Hi Barry, good of you to take the 'No such thing as too much information' with enthusiasm to enlighten me :wow:
But seriously good information:clapclapclap:
Printable View
Hi Barry, good of you to take the 'No such thing as too much information' with enthusiasm to enlighten me :wow:
But seriously good information:clapclapclap:
Anyone have a go at removing coating of fuse caps ? Unfortunately I was poorly last few days and only back on all 4 cylinders today
Is this oversimplifying it, simply use fuse wire wrapped between the two terminals the fuse is gripped in, removes the need for the glass tube, and polishing.? Eh.
Think we are getting into an area I wouldn't recommend aside from difficulty in obtaining good mechanical coupling + the fuse wire will have a coating !!
So cleaning the curved sides of the caps is the way to go
Was checking the fuses in both of my exotic ( to me maybe not to others) power leads and one states Lead Free, wasn't a Bussman but to British Standard
If we are talking about a mains fuse (i.e. one to BS1362), then the use of a ceramic, not glass, tube is there for safety reasons. In the event of a failure, such as a short circuit, the fuse wire literally explodes and will break the glass tube. A ceramic tube is much stronger and the sand filling helps to dampen the explosive rupture.
It is dangerous and highly irresponsible to suggest one can simply wrap some fuse wire around the fuse clips in a BS1363 plug. It is a potential fire hazard; and if it did cause a fire, your household insurance would be deemed null and void by the insurer.
If the fuses in question have a silver plating, then in theory, when silver oxidise's it should make a better connection, not worse.
For any other plating, then i agree, keeping it as clean as posible will keep the contact resistance to a minimum.
A clean fuse and holder is IMHO a better solution, especialy safety wise' than any so called "HI-FI FUSE" option.
Just my ramblings.
A...
Silver oxide (Ag2O) is an insulator, with a resistivity of 10+9 Ohm.m. Any tarnish is more likely to be silver sulphide (Ag2S), initially a pale yellow in colour, becoming darker with time and increasing thickness. It too is a poor conductor (resistivity 1.5 - 2.0 .10-3 Ohm.m, or ~ 105 times that of silver itself). However both are soft and the tarnish layer is easily cut through by simply removing the fuse and reinserting it.
If you really want to use a fuse and not worry about the surface condition of the end caps, then one could always use one of the 'specialist' fuses with gold plated end caps; though I doubt if any of them conform to BS1362, despite what is written on the fuse.
I would always use a fuse that did conform to BS standards, and if need be polish the ends with some Duraglit (or similar).
Well, that's told me Barry, :eek::doh:
As for the rest, yes, absolutely! :)Quote:
There is a widespread misconception that silver oxidizes. This is incorrect. Silver does not oxidize at room temperatures. There also is an equally big misconception that silver oxide is a good conductor, thus tarnished silver connectors do not make a big difference. It is true that silver oxide is conductive, but the tarnish that easily develops on silver plated connectors is not silver oxide, because silver does not oxidize. Instead it is silver sulfide, brown to very dark brown (as opposed to pure black for silver oxide). Silver sulfide is not a conductor, but a semiconductor. Thus the idea that the silver tarnish does not affect the connection is a bad myth.
A...:)
Certainly there is erroneous info out there ( the tinternet is full of it) that silver oxide\ tarnish is just as conductive, have read it myself and up to 5 mins ago would have subscribed to that belief. No longer. As always the right way rises to the surface on this forum and I for one am indebted to our more learned friends
I'll make my position clear at the start, no offence to anyone intended, but I think this is total baloney.
How can polishing a fuse effect anything unless you also polish the fuse holder, inside of the wire clamp in the plug pin, then the plug pin itself, not forgetting the female connector in the socket?
If you're happy it makes a difference then fine it's your time