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Thread: Celestion DL10's - A classic waiting to be appreciated?

  1. #31
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

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    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Black Adder View Post

    Also, the cabling to the speakers looks like decent stuff, is that something to leave alone, it wouldn't take much to change it really.

    Joe,

    I had never ever refurbished a set of speakers until I did the 15xr's. Its very very easy. I dismantled the 15's and just figured out where everything went and took loads of photo's to act as reminders. Recabling the speakers is very very easy. Its just a matter of remembering where the cable goes from the x-o to each driver. I bought a pair of Wharfdale XP3's which have a slightly more complicated x-o than my celestion 15xr's simply because I wanted to understand how the x-o worked (incidently Wikipedia do a good page explaining the various x-o types). Good lucj mate !
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  2. #32
    Join Date: Jul 2010

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    I'm MadeOfDeadGiantStarsThatExplodedEonsAgo.

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    Hi Joe, cheers for the pictures I can confirm that it is indeed the 20uf that you need to change that feeds the midrange unit...

    All the others appear to be parallel with the drivers & while they may well make a small difference to the sound, they'll have nowhere near the effect of the ones in line with the drive units
    Bests, Mark



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  3. #33
    Join Date: Sep 2009

    Location: Derbyshire

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    I'm Josie.

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    Hi Mark.

    I thought I might as well change the lot to be honest seeing as they will be out anyway. Thing is I can't see any 45uf or 8uf caps on hificollective.

    The ones I've found are these, are these ok?

    (CAP-20u600) - 20uF 600V MIEC Axial Electrolytic Capacitor
    (CAP-4u600) - 4uF 600V MIEC Axial Electrolytic Capacitor
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  4. #34
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Glastonbury, UK

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    I'm Chris.

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    8 uF is available in the Clarity Cap SA range:

    http://www.hificollective.co.uk/comp...itycap_sa.html

    47 uF is close enough to 45.
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  5. #35
    Join Date: Jul 2010

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    Hi Joe, i'll have a look about fella You really don't want to be fitting any kind of electrolytic again unless forced to
    Bests, Mark



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  6. #36
    Join Date: Sep 2009

    Location: Derbyshire

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    oh i see.. Ok Mark, thanks.
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  7. #37
    Join Date: Sep 2009

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reid Malenfant View Post
    Hi Joe, i'll have a look about fella You really don't want to be fitting any kind of electrolytic again unless forced to
    Cheers matey, not badly priced either. Do the values have to be identical?
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  8. #38
    Join Date: Aug 2010

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    Hi Joe.

    I’ve not had any problems using higher voltage rated caps as long as the capacitance value is the same; there may even be some benefit with regard to cap life doing this.
    What I think can matter is matching the ESR value.
    Also, when upgrading crossovers, particularly when changing to polypropylene caps people tend to go for tighter tolerance caps and this isn’t necessarily a good thing particularly with speakers that have had some care taken in the listening and tuning process.
    Midrange and hi frequency drivers seem to benefit most from the upgrade to polypropylene caps while the low frequency drivers seem to be happy enough with the speed of decent electrolytics; handy given the price of high capacitance value polypropylene's.

    You can of course shop at Hi Fi Collective, but if you fancy saving yourself a few quid these people are good, know about their stock and sell high quality caps but without the audiophile names and price tags.

    http://www.audiocap.co.uk/400v-polyp...eries-22-c.asp


    So, match capacitance, tolerance and go for something with low ESR values would seem sensible.

    Oh arr, if you're going to hardwire the tufnol boards are excellent, they'll even pre drill and sort the layout for you.

    http://www.qtasystems.co.uk/crossovers.htm
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  9. #39
    Join Date: Nov 2010

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    I'm Andrew.

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    John,

    thanks for the links to the 2 websites, I have book marked them for future projects
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    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

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  10. #40
    Join Date: Feb 2019

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    I'm thomas.

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    My actual first post at the forums so be gentle.
    Sorry for bringing back such an old thread but I believe that old equipment that had more than the average attention of the original designer deserve a little more than collecting dust and rust in a basement.
    I am trying to refurbish for some six months a pair of DL 10 (series one I suppose). Their boxes were fine , added some bitumen pads in several places and new foam, some new screws with inserts holding the drivers in place with inserts on the baffles. Bass and midrange drivers in excellent condition but tweeter missing and was replaced by a cheap no name that threw away. I replaced them with a pair of JBL control 28 spare I found that do the job but something is always missing to my ears.
    Recently I found I pair of original T4816 celestion 1" 1/4" tweeter that hope will sing a lot better than the JBLs.
    So now I'm ready for some rewiring and restoring the crossover which I have a doubt that it is in its' original condition. And that is where my question goes. Can anyone of the above participants of the thread post a pic of the crossover or has the exact values of the capacitors and the white blocks fitted so I an replace the old ones.
    Here's a pic of mine if it helps and thank you in advance.
    please note that theactual name of the speakers is SP9 instead of DL10 but are exactly the same.
    capacitor values 6.8mf , 4.7mf, 22mf and unknown SIEMENS B41020
    Last edited by ranxerox; 04-02-2019 at 08:24.

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