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Thread: 2nd hand, DIY and luvvin it!

  1. #11
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...

    Posts: 14,535
    I'm David.

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    The way to check the main bearing is to remove the outer platter and belt. Hold the sub chassis/top plate (in a TD125) with one hand, place palm on the top of the inner platter and *gently* try to rock it. The early AR "The Turntable" as well as the later XB77 model also suffered compared to the earlier XA/XB model. Any slight rocking will be clearly felt if it's an issue. The 150 didn't seem to suffer so and only early 160's had this issue too I remember, but the 125mk2 and many 126's did suffer for some reason. Having heard just how much better the AR Legand model was - main difference was a newly tooled main bearing - I think a TD125 would benefit hugely too from attention here.

    All is not lost though. My favourite hypoid EP80 gear oil - available in two slight differences of viscosity I believe (in Halfords) is great for such bearings and it's also been suggested that a dab of LM grease in between the bearing sleeves helps close the gap and helps prevent rocking, although for a "wobbly" Thorens I'd suggest part filling the housing a la Linn but with gear oil (not sure if the thicker EP90 is still available) - Thorens used a high speed turbine oil I understand which is like a light viscosity version of EP80 and this lubricates the bearing tip well.

    Hope this ramble makes some sense.
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
    Crying out at the top of my voice; Tell me now if you can hear me

  2. #12
    Join Date: Jul 2011

    Location: lancashire

    Posts: 284
    I'm mike.

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    Well I did say that I'd got hold of a Lenco GL75, one that Dantheman was selling here a while back. Anyhow as it weren't a day for getting the bike out I did a bit of final work and soldered it all together and as the french say.....voila!
    I tried to do this one using whatever was in the cupboard so the only thing bought was a 5x5 sheet of birch ply.
    The pan was cut out of the TT to leave this:





    With the the new plinth built the remains dropped in a treat. The arm is from my old pro-ject 6 TT and sports an Ortofon 2m blue.
    I've had to reset the speed slots as this is one of the rarer 110/220 motors that were made for the forces abroad, when I rebuilt the motor it was wired for 110 so of course it would run faster than for the 220 setting
    The old chestnut of getting the tracking angle was close but not close enough. Transfi's resomat is probably 2-3mm thicker than the stock mat and did the job.




    I've just finished playing Gordon Lightfoots 'If you could read my mind' and i am definitlely feeling positive and looking forward to a direct comparison with the TD150......time for a glass of red methinks





  3. #13
    Join Date: Sep 2010

    Location: High Peak, Derbyshire

    Posts: 2,241
    I'm Keith.

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    Wow - looks great Mike.
    Keith
    Analogue: Lenco L75 with 'PTP5' top plate in heavy birch ply plinth/re-wired Rega RB300/SAE 1000e HOMC Cartridge/Trans-Fi Reso-Mat/Moth RCM
    Files: Voyage MPD/Custom PC/Supra USB/Beresford ASYNCH-1/Beresford TOSlink cable
    CDP: Inca Katana SE
    DAC: Beresford Caiman MkII (LiPo Battery powered)
    Pre-Amp: Croft Micro 25 Power-Amp: Croft Series 7
    Speakers: DIY Frugel-Horn Mk3 ('FH3') + REL Strata subwoofer
    Headphones: Beyer Dynamics DT990 Pro (250 ohm)/Schiit Asgard Headphone Amp
    Cables - Interconnects: Mark Grant G1000HD Speaker Cables: Van Damme Blue
    Mains: Belkin PF30/Mark Grant DSP2.5 & DSP1.0 Rack: Target

    Office System: HP Win8 Laptop/JRiver/MF V-Link2/Beresford Bushmaster MkII/Topping TP20 Mk2/Mission 771e
    Bedroom System: Raspberry Pi/Raspbrian + MPD/HiFiBerry DAC/Topping TP20 Mk2/Mission 760i or DIY Hybrid Valve-MOSFET Headphone amp + Sennheiser HD595


    Gallery

  4. #14
    Join Date: Jul 2011

    Location: lancashire

    Posts: 284
    I'm mike.

    Default

    Thanks Keith, I bought Robs electrocompaniet phono stage to go with it. Looking forward to plugging it all together later this week. Whoopee!

    Apart from the tracking angle I think the resomat suits the Lenco, how do you find it?
    And no its not "Oh I lifted up an LP and there it was"

  5. #15
    Join Date: Sep 2010

    Location: High Peak, Derbyshire

    Posts: 2,241
    I'm Keith.

    Default

    Like you, I think the Reso-mat works very well on the Lenco.
    Keith
    Analogue: Lenco L75 with 'PTP5' top plate in heavy birch ply plinth/re-wired Rega RB300/SAE 1000e HOMC Cartridge/Trans-Fi Reso-Mat/Moth RCM
    Files: Voyage MPD/Custom PC/Supra USB/Beresford ASYNCH-1/Beresford TOSlink cable
    CDP: Inca Katana SE
    DAC: Beresford Caiman MkII (LiPo Battery powered)
    Pre-Amp: Croft Micro 25 Power-Amp: Croft Series 7
    Speakers: DIY Frugel-Horn Mk3 ('FH3') + REL Strata subwoofer
    Headphones: Beyer Dynamics DT990 Pro (250 ohm)/Schiit Asgard Headphone Amp
    Cables - Interconnects: Mark Grant G1000HD Speaker Cables: Van Damme Blue
    Mains: Belkin PF30/Mark Grant DSP2.5 & DSP1.0 Rack: Target

    Office System: HP Win8 Laptop/JRiver/MF V-Link2/Beresford Bushmaster MkII/Topping TP20 Mk2/Mission 771e
    Bedroom System: Raspberry Pi/Raspbrian + MPD/HiFiBerry DAC/Topping TP20 Mk2/Mission 760i or DIY Hybrid Valve-MOSFET Headphone amp + Sennheiser HD595


    Gallery

  6. #16
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,928
    I'm Martin.

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    That looks a million dollars. Great job.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Jul 2011

    Location: lancashire

    Posts: 284
    I'm mike.

    Default

    Thanks Macca. Now, what to do next?

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