+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 81

Thread: Heybrook 'TT2'

  1. #11
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,614
    I'm Shane.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post

    You've got your work cut out with that one!

    Marco.
    No, I disagree. The major parts of the TT2 were very substantial and unstressed, so I can't really think of anything that's likely to have suffered that much other than cosmetically. If it's had a really heavy bash then I guess the sub-platter could wobble on top of the spindle, but that could be dealt with. The only thing I can think of that would be a real problem would be if any of the rubber spring mountings needed replacing. They were specially moulded for the TT2 and would be hard to replicate.
    The only parts that would be subject to wear would be the motor, belt and bearing. The motor could be replaced with a DC jobbie, a swift call to Heybrook will procure a belt (I bought one last year, so they're still around), and as I said above, in the unlikely event of the bearing needing replacing, any competent engineering shop could knock up a new one. I could let you know more details of the bearing construction if need be, although I don't have the original drawings. Should have kept them when I left...

  2. #12
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 91,519
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Hi Shane,

    You're right, of course - I simply meant in a cosmetic sense. It's so bashed and scratched looking that I couldn't ever have something like that in my system (I like my gear to look pristine) but I'm sure Andre is very capable of sorting it out!

    Me? That's a different matter entirely. I'm not exactly 'Mr D.I.Y', hence why I made my original comment!

    Marco.
    To be scientific is to take into account all of reality, not to be selectively inattentive to the inconvenient -- Pharos 2019.

  3. #13
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Posts: 505

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shane View Post
    No, I disagree. The major parts of the TT2 were very substantial and unstressed, so I can't really think of anything that's likely to have suffered that much other than cosmetically. If it's had a really heavy bash then I guess the sub-platter could wobble on top of the spindle, but that could be dealt with. The only thing I can think of that would be a real problem would be if any of the rubber spring mountings needed replacing. They were specially moulded for the TT2 and would be hard to replicate.
    The only parts that would be subject to wear would be the motor, belt and bearing. The motor could be replaced with a DC jobbie, a swift call to Heybrook will procure a belt (I bought one last year, so they're still around), and as I said above, in the unlikely event of the bearing needing replacing, any competent engineering shop could knock up a new one. I could let you know more details of the bearing construction if need be, although I don't have the original drawings. Should have kept them when I left...
    Ok landed this morning.It's one of the first ones with the metal welded cross suspension frame.Unit number:'532'...I've had it running & the motors in perfect nick, very strong when you grab the pulley when running.I've had a new belt in a bag for about 8 years so that's no problem.The bearings in perfect nic, infact like new..although the original owner obviously has no respect for his gear he's kept the bearing over oiled if anything.The only thing i was worried about was damage to the name plate by the power switch but it's just a couple of white gloss paint specs that can easily removed, always made me wonder why people persist on keeping there equipment out while they decorating the house.

    Rubber mounts seem ok, i got them soaking in soapy water now, no cracks just a bit dirty, springs seem fine, i'll measure them against linn springs but i think the lins may be a lot stiffer than the Heybrooks..Sized & ordered all polished stainless steel bolts to replace the rust mild steel ones for a nice touch...

    Need a new armboard.This will be laminated with shiney black acrylic for a classy touch.That's it really not a massive job, couple week's hard at it should do the trick.Platter & lid will take the largest amount of time.These lids are hard perspex & take a lot of effort getting scratches out.


    Stay tooned folks.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,614
    I'm Shane.

    Default

    Did you check the positions of the springs before you took them off? You have to juggle with their rotation to get an even bounce. Most TT2s left the factory with a red line drawn down each spring and a little triangular sticker stuck on the chassis next to each spring. If they're still there, then bob's your uncle. If not, then a bit of trial-and-error will be called for.

    There's no point in comparing the spring-lengths with Linn springs, they were completely different. The Linn's much heavier mazak platter means that their springs were much harder than ours. Incidentally we did try out a platter and sub-platter made from the same alloy as the Linn's but it killed the sound completely. Slow, dull and boring.

    If you need a new lid, they were bought in from Linn, as were the felt mats.

  5. #15
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Posts: 505

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shane View Post
    Did you check the positions of the springs before you took them off? You have to juggle with their rotation to get an even bounce. Most TT2s left the factory with a red line drawn down each spring and a little triangular sticker stuck on the chassis next to each spring. If they're still there, then bob's your uncle. If not, then a bit of trial-and-error will be called for.

    There's no point in comparing the spring-lengths with Linn springs, they were completely different. The Linn's much heavier mazak platter means that their springs were much harder than ours. Incidentally we did try out a platter and sub-platter made from the same alloy as the Linn's but it killed the sound completely. Slow, dull and boring.

    If you need a new lid, they were bought in from Linn, as were the felt mats.
    Yeh no worries Shane all noted, the stickers are still there.Aye the hinges & hinge pockets are Linn aswell, later Ariston, Logics etc all used the same hinges.I think a clear lid would look better than the smoked one.Trouble being the Linn lids these days seem to be of shitty quality than older ones, i noticed this & the recess for the Linn badge looks smaller than the Heybrook lid badge.No worries about the springs they look fine, as you say the platters not as heavy as the linns so shouldn't have put too much stress on them over the years.

  6. #16
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Near Accrington, Lancs, UK

    Posts: 307
    I'm Ralph.

    Default

    Is this what you made the frame for then big boy?
    Ralph.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Posts: 505

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CornishPasty View Post
    Is this what you made the frame for then big boy?
    No Ralph but the idea did pass my mind..Things arn't going to plan with this Heybrook because of how it's constructed.My brains presently on fire at the moment...
    Last edited by Vinyl Grinder; 20-02-2008 at 22:18. Reason: Spelling correction.

  8. #18
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,614
    I'm Shane.

    Default

    Just out of interest, what are yoy trying to do with it?

  9. #19
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Posts: 505

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shane View Post
    Just out of interest, what are yoy trying to do with it?
    Hi Shane

    Needs re-veneering as it's un savable.I'm not a fan of veneer as it is, i think it cheap shite to be honest. I'm gonna replicate surround in solid hardwood.I'm a fussy bugger, qwality is very improtant to me.

  10. #20
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,614
    I'm Shane.

    Default

    Shouldn't be too hard. The veneered bit is just stuck round the outside to hide the innards and support the lid. It's the four layers of chipboard inside that do the work. Don't forget to put the arm-cable clamping block back in the right place.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •