Garrard 301 - Rotor Spindle Assembly

[Wakefield Turntables]

Guys,

Dont laugh! Can you have a look at the picture I have enclosed. Its a rotor spindle assembly for the 301. I think its knackers, the worn away bits exposing the copper I think give the game away. Am I correct, and does this replacing?
i have also included a side shot of the rotor spindle assembly, again, does the wear and tear look normal?

Andy

[Dominic Harper]

Andy, looks perfectly normal to me.

[Wakefield Turntables]

Dominic,

even though it's worn down to the copper?

[Lodgesound]

There is no contact between the rotor and the stator -just an air gap - what you have there is just normal oxidisation - put it back together and enjoy it working....

[Dominic Harper]

The copper exposed on the end is a production feature. This is how the stator was balanced.

[ninedecks]

Mine looked exactly the same when I last stripped the motor for an oil.
It didn't occur to me that it might not be right. At least you have put my mind at rest, your original post had me worried.
I have a 401 that I also need to attend to, motor wise, I think that I will take the plunge and drill out the rivets.
I know that a kit is available for replacing the rivets but I am wondering whether to use the alternative nut & bolt method.
I follow all of the threads regarding rebuilds, I have learnt a lot.
Good luck.
Dave

[DSJR]

Heck, these things looked like it WHEN NEW!!! At least the humbler relatives made for the mass market models did (I took enough apart back then).

The spindle finish is where you should be at and in my opinion, a little matte finish should hold the oil better than a totally mirror-smooth one - I think..... The sintered bushes may need a 48 hour soak in oil as well, but hopefully there's enough on Garrard motor restoration on the web to tell you what you need to do

[Wakefield Turntables]

Andy, looks perfectly normal to me.

Thanks mate, nice to know somone with more experience has given his ok!

There is no contact between the rotor and the stator -just an air gap - what you have there is just normal oxidisation - put it back together and enjoy it working....

I'm still learning, so thanks for that.

Mine looked exactly the same when I last stripped the motor for an oil.
It didn't occur to me that it might not be right. At least you have put my mind at rest, your original post had me worried.
I have a 401 that I also need to attend to, motor wise, I think that I will take the plunge and drill out the rivets.
I know that a kit is available for replacing the rivets but I am wondering whether to use the alternative nut & bolt method.
I follow all of the threads regarding rebuilds, I have learnt a lot.
Good luck.
Dave

Have you got any links to any threads?

Heck, these things looked like it WHEN NEW!!! At least the humbler relatives made for the mass market models did (I took enough apart back then).

The spindle finish is where you should be at and in my opinion, a little matte finish should hold the oil better than a totally mirror-smooth one - I think..... The sintered bushes may need a 48 hour soak in oil as well, but hopefully there's enough on Garrard motor restoration on the web to tell you what you need to do

I'll try and hunt this down, but not until after chrimbo.

[ninedecks]

It will probably be after the weekend but happy to try and find the various locations (Vinylengine was one that I found).
By the way - and this is a question to Dominic as well - do you find that after an hours continuous play, the motor gets just a tad hot?.
I have the 301 and 401 and they all could fry an egg.
Dave

[DSJR]

"Ordinary" Garrard ones get warm as well.

The 301 and 401 were designed from the outset to run 24/7 in a broadcast environment and often were, so I doubt it's a huge issue and performance may well improve once the motor is warmed through and the idler compound nice and supple. have a look in the library articles here, since there's a bulletin from Garrard which better explains the bearing design and also the uses these decks were designed to be put to.