studio Crystal Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony arm Board Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/Jaeger(low-impedance) connector/3 StageRegs/Recapped PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    Valve PRECroft Epoch(Mega Modded) AMP Sondex S100 SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Reference XO DECK Garrard301 Mat Teunto Bearing 401 Plinth Moldovan Arms 3009/3012(Ikeda Ag wired) PSUEagle+Tachometer MCAg Meister SPU v2 CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ Speaker VdH 6mm Blue IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostage Paradise (4 Box)


  5. #5
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Denver, Colorado

    Posts: 452
    I'm Jim.

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    This is what I started with, a KAB rewire kit (the prepared tonearm wire, fishing wire and damping) and a replacement interconnect with the KAB Technics circuit board. This cable is not on their webpage, it's an all-litz coax of very low capacitance. Call or email Kevin, he will happily make you one.


    I storongly suggest getting the wire kit, the wire itself is prepared - it's cut to length, tinned (which is no small feat on litz wire, and worth the price of admission) and it's covered in a graphite coating to help counteract the triboelectric effect of teflon-covered wire.



    Remove the platter, rest the turntable on something soft or properly supportive, and remove the base. Take a photo of all the screws near their holes, so you can reference the photo when you re-assemble the table.


    This is the bottom of the arm, the screws holding the plastic block (strain relief) need to be removed, and the strain relief as well.
    Remove the metal lid.


    And here is the stock wiring. De-solder the small wires from the PCB.


    Remove the screws from the PCB, and lift gently. The zip-tie needs to be cut, as the ground wire is not going to be removed from the turntable.


    Arrange the groundwire out of the way, as it's going to be connected to the table throughout.

    You can see here that I got a bit ahead of myself, not removing the resin sub-plinth yet. It's actually easier if you do that first.


    Sub-plinth removed.


    The 3 silver screws around the perimeter of the arm hold it in. Remove those and it will easily slide out.


    The arm assembly removed.



    Remove these screws.


    Pull out the headshell collar, but don't pull out the wires!


    De-solder the wires, and place the insulators aside.


    I attached (soldered) the new wire to the old. Gently, without forcing anything, you can fish the new wire through the whole assembly using the old to pull it through.



    When the new wire is through, unsolder the old wire and discard. (Ignore the color difference from the previous photo.)


    Once all the wires are through replace the insulators,


    And re-install the collar. This is very fiddly to solder.


    Cut a few strips of the Cotton and gently stuff down the armtube.


    The wires need to be re-attached on the base.


    Here are all the wires, and the old ground wire. That, like the ground that goes out with the RCA leads remains stock.


    Lay the groundlead back in it's place, the bend of the wire will naturally find it's home again...


    Attach the PCB in place of the old.


    Attach the new wires to the new board.

    This is a great time to check continuity with your meter. If it's all good, start to re-assemble the table.


    I needed to improvise a strain relief, as the new cable will not fit through the original plastic block.


    And it's done!
    Last edited by 6L6; 12-07-2013 at 23:25.

  6. #6
    Join Date: Jan 2012

    Location: Glasgow, UK

    Posts: 1,788
    I'm Tony.

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    Fantastic, thanks.

    Tony

  7. #7
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Lancaster(-ish), UK

    Posts: 16,964
    I'm ChrisB.

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    What a wonderful and comprehensive guide, Jim.
    This is one for 'The Knowledge', I think!

  8. #8
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Denver, Colorado

    Posts: 452
    I'm Jim.

    Default

    I have had a bit of time to listen to the new wiring - and I am very happy I made the change.

    The best way to describe the improvement is 'Cleaner'. The entire signal now seems more intact. No single thing is particularly better or emphasized, it's all better. Highly recommended.

  9. #9
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: Belfast/Northern Ireland/UK

    Posts: 17,376
    I'm Neil.

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    Beautifully done and illustrated


    Regards Neil
    Regards Neil

    System 1 (Living Room) : Vinyl: AMG Giro Turntable, AMG 9W2 Tonearm, AMG Reference Armcable, Air Tight PC3 MC Cartridge PhonoStage: Passlabs Xono Digital: Esoteric P5 SACD Transport and Esoteric P 5 DAC, Sony HAP Z1es Digital File Player + Audioquest Jitter Bug, Computer Audio: Veracity Audio Mystra DAC + HP laptop + iFi Audio i Power, Wireworld Starlight USB + Audioquest Jitter Bug Tuner:Revox B760 + Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth FM Amplifier Cassette Tape: Nakamichi CR5e Integrated Amplifier: Balanced Audio Technology VK300se Speakers: Anthony Gallo Reference 3.1 Audio Cabling: Signal - Atlas Mavros, Audience AU24 Speaker - Atlas Mavros. Mains Cabling: Audience AU24, Analysis Plus, TCI. Mains Distribution: Mark Grant Distribution Blocks, Mark Grant DC Blocker Equipment Tables: Target Audio B series + Track Audio Isolation Spikes Isolation/ Platforms: Bright Star Audio Isonodes, BASE 01, SSC Platforms.

    System 2 (Music Room) : Vinyl: Turntable 1 Loricraft Garrard 401 Turntable + SME 5 Tonearm, Graham IC70 Tonearm Cable + VDH MC10 cartridge Turntable 2 Modified Technics 1200 turntable + Triplannar 7 Tonearm + VDH Frog Gold Cartridge + Paul Hynes SR7 PSU Turntable 3 SME Model 20 Turntable + Graham Phantom Tonearm + Graham IC70 Tonearm Cable, Ortofon MC5200 Cartridge PhonoStage: Balanced Audio Technology VK10se Digital: Moon Andromeda CD Player, Toshiba 9500 DVD Audio Player Computer Audio: AMR DP777 DAC + Dell Laptop + iFi Audio i Power + JKenny JKSPIDIF + Wireworld Starlight USB Tuners: Kenwood 8300 Tuner, Revox B760 Tuner, Leak Troughline Tuner + EAR Stereo Decoder ReelToReel Tape: Revox B77 mk 2, Revox A77 mk3, Sony TC-377 Cassette Tape: Nakamichi DR10 Headphone: Audio Valve RKV2 OTL Valve Headphone Amp, Headphones Grado GS 1000, Sennheiser 560 Ovation2, Sennheiser 410SL Pre-Amplifier: Balanced Audio Technology VK52se Power-Amplifier: Music Reference RM200 mk1 Speakers: Anthony Gallo Reference 3.5 Audio Cabling: Signal - Audience AU24, Kimber KCAG, Audio Note ANVs, Barry Hunt Cables Speaker - XLO Type 6. Mains Cabling: Audience AU24, TCI. Mains Distribution: Mark Grant and Russ Andrews Equipment Tables: Clear Light Audio Aspekt Tacks Isolation/Platform: SSC, Bright Star Audio Isonodes, Naim Frame Record Cleaner: Hanns Audio

  10. #10
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Denver, Colorado

    Posts: 452
    I'm Jim.

    Default

    Update - the phono cable I used is now a catalog item at KABUSA.com

    Look for "Low capacitance all Litz coax" I believe the will be an extra charge for mounting it to the new PCB. Ask Kevin.

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