Me and the 1210 are gunna have us some me time....

OK, this weekend i intend to install the next bag of upgrades to the 1210. These include full setup using the Adjust+ Pro version, correcting the Timestep HSE termination on the PCB. Making a sorbothane "bath" for the PCB to sit on to limit vibration getting to the PCB and finally (if time permits), making some pure silver powerleads and balanced speaker cables to replace the Isotek Elite powerleads and the Atlas balanced pure copper speaker leads!! :eyebrows::eyebrows::eyebrows: Full report follows soon...

Pure silver power leads, interesting.

David,

Have you ever had any experience with silver leads?? Would be interesting to know if you've had any improvements with the various leads that you sell. Also I have a Isotek GII NOVA filtering out all the crap in my system, so the idea is to make some new leads to replace the Isotek Elites, I was thinking about producing something like this http://www.madengland.com/product.po...?key=27&page=3. It cant be that hard :lol:

Sounds like fun, Andrew - enjoy and report back! :cool:

Marco.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Marco

Sounds like fun, Andrew - enjoy and report back! :cool:

---

:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by REXTON

David,

Have you ever had any experience with silver leads?? Would be interesting to know if you've had any improvements with the various leads that you sell. Also I have a Isotek GII NOVA filtering out all the crap in my system, so the idea is to make some new leads to replace the Isotek Elites, I was thinking about producing something like this http://www.madengland.com/product.po...?key=27&page=3. It cant be that hard :lol:

---

I thought my website was hard to navigate, that is the strangest website ever (almost).

They do look home made and as you say its not that hard to get some solid silver cable and put a decent IEC and mains plug on each end, in fact keep your money for a while longer as I have 1 pure silver mains lead left so you may as well try it for a bit as its sat here doing nothing, then you can tell if pure silver wire is the way to go without spending un-necessary wonga if it does not sound right in your system?

The ones I make use fairly thick cable so they should sound good, if you want to try one no problem and if it is good I can tell you where to buy the wire from.

Here it is just so you know I have it although you cannot see the silver wires!

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/t...DSCF3688-1.jpg

Many thanks for your kind offer!! Now how do I get hold of it so i can place it in my system?? I had quite a specific design setup for the power lead. The powerlead will go in the back of the Timestep power supply to start with then i intend to shuffle it around the various other components to see if it helps. I may be upgrading the power supply to a Paul Hynes but I havent decided yet. I was think about using 28 AWG cotton-insulated silver wire of .9999 purity this has a lower dialetic than teflon, tri-braided and then aluminium shielded for RFI & EMI and then maybe adding a polypropylene jacket for vibration control. I was also thinking maybe a Futuretech plug (Rhodium or silver plated), I think this lot should be upto Reference level?? Then maybe you could give me some advice regarding fuses??

You won't need to mess about as the one I will send you has been optimizes for RFI etc, etc. I will advise what exactly is in it later as I have a few orders to go and do now. The good thing is as you say you can try it in a few different areas to see what happens, it has a good plug on already and I will put a super duper fuse in it for you as well, pm your address and I will post it off asap.

BTW despite what anyone else says, rhodium is not as good a conductor of electricity as other metals, silver is the best proven by simple laws of physics, then copper then gold. So silver plated copper would be about the best commercially available for hi-fi use. I happen to have what I think is the world's only Pure Silver IEC connector as well. Unless someone knows otherwise.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/t...DEN/metals.jpg

Silver oxidizes like a muthaf***er though, gold doesn't at all which is why it's better for lazy gits that don't want to strip their plugs evey 6 months to remove the oxidization :eyebrows:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Reid Malenfant

Silver oxidizes like a muthaf***er though, gold doesn't at all which is why it's better for lazy gits that don't want to strip their plugs evey 6 months to remove the oxidization :eyebrows:

---

Mark,
Oxidized silver is still a good conductor, no need to strip them down at all.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mains Cables R Us

You won't need to mess about as the one I will send you has been optimizes for RFI etc, etc. I will advise what exactly is in it later as I have a few orders to go and do now. The good thing is as you say you can try it in a few different areas to see what happens, it has a good plug on already and I will put a super duper fuse in it for you as well, pm your address and I will post it off asap.

BTW despite what anyone else says, rhodium is not as good a conductor of electricity as other metals, silver is the best proven by simple laws of physics, then copper then gold. So silver plated copper would be about the best commercially available for hi-fi use. I happen to have what I think is the world's only Pure Silver IEC connector as well. Unless someone knows otherwise.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/t...DEN/metals.jpg

---

Just out of interest, where does platinum sit in the league table?

And what about carbon? VDH seem use carbon a lot.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mains Cables R Us

Mark,
Oxidized silver is still a good conductor, no need to strip them down at all.

---

Really? I wouldn't have thought so looking at it :scratch:

Actually i have never tested the oxidisation for resistance, i'll check it out, but it sure doesn't look nice :eyebrows:

It goes black if left long enough without cleaning..

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/t...nductvity1.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/t...ductivity2.jpg

I thought this article was quite interesting myself.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Reid Malenfant

Really? I wouldn't have thought so looking at it :scratch:

Actually i have never tested the oxidisation for resistance, i'll check it out, but it sure doesn't look nice :eyebrows:

It goes black if left long enough without cleaning..

---

Quite right mate, I spent 10 years working in a jewelers when I left school and like you said earlier about cleaning plugs, we had to clean the silver jewelery every week as it went brown with the strong lights in the window making it tarnish quicker!

At least I know where to buy decent silver cleaner and cleaning cloths from!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BTH K10A

Just out of interest, where does platinum sit in the league table?

And what about carbon? VDH seem use carbon a lot.

---

Platinum I have no idea but even if it was top a 1 metre cable would probably cost 10 times more than the Nordost Odin? I think carbon is used as an insulator is it not?

Palladium is used for interconnects to devastating effect, this is one such beast below, costs £3800 for a 1 metre pair:-

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/t...iumcantata.jpg

Hi David,

Quote:

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Mark,
Oxidized silver is still a good conductor, no need to strip them down at all.

---

Indeed. And I suspect that oxidised silver is still a better conductor than, say, untarnished Rhodium? ;)

Interesting chart, btw!

Marco.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mains Cables R Us

Quite right mate, I spent 10 years working in a jewelers when I left school and like you said earlier about cleaning plugs, we had to clean the silver jewelery every week as it went brown with the strong lights in the window making it tarnish quicker!

At least I know where to buy decent silver cleaner and cleaning cloths from!

---

Interesting what was said in that stuff you put up though Dave, i'm not sure if they are stating that oxidized silver is better than gold (as gold doesn't at all) but it says oxidized silver is better than the same but copper.. Click it ;)

Attachment 3665

I'm not sure what to make of it, i guess if you have two clean silver terminals & connect them together where they are joined it won't oxidise, just stop air getting to it will prevent it ;)

I'm still going to test it out on some totally oxidised 925 standard silver & see if there is more resistance than with no tarnish :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mains Cables R Us

I think carbon is used as an insulator is it not?

---

Carbon is a conductor, but not one of the better ones :eyebrows:

I really don't like the sound of VDH Carbon cables. I remember when they first came to market. The shop I worked in brought some in...Firsts and Seconds....yuck :spew:


Regards D S D L

I am a mine of use(less) ful information depending on your point of view, the conductivity chart is on my website and had been downloaded by a LOT of people so has the UK mains supply, see for yourself if you need some toilet reading.

To get back onto topic! I've started designing the sorbothane "bath" for the PCB. I've stripped the PCB and I've cut the Sorbothane to match the footprint of the PCB. Tomorrow I'll dismantle my 1210 fully and see where or how or if the idea of a "bath" can be applied to the PCB, I'll have to see how the Mike New modifications impact on my idea! I'll also modify the Timestep earthing as well whilst I'm there. :eyebrows:

What is the point in suspending a PCB on a piece of soborthane dude, not being funny just can't see the point? Surely some decent cable for the PSU and new mains lead for it also and a fuse would work wonders?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mains Cables R Us

What is the point in suspending a PCB on a piece of soborthane dude, not being funny just can't see the point?

---

So you have never heard of microphony then David?

On top of that there is thermal distortion just to add for good measure :eyebrows:

I know all about it guys but where does it all end? Just getting settled into some serious vinyl replay and boom, something else to consider. :steam::)

It ends when you just can't be bothered taking it any further i'm afraid :eyebrows:

Sorry David, i agree lets just enjoy the music... However if the body & mind is willing then why not ;)

If I had your system I would be spending ALL my time listening to music, well almost, but suppose you get bored too!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mains Cables R Us

If I had your system I would be spending ALL my time listening to music, well almost, but suppose you get bored too!

---

:lolsign: No-one on here has the faintest clue how my system actually sounds, i mean it really could be a pile of kaka. I'm fairly sure it isn't having heard a good few systems.

But yes, at the end of the day there is always more that can be done & i'm going to do some it within the next week :)

Then i guess not a lot will change if anything except for the speakers for a year or so. After that it all depends on how fast i can do DIY power amps from the ground up :eyebrows:

I'm very happy right now though tbh, i'm hoping in a week i'll be grinning like the Cheshire Cat :cool:

This has been a 30 year oddysey though at the end of the day...

ATB David.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Reid Malenfant

So you have never heard of microphony then David?

On top of that there is thermal distortion just to add for good measure :eyebrows:

---

YEP thats what I'm using the Sorbothane for microphony. The thermal distortion is something that I might have to consider but I think that there should be plenty of space between the PCB and sorbothane as I'm only intending using the sorbothane in intrinsic base of the TT. I've rectified the timestep earthing and cleaned all my interconnects. Cant say I noticed that much difference, if anything whilst playing vinyl but I did notice the TT is now silent with sign of any hum. I turned my ATC 50 ASL's upto 3/4 volume, no hum was apparent only noise I heard was the faint hiss of the speaker drivers. The sorbothane "bath" design continues. Will keep you all posted.

Silver interconnects made up today. Will now start to compare these against my Valhalla interconnects on the 1210. Adjust+ not arrived yet so cant do the fine tuning to the V. :doh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by REXTON

Silver interconnects made up today. Will now start to compare these against my Valhalla interconnects on the 1210. Adjust+ not arrived yet so cant do the fine tuning to the V. :doh:

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home made interconnects against valhalla, that will be an eye opener, mind you I tested a home brew mains lead against a brahma and mine beat it convincingly so maybe you have found a niche, start selling them!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mains Cables R Us

home made interconnects against valhalla, that will be an eye opener, mind you I tested a home brew mains lead against a brahma and mine beat it convincingly so maybe you have found a niche, start selling them!

---

HMMMMMMmmmmm..... Might start selling them but I dont think enough people would buy them. I fitted pure silver tonearm cables with Teflon dielectric and added polypropylene + aluminium jackets to help protect against vibration, RFI and EMI. I terminated them in Eichmann silver bullets to my old original 1210 tonearm and it sounded very good ;). I stripped this away from the old tonearm last night and added some more Eichmanns to the opposite end and voila! Early indications are that on certain vinyl (thrash/heavy metal) there is no difference. Other stuff like vocal, jazz, prog the valhalla's seem markedly ahead. I did note that my old Marantz CD63se sound $hit loads better now using the homebrew silver interconnects!

Don't expect to hear any difference when listening to heavy metal records; most of them have crappy production (for instance, Venom's debut sported one of the worst recordings ever).

My upgrades have had to put on hold for a wee while! i developed a problem with my SME V or Nordost TYR tonearm cable. I'm having the SME sent upto audio origami full overhaul :eek: I'll update this thread when I have a little more information!

The SME V, and TYR tonearm cable have been sent to Audio-Origami for some serious tweaks. Heres what I intend having done to the V

1. Re-wire with teflon coated silver.
2. Silver cartridge tags
3. The cartridge tags will be directly attached to the internal rewiring just like
a technoarm.
4. Tonearm dampened even further.
5. Bearing checked and re-oiled.
6. Silicone cueing dampening refil.
7. Tyr tonearm cable terminated with Eichman silver bullets rather than those
crappy neutriks.

This should make things more clinical and forensic which is just how I like it:eyebrows: The adjust+ software has been dispatched so I cant wait to get the V back and then start to properly fettle!!

I once made the mistake of buying a Nordost El Dorado silver power cable. I just couldn't get a good sound from it, no matter where I placed it. An ordinary RA Powerkord absolutely trashed it. Never bought Nordost again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MartinT

I once made the mistake of buying a Nordost El Dorado silver power cable. I just couldn't get a good sound from it, no matter where I placed it. An ordinary RA Powerkord absolutely trashed it. Never bought Nordost again.

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Hi there Martin, I too use RA/Kimber power cords and the lower cost ones are good value for the outlay. Just goes to show you don't have to hand over the content of your bank account to get good sound, does it not :) ?

As a matter of interest do you use one of Russ's distribution blocks (the wedge shaped one) and if you do what do you think of them. At present I use one of their strips (daisy chain one with additional earth connection). If you don't use a RA strip what do you use or recommend, exclude the mega mega bucks ones please :)

I think that the former ed of Hi Fi+, Roy Gregory, use to go orgasmic over Nordost and the loom theory/practice, I believe he ended up working for them?

Another power cable I would like looking into is the Vertex AQ ones. Know anything about these?

Cheers

Ron :piano:

Hi Ron

I do have a long RA distribution strip - it predates the wedgy ones. I use it for ancillary (video) equipment. It works just fine and is itself plugged in to an Isotek Evo 3 Mira video/audio filter. My main system distribution is straight from a PS Audio Powerplant Premier, I'm afraid - megabucks! It provides five clean isolated zones of regenerated power to the main system components.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MartinT

I once made the mistake of buying a Nordost El Dorado silver power cable. I just couldn't get a good sound from it, no matter where I placed it. An ordinary RA Powerkord absolutely trashed it. Never bought Nordost again.

---

MMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmmmm this is an interesting comment I intended making up some silver power cords using some pure silver with teflon and cotton dialectic. I quite like the pure silver plug which mains cables r us are advertising, this with a well produced and designed cable protection should make for a good cable. I intend producing some pure silver power cords but they will be hard wired into my timestep HE powerpack and that way we get rid of the need of balanced / unbalanced connectors. In fact thats were the next set of "tweaks" will probably be based in and around the timestep power supply. But I think i need to get the tonearm back from AO and give these another month of being broken in and reviewing to see if any improvements have been made. I'll probably start tweaking the timestep power supply march / april time, improve the shielding, improve the fuse and cabling. I've still to finish designing the sorbothane bath for the techies PCB!!!

up-grades need to be done one at a time to gauge the improvements (if any) IMHO

Quote:

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Originally Posted by REXTON

MMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmmmm this is an interesting comment I intended making up some silver power cords using some pure silver with teflon and cotton dialectic. I quite like the pure silver plug which mains cables r us are advertising, this with a well produced and designed cable protection should make for a good cable. I intend producing some pure silver power cords but they will be hard wired into my timestep HE powerpack and that way we get rid of the need of balanced / unbalanced connectors. In fact thats were the next set of "tweaks" will probably be based in and around the timestep power supply. But I think i need to get the tonearm back from AO and give these another month of being broken in and reviewing to see if any improvements have been made. I'll probably start tweaking the timestep power supply march / april time, improve the shielding, improve the fuse and cabling. I've still to finish designing the sorbothane bath for the techies PCB!!!

---

Hi Andrew, I too use the Timestep HE power supply for my 1210, MN bearing, copper platter so will be interested in your findings. As to grounding the HE PSU I followed the recommendation on this forum and attached the TS HE earth tag to the OV bottom left of the printed circuit board, I can't say I heard any difference having frist attached as per instruction sheet, maybe its me but bottom left is a better earthing connection. J7 of Audio Origami rewired my Linn Ekos for me plus damping etc. I did not get on with the Kondo cartridge tags, very fragile, so I had Johnny put the Clearaudio tags on instead. I used a TS anti resonator between my AT OC9II cartridge and the Ekos headshell but it seems to suck the life out of music playback so its coming out and I will go back to common practice of mating only cartridge to headshell, no resonator in between :( One has to try and experiment :).

I'm waiting for the performance trial between the Timestep HE PSU and the Paul Hynes SR5 that Martin T and Marco use only out of curiosity as I've gone as far with my 1210 as I want to go for the time being... there are certain aspects of my Linn LP12, cirkus, modded subschassis that I miss such as the timber of wood bodied instruments, viz: cello, violin, double bass, conga drums, flutes, Bosendorfer grand pianos, etc., which I enjoyed more from my LP12, however, as stated I have to refit the cartridge being used on my 1210 first and see if I feel the same way, a pesky job switching cartridges etc, no wonder people just go with computer downloads and cd?

Ron

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mains Cables R Us

up-grades need to be done one at a time to gauge the improvements (if any) IMHO

---

You're right on the button with that one David, plain common sense but something I disregard infrequently through just wanting to get the equipment up and running. A long time ago, when I was really into fidling and twiddyling I use to go back an undo an upgrade to see if performance fell, sometimes it did and at other times it made no difference.... even tried the cheaper end of Peter Belt stuff and still come across the odd sticky when a box comes out, nowadays I'm more questioning and more idle :eyebrows:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JazzBones

Hi Andrew, I too use the Timestep HE power supply for my 1210, MN bearing, copper platter so will be interested in your findings. As to grounding the HE PSU I followed the recommendation on this forum and attached the TS HE earth tag to the OV bottom left of the printed circuit board, I can't say I heard any difference having frist attached as per instruction sheet, maybe its me but bottom left is a better earthing connection. J7 of Audio Origami rewired my Linn Ekos for me plus damping etc. I did not get on with the Kondo cartridge tags, very fragile, so I had Johnny put the Clearaudio tags on instead. I used a TS anti resonator between my AT OC9II cartridge and the Ekos headshell but it seems to suck the life out of music playback so its coming out and I will go back to common practice of mating only cartridge to headshell, no resonator in between :( One has to try and experiment :).

I'm waiting for the performance trial between the Timestep HE PSU and the Paul Hynes SR5 that Martin T and Marco use only out of curiosity as I've gone as far with my 1210 as I want to go for the time being... there are certain aspects of my Linn LP12, cirkus, modded subschassis that I miss such as the timber of wood bodied instruments, viz: cello, violin, double bass, conga drums, flutes, Bosendorfer grand pianos, etc., which I enjoyed more from my LP12, however, as stated I have to refit the cartridge being used on my 1210 first and see if I feel the same way, a pesky job switching cartridges etc, no wonder people just go with computer downloads and cd?

Ron

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Ron,

Thanks for your comments! I must admit that i have not tried anything between the cartridge head but thanks for the tip. I'm also awaiting the difference betwen the two powerpacks as this could be where i'm going next but I have so many upgrades planned that's its a matter of just holding ones horses and seeing what happens when you add a few tweaks. My SME V has been gone now for 2 days and should be back in about a week. I've just recieved my pro version of Adjust+, this can do all sorts of weird and wonderful things like measure speed stability, measure the resonance of your tonearm, it sounds like a great piece of kit but I'm gonna need a weekend!

I had a very highend LP12 (still got but its a bit stripped at the moment!), I love music to be forsenic in nature and the LP12 just added a little too much of its own character for my liking. I'm trying to get my 1210 like a pathologists morgue (bloody clinical :lol:). I cant say that changing the earth tag made any difference but it was a simple 10 minute mod and I feel better for doing it. I think ever little can help and so long as dosen't harm its all good! Well I'm hoping to get the deck fully setup in the next 2 weeks but the homebrew cabling may take a little while longer depending upon suppliers and how I want to design it!! :cool:

Hi again Andrew, the experiments are still with me. I've dug out of the garage a small sheet of lead, approx 2mm thick and I am going to make a mat sandwich with this between the stock 1210 platter and my copper mat/Achro. This I feel will first of all negate any stock platter ringing plus adding more weight to the overall platter as a whole, my MN bearing and TS HE PSU can cope with the extra weight. The lead sheet I will use weighs about the same as the copper mat. The experiment is easily reversable :)

If the above works then out will come my newly purchased jar of petroleum jelly (jelo ;) )/Vaseline to make a better bond... a Mike New idea.

As my moniker implies I am a keen enthusiast of Jazz, not the way out stuff or the plinky plonky variety and because I have used my LP12 for far longer, to me it has the edge when playing jazz for me at the moment. It will take alot for me to ditch my LP12... the Linn does need precise set up from time to time, nothing like what is said, and I have the ability and tools to do this, as a consequence my Linn is on song for me. However, my Tekko is a very good performer as well, just different and its difference I like from time to time. As I have said before if we were all the same with the same likes and dislikes then forums like this would only go so far before they disappeared.
Keep us informed how you are getting on?

Ron :)

Ron,

Some pretty cool comments:) Nice to hear that your experimenting with the lead and stock platter. The MN bearing will easily cope with a little extra lead on your stock platter. I just did a little experiment for you.The MN platter weighs in at about 14 pounds if you have the copper version like I have. So you could go a lot thicker than your 2mm. Incidently I use an old garrard 301 mat and I've found this works quite well in dampening a stock platter, might be cheaper than an achromat??

I think this weekend will be taken up pattern cutting the sorbothane bath, this will be used to try and dampen vibration to the 1210's PCB I got this idea when I tried out a £3k top end NAIM phonostage except the PCB is mounted on springs to stop vibration getting to the PCB, well i've got shed loads of sorbothane so thats my version. I'll probably start getting the cabling designed soon. I have been speaking to some supplier who can cut sorbothane down to about 0.5mm thickness, this will be used as an extrinsic dampener to my silver cabling, I'm now looking for a process to stop the silver from oxidising (sic).

Hey Andrew, thats very interesting what you've planned with the sorbathane damping. I use an Audioquest sorbathane diam 2.5" x .75" round disc on a slate coaster on the outside and under the bearing housing to (hopefully) dampen vibration and support the deck on five points, the four normal Isonoe corners plus the one I have just mentioned. The whole sheabang sits on a Townshend Siesmic sink (bellows & spring). Supporting the PCB boards is an interesting possibility. As to the thicker lead sheet I did try various builder's merchants but they only sold it on a whole reel costing circa £80.00! So I'm just using what I have for experimental purposes the only cost is my hobby time. If the lead damping mat bonded to the stock platter works then maybe (?) there will not be a need to go for the MN platter which visually leaves me wanting something that looks better and not having the internal wiring showing as per some of Martin T's pictures....sorry Martin :( , besides I'm rather fond of the Tekko outer strobe platter as it is a reminder of the Technics 1200/10 itself and a constant visual check to see if the deck is operating at constant correct speed

The work for us continues :rolleyes:

Ron :lol:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JazzBones

there will not be a need to go for the MN platter which visually leaves me wanting something that looks better and not having the internal wiring showing as per some of Martin T's pictures....sorry Martin

---

Just to put this into perspective, those wires only show under flash photography. In normal use, I am never aware of seeing them. Secondly, my platter is a prototype and I believe Mike puts more of a lip on the production ones.

I use silver mains cables and work fine with my system They have a huge effect on my balanced mains and power amp and quite a big effect on my copper DAC/PRE
I think like everything else with cables the quality of the materials and how well its constructed makes a huge difference. These cables replaced thoses huge cables PS Audio used to make. I had quite a few other cables through my time, the best thing I can say is that I no longer play around with cables I just do not feel the need for that

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MartinT

Just to put this into perspective, those wires only show under flash photography. In normal use, I am never aware of seeing them. Secondly, my platter is a prototype and I believe Mike puts more of a lip on the production ones.

---

Yep, I can confirm that i have a production version, theres is indeed more of a lip on the outer perimeter of the platter and you cant see any wires.

No wires visible here with my MN platter :)

Remember that Martin has the base plate fitted, which raises the platter up quite a bit, so that's the reason why you can see the wires inside the deck.

Andrew's got this too, but his is new platter with a deeper 'skirt', which covers the internal wires.

Ron, by all means 'fettle' the stock Techy platter any way you wish, and I hope you get the upgrade you're looking for, but don't rule out the MN platter because you don't like the idea of wires showing, because it's simply a non-issue either way (base plate fitted or not) with one of Mike's current designs :cool:

Marco.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Marco

Don't rule out the MN platter because you don't like the idea of wires showing, because it's simply a non-issue either way (base plate fitted or not) with one of Mike's current designs :cool:

Marco.

---

Ron,

I love the ideas of what your doing with your platter, just like me, a complete tweaking nut (maybe??) :). But on a more serious note (bad pun!!), i think marco does have a point. I'm currently spinning a stock platter and I have noticed a MASSIVE difference in things like microdynamics and details, size of soundstage, bass not as powerful, intimate vocal not as intimate the list goes on.................. The 1210 still sounds great but not GREAT if that makes sense. Anyway, am off now to start cutting the sorbothane bath!!