Teac VRDS

[Jonneville]

So the first (easy) things to try look like mains cable, points and isolation table?

Points make sense seeing as the 25 series came with these...




In the meantime, couldn't resist this photo...



Regards

Jon'.

[Dingdong]

I'm not sure what cable came with the 25. My 7 had a thin bit of 2-core that was soldered directly to the transformer pcb. Repacing it with a bit of Furutech mains cable brought about a small improvement.
Putting it on an old Isoplat also improved things.

[jon1]

Thanks James - it seemed worthwhile writing down the info' so others could benefit. Have you seen this article about reclocking the T1 and T7? http://www.audiocraftersguild.com/AandE/teac-doo.pdf

It was actually after seeing a T7 for sale at Emporium HiFi that rekindled my interest in the VRDS - I was thinking seriously about that T7 then it disappeared from their site so I guess it sold fairly quickly, compared with some of their Sony and Pioneer CDPs which seem to have been for sale for quite some time.

Incidentally, someone has a matching Teac tuner for your T7 for sale on The Wam - it has those four neat allen bolts on the fascia too (which were deleted on the 25).

Curtis Mayfield and Sly & the Family Stone sure sound great on the 25!

David and Tristan - thanks for the clarification about the 10SE. Tristan - is yours modified at all?

Like the 25X John - is it modified and which DAC are you using - does it make it sound significantly better or just different?

Regards

Jon'.

Jonathan the 25x is not modified... the dac i use is a mtech young



jon

[clap]

TEAC VRDS-7 2 x SAA7350GP - SM5840AP VRDS CMK-4 - KSS-240A

TEAC VRDS-8 4 x PCM1702 - SM5843AP VRDS CMK-4.5 - SF-P151 (16 pin)

TEAC VRDS-9 4 x PCM1702 - SM5840AP VRDS CMK-4.2 - KSS-213C

TEAC VRDS-10 2 x Philips TDA1547 - SAA7350 - SM5840AP VRDS CMK-3.2 - KSS-151A

TEAC VRDS-10SE 2 x Philips TDA1547 + 2 x SAA7350 - SM5840 VRDS CMK-3.2 - KSS-151A

TEAC VRDS-15 2 x NSdap FN1242A - SM5843AS1 VRDS CMK-3.2 - KSS-151A

TEAC VRDS-20 2 x Philips TDA1547 - SAA7350 - SM5840 VRDS CMK-3.2 - KSS-151A

TEAC VRDS-25 4 x AD1862N-J - SM5843AP - AD1893JN VRDS CMK-3.2 - KSS-151A

TEAC VRDS-25X 4 x AD1862N-J - SM5843AP - AD1893JN VRDS CMK-3.2 - KSS-151A

TEAC VRDS-25XS 4 x AD1862N-J - SM5843AP - AD1893JN VRDS A-type - KSS-151A

TEAC VRDS-50 NSdap FN1241 VRDS CMK-3.2 - KSS-151A

TEAC VRDS-T1 Transport VRDS CMK-4 - KSS-240A


There's less difference between most units than people recall there being. Amazing how easy a metal plate can skew the memory, ;-)

The mechanism in the 10 upwards is part metal inside. I believe the T1 etc was only plastic. It's not just the face plate that is different.

[clap]

Jonathan the 25x is not modified... the dac i use is a mtech young



jon

Young sounds great with my 10se.

[jon1]

Tristan do not be telling every one



jon

[clap]

The dacmagic with VRDS sounded bloody good for the money. In fact, in some ways it sounded more imprsssive than the Young. However, the Young does everything well whereas the dacmagic didn't. The Young is a great buy second hand.

The one thing that is for sure is that transports make a difference. I very rarely use usb into the Young as the VRDS sounds better.

[jon1]

The dacmagic with VRDS sounded bloody good for the money. In fact, in some ways it sounded more imprsssive than the Young. However, the Young does everything well whereas the dacmagic didn't. The Young is a great buy second hand.

The one thing that is for sure is that transports make a difference. I very rarely use usb into the Young as the VRDS sounds better.

Good transport then?or is that a great transport..with the young dac?


jon

[clap]

It's great, no doubts. The one bit of kit I wouldn't think of changing.

I could imagine selling the Gyorbe, or my Classe power amp, or speakers but not the VRDS. When it goes I can see me having to get an Esoteric, but, they are stupid money so I will put that off for as long as possible.

[nat8808]

If we're talking about the transport mechanism ALONE, I think the T1, VRDS 7,8 and 9 are vastly overpriced and don't deserve the VRDS name really..

The rigid clamp bit isn't really there because the platter is flimsy plastic and the motor it is run by is a cheap £3 motor mounted on a flexible (compared to the others) flat sheet of steel. There will be give in the motor as the spindle the CD is pushed against will move the motors cheap bearings.

It's those with metal platters that really can be considered VRDS. Also these have motor systems like direct drive turntables with the platter becoming part of the motor and large coils mounted on the cross beam. The thrust plate is large and is the 3-screw thing you can see on cross beam.

Whether the ABS plastic cross beam is better than the previous cast metal one, I don't know..

The Wadia you were thinking of is probably the Wadia 7. Before that, there was a model almost exactly the same but with a different shape metal crossbeam - the Wadia 2000.

The Wadia 2000 was built upon Teac's pro brand, TASCAM's studio CD player the CD701.

These are, I think, the best VRDS bargains out there. I got mine for £150 fully working etc, a wired full featured remote another £50.

Here's the inside of one:



and the Wadia 2000:



And the droolsome Wadia 7 (same but for the shape of the crossbeam):