How does that work/remove scratches?
Very impressive.
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Don't know, I found the method on the web under general furniture restoring. Work it definitely does though. No need for abrasives either.
The scratched parts expose bare (or raw/untreated/unfinished) wood whereas the unscratched parts are finished wood. The olive oil darkens the scratches to blend in with the rest. Water would give a similar effect but the effect would disappear when the water evaporated. The oil gives it a permanent "wet" look.
This method is simple and can be very effective, particularly if the wood hasn't been coloured or stained in any way. It wouldn't work on, for example, beech that has been heavily stained to look very dark.
I have a pair of Kef Corellis (Like Geoffs) the wood of which I now want to restore. Will, based on this thread, use some Rustins clear satin varnish and then finish off with some Fiddes clear wax. But a few quick questions if I may? What type of prep sanding should I go for? Paul at RFC suggests 240 grit sandpaper but I see in this thread Scotchbrights being used. Also the speakers have some minor dings to the edges (not serious but would be great to fix). What is an easy fix please? Also on one corner the wood has gapped a bit (0.5 mm), can I simply use some clear wood filler?
cheers!
Dings, gaps and chips can be fixed with Rustins Wood Filler. Use the teak coloured type. Like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RUSTINS-TE...4AAOSwwN5Zgd9c
It's what I use and it works well. Apply very sparingly, so you don't have to rub down too much. Better to do it carefully a few times than rub through the thin veneer.
Minor adjustment of colour can be achieved with furniture touch-up pens like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCRATCH-D...eA7iTCC8xBlgXg
Again, apply very, very sparingly. It's a permanent marker and colours quickly.
Do all the above before applying varnish.
Sorry to be a bore Geoff but what do you suggest I use for rubbing? 240 grit paper or Scotchbrights or something else?
Stick with paper. 240 grit or slightly coarser. Use 240 for finishing. If you rub the filler down in plane with each cabinet face, you'll find you have sharp edges in the filler where it meets cabinet edges. Rub the sharpness down so the filler matches adjacent veneer edges.
i used to use a trowel over the corner so u get a nice flush front and side, or use a piece of wood.