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Thread: "old" DAC wanted - any suggestions?

  1. #11
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: West Yorkshire

    Posts: 1,796
    I'm Stephen.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yomanze View Post

    If you or anyone you know is reasonably adept with DIY then you could ask them to locate the DAC's analogue outputs (pin 2 & 26) & from there wire a 51ohm resistor in series followed by an 0.01uF cap (to ground) and from there wire straight to your RCA output sockets. This is from the CS4328 datasheet:
    This config would should show most DACs a clean pair of heels including the Beresford.
    Now that is very interesting. Not sure I would trust myself to do the mod after taking the case off and peeping inside - tiger country!
    If there is anyone reading this who would be willing to do it for me for a small fee plus all parts and shipping costs I would be very keen to try it out

    Thanks for the info.
    Steve
    Last edited by worrasf; 30-05-2011 at 14:30.
    Always a little further

  2. #12
    Join Date: Jul 2009

    Location: stoke-on-trent

    Posts: 647
    I'm andrew.

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    I used to have a DPA Little Bit which was a nice little dac, all the DPA dacs are still worth a shot and Chevron Audio can still service/repair and upgrade them.
    Andy.

  3. #13
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Nottingham

    Posts: 625
    I'm Ian.

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    Quote Originally Posted by worrasf View Post
    There's one of these on Fleabay at the moment (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...ht_2529wt_1141) and

    Steve
    Thats the £2000 2 box PDM2 - rather tham the £500 single box PDM1 series 2

  4. #14
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Sheffield, UK

    Posts: 1,307
    I'm Dave.

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    Hi Steve, I'd be willing to do that mod for you. It seems pretty straight forward based on what it says in the datasheet but the the level of complexity will depend on how much space there is in the CDP and the layout etc. I can certainly have a look and let you know whether I feel I could manage it. PM if you're interested.
    Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.

  5. #15
    Join Date: Apr 2008

    Location: Warrington

    Posts: 3,451
    I'm Neil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy View Post
    Hi Steve, I'd be willing to do that mod for you. It seems pretty straight forward based on what it says in the datasheet but the the level of complexity will depend on how much space there is in the CDP and the layout etc. I can certainly have a look and let you know whether I feel I could manage it. PM if you're interested.
    Nice. Had a look on eBay & there's one player going for £300 with a day of bidding and another at £475 buy it now. Shows this player is very much in demand.

    May I recommend the following components:

    0.01uf MKP-1837 x 2 (0.99c each)
    http://www.partsconnexion.com/capaci...lm_visrod.html

    1/2W 51r PRP resistors x 2 (0.45c each)
    http://www.partsconnexion.com/resist...half_watt.html

    If this does go ahead let me know and I can order these as part of my next order.

  6. #16
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Sheffield, UK

    Posts: 1,307
    I'm Dave.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yomanze View Post
    May I recommend the following components:

    0.01uf MKP-1837 x 2 (0.99c each)
    http://www.partsconnexion.com/capaci...lm_visrod.html

    1/2W 51r PRP resistors x 2 (0.45c each)
    http://www.partsconnexion.com/resist...half_watt.html

    If this does go ahead let me know and I can order these as part of my next order.
    Thanks Neil, I'll take those into consideration if Steve decides to take up my offer. I've not used those resistors before. So far I've had good results with takman metal film and Kiwame carbon film. Have you tried any of these and if so how would you compare them? I'd also be interested to hear your thoughts on tant resistors as although I've used some once I wasn't able to compare them to anything. Cheers.
    Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Apr 2008

    Location: Warrington

    Posts: 3,451
    I'm Neil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy View Post
    Thanks Neil, I'll take those into consideration if Steve decides to take up my offer. I've not used those resistors before. So far I've had good results with takman metal film and Kiwame carbon film. Have you tried any of these and if so how would you compare them? I'd also be interested to hear your thoughts on tant resistors as although I've used some once I wasn't able to compare them to anything. Cheers.
    Hi Takman are as good as PRP IMO & both are non-magnetic, but I tend to use 5W Kiwame (magnetic end caps) for things like tube power supplies & not signal path.

    Regarding tants I have some 220r Shinkohs serving as I/V resistors in my DIY DAC build, but haven't tried them yet! Will let you know.

  8. #18
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Sheffield, UK

    Posts: 1,307
    I'm Dave.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yomanze View Post
    Hi Takman are as good as PRP IMO & both are non-magnetic, but I tend to use 5W Kiwame (magnetic end caps) for things like tube power supplies & not signal path.

    Regarding tants I have some 220r Shinkohs serving as I/V resistors in my DIY DAC build, but haven't tried them yet! Will let you know.
    Thanks, so do you find that non-magnetic end caps make a big difference? It's when you get down to those type of details that my head starts to hurt. It starts to become impossible to compare "features" between brands as while one brand may be non-magnetic, another brand uses a different conductor type or different metal combinations for the leads etc etc. Then as you hinted, some work better in different applications than others. The whole thing drives me mad. I'd be interested to hear any conclusions you've come to from experience in these areas.
    Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.

  9. #19
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: West Yorkshire

    Posts: 1,796
    I'm Stephen.

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    Dave - you have a PM.
    Steve
    Always a little further

  10. #20
    Join Date: Apr 2008

    Location: Warrington

    Posts: 3,451
    I'm Neil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy View Post
    Thanks, so do you find that non-magnetic end caps make a big difference? It's when you get down to those type of details that my head starts to hurt. It starts to become impossible to compare "features" between brands as while one brand may be non-magnetic, another brand uses a different conductor type or different metal combinations for the leads etc etc. Then as you hinted, some work better in different applications than others. The whole thing drives me mad. I'd be interested to hear any conclusions you've come to from experience in these areas.
    I always go for minimal magnetic parts count and use aluminium instead of steel for chassis with brass hardware instead of stainless steel. Some people will of course say that this is bollocks! Others including Avondale Audio & NVA adhere to minimum ferrous parts count.

    Interesting comment here from Nelson Pass:

    "In the past I've been able to see distortion at line level voltages and ma currents for signal lines in proximity to ferrous parts."

    And an interesting post from John Curl: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid...ml#post1514894

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