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Thread: The Mike New Bearing Base Plate

  1. #1
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 195
    I'm Mike.

    Default The Mike New Bearing Base Plate

    This article is to visually document on how to install the Mike New Bearing Base Plate into your beloved Technics SL-1200 Mark 2 Turntable. Given that I have twins, I purchased two from Mike. The purpose of this visual article is to give guidance on how to attach the base plate to your TT with very little difficulty. If you have questions about the undertaking of this project, you should always ask for guidance. If there are any conflicts with the answers you get, Mike New (not Mike as in me) has the final say since it is his product.

    I take no responsibility on how your project turns out. Unless of course the results are spectacular , then of course, I take full credit. If you are a DIY'er, you should not have any difficulty, or very little difficulty at most, if you follow the steps outlined.

    This document will be broken up into several sections for clarity.

    The project took me 3 hours to complete for the first TT, 2 hours for the second. I was not in any hurry to complete the project. Your time may vary.

    The tools I used to complete this project is:
    Plyers or wrench - have 2 handy
    Screwdriver and bits
    Drill
    Drill Bits - 5 and 10mm are recommended (yes you will need two different sizes)
    Flashlight - in case you loose them screws somewhere
    Allen or Hex Key
    Smoothing File
    Ruler
    Eye Protection

    If you need to remove the external power supply (which is recommended by Mike New to use his Bearings) you may need the additional parts to remove the wiring:
    Soldering Iron
    Solder
    Solder Remover

    A recommendation someone had was to use clamps to hold the TT in place during drilling. If you have them, you may want to make them available.

    Now with all this said, let the "fun" begin.
    Last edited by CableMaker1; 25-08-2011 at 23:58.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  2. #2
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 195
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    One of the base plates came with the Bearing attached to it as it is shown in picture 1. The other was just the plate itself, but has cutouts drilled to attach the Bearing.

    Unfortunately, if you purchase the Base Plate and Bearing seperate, the Bearings do not have the holes drilled to attach it to the Base Plate. The steps will not change either way, and it will not change the outcome of this project. You can see this in picture 2.

    I drew arrows in the pictures to show where the screws attach the bearing to the plate in pictures 3 and 4.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CableMaker1; 26-08-2011 at 00:00.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  3. #3
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 195
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    It is time to remove the tonearm, the platter, the top cover and the electronics from the TT - having only the chassis exposed. If necessary, desolder the PSU wiring from the circuit board.

    Here is how the TT looks. And as a bonus, there is a close-up area of the Bearing area of how it looks - pre-drilled. Notice how the screw taps are elevated above the bottom of the chassis. This will need to be drilled or "shaved" to where it is leveled to the chassis. This allows the bearing base plate to be flushed to the chassis.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CableMaker1; 26-08-2011 at 00:02.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  4. #4
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 195
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    Now it is time to take your drill and insert the 10mm drill bit into it. Drill the tips of the three bearing taps where it will be shaved down to where it is level to the chassis. It is important to keep an eye out that you do not over-drill (or overshave) the bearing taps. You may want to have a small ruler or something small and level to sweep across the shaved bearing taps. If the ruler does not sweep across the bearing area uniformly, drill accordingly until it does sweep across. You want to insure that the taps are not under-shaved as the idea is to have the bearing base plate flush with the bottom of the chassis. Remember to use optical protection when drilling.

    When drilling is completed, take a smoothing file and shave off any bits left over from the drilling.

    See pics for details.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CableMaker1; 26-08-2011 at 00:03.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  5. #5
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 195
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    This next step will require the use of a 5mm drill bit. I recommend that you screw the bearing base plate into the bearing area using the enclosed black bolts that Mike N. enclosed. This will keep the bearing alligned to the drilling area on the chassis when drilling. I also recommend removing the bottom rubber from the TT before starting this procedure, but keeping the inner cavity attached to chassis.

    Seperating the rubber from the TT insures you will not drill into or through the rubber.

    To keep the chassis stable while drilling, you may want to clamp the chassis and cavity together to keep it steady if you have it at your disposal. I used a round-plastic waste basket, placing the chassis and cavity on top of it while placing the rubber underneath the wastebasket. This worked well for me.

    Now drill into the chassis where the 5mm holes are on the bearing base plate. This is where you removed the 5 screws that came attached to the BBP.

    A special note if you are using a hand-drill bit as opposed to a plunger drill. Try to keep the drill as steady and level as possible when drilling. If you have a bubble-level on your drill as I do, make use of it!!! Again - keep the drill as level as possible during this process. Although allignment is not critical, I feel it is important for this step. We are looking at drilling through two pieces of material which attach to one another, which makes this detail something that should not be overlooked.

    Dont worry if you drill into and through into the cavity. You will want to drill into part into the cavity at a minimum to leave drill marks (in case you decide not to drill all the way through at this time). The drill marks will be used as an outline since you will need to drill into and through the cavity at these spots.

    In the next step, you will drill through the cavity, making bigger holes.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CableMaker1; 26-08-2011 at 00:12.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  6. #6
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 195
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    Now remove the cavity from the chassis. Where you left drill-marks is where you want to drill. You will need the 5 and 10mm drill-bits for this step. Note that in this step, if you have a bubble level avaiable on your drill bit and you are using a manual-drill like I did (as opposed to using not a drill plunger), make use of it to try to keep the drill steady!!! It is important to keep the drill level as best as possible since allignment, although it is not critical, is important since the holes need to be alligned well for the nut to clear when you attach the cavity back to the chassis.

    I recommend that if you did not drill through the cavity when it was attached to the chassis, take the 5mm drill bit and drill until it goes through. Then take the 10mm drill and drill through these same spots making it bigger. Resist using only the 10mm bit to drill through the cavity if you did not drill through using the 5mm bit. Using just the 10mm drill to drill through all the way will take more time to drill through.

    Dont worry if there are only 4 spots to drill into the cavity. The 5th screw may not have moulding around its area as it was in my case - the unmoulded area is the Transformer Area.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CableMaker1; 26-08-2011 at 00:18.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  7. #7
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 195
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    Now take the 5 screws that you removed from the BBP and screw it in from the BBP into the chassis. The screw pattern tightning should be done in a star-pattern for best results.

    When you are finished screwing, you should check to make sure the BBP is flush with the bottom of the chassis. There should be no space or air-gaps. If there are, remove the screws and check to make sure you fully shaved the bearing taps to where they are level to the bottom of the chassis. Remember to use a small flat ruler (or something flat) to check. If the bearing-chassis area is level, then check that the chassis surface is clean and level, and that the bottom of the BBP does not have any debris on it to prevent it from being flush. If all checks out, check your screw pattern.

    If all checks out, attach the cavity back to the chassis. The nuts should clear the new cavity holes that were just made.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CableMaker1; 26-08-2011 at 00:19.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  8. #8
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 195
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    Attach the rubber and feet back to the chassis, making the TT whole again.

    I leave it to you to decide when it's best to attach the tonearm back to the TT - before or after the rubber is attached. When to attach the arm back to the TT can differ from arm-to-arm that you use with the TT. For SME arms, I recommend attaching it back after the chassis is put back together. Those using the stock tonearms may find its best to put the arm back before the rubber is put on - I leave it to your best judgement to decide. Your experience may differ.

    Remove the long black bolts from the BBP (or BBP+Bearing unit). Now attach the Bearing to BBP if they were purchased seperately. The bearing will be attached to the BBP if they both were purchased together. Either way, make sure the black bolts are removed.

    Before placing the circuitry back into place, run the long wire clip that attaches to the top of the PCB as it was before you removed it, so that the wire runs underneath the circuitry.

    Now place the circuitry back into the chassis and solder the DC leads if necessary. Note - this will be a great time to relocate the negative DC cable to the true earth - screw it at the lower left hand corner where the ground cable goes to. Do this if you have not done this already. The instructions provided with the Timestep PSU does not have the DC ground wire located at the optimum area. This is well documented elsewhere on this forum.

    The BBP package will come with 3 spacers and screws which may be brass coloured. These spacers are necessary to use since the PCB will be elevated from the taps. Place these spacers between the taps and screw the PCB with the longer screws provided by Mike New.

    Now screw the black bolts back into the circuitry where the Bearing is. You should be able to screw the bolts all the way so that they are flush with the stator ring. Connect all electrical wiring back to the circuit board.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CableMaker1; 26-08-2011 at 01:31.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  9. #9
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 195
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    Now, if you have not done so already, attach the tonearm.

    If you are using the stock or Mike New platter, attach it first to make sure it is level. If it is not, remove it and check your work - relating to the black bolts, circuit board, stator area, the Bearing, and the BBP areas.

    If all is level, you can attach the black cover that sits below the platter - assuming you are using the stock platter - and then the platter and mat back on the TT.

    If you are using the Mike New Platter, you should leave the black cover off as it can interfere with the platter. (But I am sure you knew that already ).

    Check again to make sure that the platter is level. Adjust accordingly.

    Now that you have your TT back together, adjust the VTA on your tonearm as the new bearing base plate will elevate your platter. I have taken pics but am not sure if it will reveal its elevation.

    If you purchased the Platter together with either the bearing base plate, or BBP + Bearing Combo, Mike New may have made adjustments to your platter so that the platter is even to the chassis surface. If this is the case with your platter, the adjusted platter can only be used with Mike New's bearing base plate and bearing. (I am sure you knew that already.)

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CableMaker1; 26-08-2011 at 00:32.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  10. #10
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 195
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    So how does it sound? Stay tuned tomorrow!!! It is midnight and I have to get to work tomorrow. I am pushing 3 hours spent so far between the picture work and the thread.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

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