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Thread: Heybrook 'TT2'

  1. #11
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,713
    I'm Shane.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post

    You've got your work cut out with that one!

    Marco.
    No, I disagree. The major parts of the TT2 were very substantial and unstressed, so I can't really think of anything that's likely to have suffered that much other than cosmetically. If it's had a really heavy bash then I guess the sub-platter could wobble on top of the spindle, but that could be dealt with. The only thing I can think of that would be a real problem would be if any of the rubber spring mountings needed replacing. They were specially moulded for the TT2 and would be hard to replicate.
    The only parts that would be subject to wear would be the motor, belt and bearing. The motor could be replaced with a DC jobbie, a swift call to Heybrook will procure a belt (I bought one last year, so they're still around), and as I said above, in the unlikely event of the bearing needing replacing, any competent engineering shop could knock up a new one. I could let you know more details of the bearing construction if need be, although I don't have the original drawings. Should have kept them when I left...

  2. #12
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Hi Shane,

    You're right, of course - I simply meant in a cosmetic sense. It's so bashed and scratched looking that I couldn't ever have something like that in my system (I like my gear to look pristine) but I'm sure Andre is very capable of sorting it out!

    Me? That's a different matter entirely. I'm not exactly 'Mr D.I.Y', hence why I made my original comment!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

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  3. #13
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Posts: 505

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    Quote Originally Posted by shane View Post
    No, I disagree. The major parts of the TT2 were very substantial and unstressed, so I can't really think of anything that's likely to have suffered that much other than cosmetically. If it's had a really heavy bash then I guess the sub-platter could wobble on top of the spindle, but that could be dealt with. The only thing I can think of that would be a real problem would be if any of the rubber spring mountings needed replacing. They were specially moulded for the TT2 and would be hard to replicate.
    The only parts that would be subject to wear would be the motor, belt and bearing. The motor could be replaced with a DC jobbie, a swift call to Heybrook will procure a belt (I bought one last year, so they're still around), and as I said above, in the unlikely event of the bearing needing replacing, any competent engineering shop could knock up a new one. I could let you know more details of the bearing construction if need be, although I don't have the original drawings. Should have kept them when I left...
    Ok landed this morning.It's one of the first ones with the metal welded cross suspension frame.Unit number:'532'...I've had it running & the motors in perfect nick, very strong when you grab the pulley when running.I've had a new belt in a bag for about 8 years so that's no problem.The bearings in perfect nic, infact like new..although the original owner obviously has no respect for his gear he's kept the bearing over oiled if anything.The only thing i was worried about was damage to the name plate by the power switch but it's just a couple of white gloss paint specs that can easily removed, always made me wonder why people persist on keeping there equipment out while they decorating the house.

    Rubber mounts seem ok, i got them soaking in soapy water now, no cracks just a bit dirty, springs seem fine, i'll measure them against linn springs but i think the lins may be a lot stiffer than the Heybrooks..Sized & ordered all polished stainless steel bolts to replace the rust mild steel ones for a nice touch...

    Need a new armboard.This will be laminated with shiney black acrylic for a classy touch.That's it really not a massive job, couple week's hard at it should do the trick.Platter & lid will take the largest amount of time.These lids are hard perspex & take a lot of effort getting scratches out.


    Stay tooned folks.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,713
    I'm Shane.

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    Did you check the positions of the springs before you took them off? You have to juggle with their rotation to get an even bounce. Most TT2s left the factory with a red line drawn down each spring and a little triangular sticker stuck on the chassis next to each spring. If they're still there, then bob's your uncle. If not, then a bit of trial-and-error will be called for.

    There's no point in comparing the spring-lengths with Linn springs, they were completely different. The Linn's much heavier mazak platter means that their springs were much harder than ours. Incidentally we did try out a platter and sub-platter made from the same alloy as the Linn's but it killed the sound completely. Slow, dull and boring.

    If you need a new lid, they were bought in from Linn, as were the felt mats.

  5. #15
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Posts: 505

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    Quote Originally Posted by shane View Post
    Did you check the positions of the springs before you took them off? You have to juggle with their rotation to get an even bounce. Most TT2s left the factory with a red line drawn down each spring and a little triangular sticker stuck on the chassis next to each spring. If they're still there, then bob's your uncle. If not, then a bit of trial-and-error will be called for.

    There's no point in comparing the spring-lengths with Linn springs, they were completely different. The Linn's much heavier mazak platter means that their springs were much harder than ours. Incidentally we did try out a platter and sub-platter made from the same alloy as the Linn's but it killed the sound completely. Slow, dull and boring.

    If you need a new lid, they were bought in from Linn, as were the felt mats.
    Yeh no worries Shane all noted, the stickers are still there.Aye the hinges & hinge pockets are Linn aswell, later Ariston, Logics etc all used the same hinges.I think a clear lid would look better than the smoked one.Trouble being the Linn lids these days seem to be of shitty quality than older ones, i noticed this & the recess for the Linn badge looks smaller than the Heybrook lid badge.No worries about the springs they look fine, as you say the platters not as heavy as the linns so shouldn't have put too much stress on them over the years.

  6. #16
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Near Accrington, Lancs, UK

    Posts: 307
    I'm Ralph.

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    Is this what you made the frame for then big boy?
    Ralph.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Posts: 505

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    Quote Originally Posted by CornishPasty View Post
    Is this what you made the frame for then big boy?
    No Ralph but the idea did pass my mind..Things arn't going to plan with this Heybrook because of how it's constructed.My brains presently on fire at the moment...
    Last edited by Vinyl Grinder; 20-02-2008 at 22:18. Reason: Spelling correction.

  8. #18
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,713
    I'm Shane.

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    Just out of interest, what are yoy trying to do with it?

  9. #19
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Posts: 505

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    Quote Originally Posted by shane View Post
    Just out of interest, what are yoy trying to do with it?
    Hi Shane

    Needs re-veneering as it's un savable.I'm not a fan of veneer as it is, i think it cheap shite to be honest. I'm gonna replicate surround in solid hardwood.I'm a fussy bugger, qwality is very improtant to me.

  10. #20
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,713
    I'm Shane.

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    Shouldn't be too hard. The veneered bit is just stuck round the outside to hide the innards and support the lid. It's the four layers of chipboard inside that do the work. Don't forget to put the arm-cable clamping block back in the right place.

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