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Thread: Rogers DW2 Subwoofer Connectivity Advice Please

  1. #1
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: Bedfordshire

    Posts: 16
    I'm Simon.

    Default Rogers DW2 Subwoofer Connectivity Advice Please

    I have just joined the forum to try and find out more about my JR150's and a DW2 Subwoofer. I had a pair of JR149's in the 80's and stupidly let them go.
    I recently regained an interest in getting a sound system again rather than relying on the Pioneer surround for all musical things.
    I saw an advert for the 150's complete with DW2 and on impulse bought them. Now I have to make them work properly.

    I have the 150's connected to a JVC J-SA22 amp. I understand the DW2 should be connected to the amp and the speakers to the DW2.

    The wiring on the DW2 does not have any indication as to what goes where.
    Two chocolate blocks with four off wires each.
    Orange/Green with Yellow trace/ Red with Blue trace/Red

    Can someone point me in the right direction please
    Simon

  2. #2
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Bristol, UK

    Posts: 9,962
    I'm Nick.

    Default

    Hi Simon and welcome to AOS. I'm afraid that I've no experience of the DW2 sub. There are others here who have used one (JacHawk for one). Someone may know the schematics. I'll split this post into another thread where it might attract more specific notice.
    Nick
    My system...


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  3. #3
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: North Cambs UK, Earth, Sol, Orion - Cygnus arm of galaxy

    Posts: 11,166
    I'm MadeOfDeadGiantStarsThatExplodedEonsAgo.

    Default

    Hi Simon, any chance of getting a picture or two up of the connections? I'm just a little lost as to the colour scheme of the cables. If you happen to have a simple multimeter (or a camera & screwdriver ) we can easily work out what's what given a bit of time. It'd make things vastly easier if you could open the thing up by possibly removing a drive unit as well.

    At the end of the day it sounds like the crossover in the sub has a high pass filter that'll feed the left & right speakers. If we can't find any info it's simply a case of establishing the order of the crossover by drawing out the circuit (by you taking a picture or two again ) & then we'll get it sussed for you with little or no problems
    Bests, Mark



    "We must believe in free will. We have no choice" Isaac Bashevis Singer

  4. #4
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: Bedfordshire

    Posts: 16
    I'm Simon.

    Default DW2

    I have attached two photos. To get to the board inside is rather more difficult. Strip off the bottom remove bottom speaker then remove a rather crude chipboard circle. Remove opposing speaker. Reamove foam that is stapled into position. Inside is a foam stuffing that covers the board. Not sure how to get the board out. If required I can strip on the dining room table tommorow.
    Regards
    Simon
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: North Cambs UK, Earth, Sol, Orion - Cygnus arm of galaxy

    Posts: 11,166
    I'm MadeOfDeadGiantStarsThatExplodedEonsAgo.

    Default

    Hi Simon, yes i'd appreciate it if you could strip the thing (this is only for your benefit ) so i can work out what's going on. I'll need detailed pictures of the wires connecting to the boards, the side of the boards with the PCB tracks & the side with the components.

    As long as you give me that i should be able to work out what the proper connections are
    Bests, Mark



    "We must believe in free will. We have no choice" Isaac Bashevis Singer

  6. #6
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: Bedfordshire

    Posts: 16
    I'm Simon.

    Default DW2

    Mark
    Tomorrow I have to put my car back together. Something I am much better at.
    I am a mechanical maintenance engineer by trade. I can handle 3ph and low voltages but once you get down to millivolts and resistances I leave it to the professionals. Being colour blind all I can say is there are pretty coloured lines round resistors!
    Regards
    Simon
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: North Cambs UK, Earth, Sol, Orion - Cygnus arm of galaxy

    Posts: 11,166
    I'm MadeOfDeadGiantStarsThatExplodedEonsAgo.

    Default

    Oh dear... Is there any chance of you taking bigger pictures & following directions on this thread upload bigger pictures & then use the [IMG} files in a post?

    They aren't 100% clear, oh by the way, it'd be helpful seeing as you are in there to take a pic of the wires connecting to the driver in the enclosure & again where it terminates on the crossover.

    We'll get there
    Bests, Mark



    "We must believe in free will. We have no choice" Isaac Bashevis Singer

  8. #8
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: Bedfordshire

    Posts: 16
    I'm Simon.

    Default

    Mark
    I did reduce the size to fit in with the upload requirement. I will redo later today and work out the photobucket thing.
    Regards
    Simon

  9. #9
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: Bedfordshire

    Posts: 16
    I'm Simon.

    Default DW2

    http://s1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa335/Sidpig/

    Mark
    The link above should take you to the images. The board is duplicated on the other half. The black pot in the middle leads to the outside and has three positions 0 -2 -4 I take this to be db.

    The white wire and the green with white trace are the speaker wires.
    The two speakers are mounted opposite one another vertically and all the wires are sealed through the woodwork.
    Regards
    Simon

  10. #10
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: North Cambs UK, Earth, Sol, Orion - Cygnus arm of galaxy

    Posts: 11,166
    I'm MadeOfDeadGiantStarsThatExplodedEonsAgo.

    Default

    Hi Simon, well it looks to be sussed out chap Both crossovers are 12Db per octave which means that the connections need to be reversed to the satelite speakers (due to phase issues) & looking at the wiring colour they have done just that

    Here are the connections... remember they are the same for left & right speakers

    Input + = Red
    Input - = Red/Blue tracer

    Satelite output + = Orange
    Satelite output - = Green/Yellow tracer


    That should sort you out, please let me know how you get on

    E2A:- I just had a thought... Depending on where in the room the sub is compared to the satelites you may need to reverse the positive & negative connections to each satelite or you might get cancelation near the crossover point. Best to try them both ways round & settle for the one with the most bass (in phase at the xover point). This will as i say though be dependant on the distance of the sub & satelites from your seating position
    Bests, Mark



    "We must believe in free will. We have no choice" Isaac Bashevis Singer

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