Caiman - New Case?

First off, I hope everyone had a great Christmas :)

I have been umm and arr'ing about designing and building a new case for my Caiman. Mainly so I can fit more goodies inside it and not be restricted by the size of the case, but also because (to my knowledge) no one else has done it yet. :lol:

I planning on giving it a solid aluminium front and back, with CNC milling/engraving for the buttons, power, inputs/outputs, volume, headphones, etc and then having only minimal text on the front to keep it sleek looking. I might even consider changing the buttons, etc but that depends largely on what my wallet will allow.

I am undecided on what the sides of the case should be made off (stained hardwood maybe?), but the top will likely be transparent.
The base will probably just be a sheet of aluminium with fixings attached for mounting the boards on.

When I get some free time I will draw up a model of what I'm planning for people to provide some input.
This will be my first adventure into building a case for something and hopefully not the last, so if anyone has done something similar before, I'd love to hear from them.

This is very interesting....I for one look forward to reading your opinions on how it sounds after the case swap.

You should post step by step photos of the process.


Regards D S D L

Good luck with this James - I've posted before that I would like to see a Caiman in a nicer case, (though in my 'case' I would also like to see it become a full-blown pre-amp, with a couple of analogue inputs and remote control...)

Although I think the main improvement will be visual, there should definitely be potential to improve the sound as well, so will be interesting to see (hear) how you get on.

Yea, I am looking forward to this little project. I have no idea how long it will take, or how much it will cost. I'm going to keep it as cheap as I can, without compromising on quality.

I have created a 3d model of the sort of thing I shall be aiming for. I am rendering a model of the new case as we speak, though it might be a couple of hours until I upload it as it taking some time to render. :lol:

I just need to sort out the back of the case then render the back and i should have everything I need to get started.

The render of most of the case has completed. What are everyone's thoughts?
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/8268/caimancase1.png

I will sort out a render of the back of the case soon.

Looks good - rough dimensions?

I've just noticed that I needed to enlarge the case slightly to get the internal dimensions I was looking for, so the last picture is a little out of proportion.
(A couple of new ones will be up soon)

Either way I'm looking at an external size of:
D - 216mm
W - 350mm
H - 100mm (Not including feet)

and an Internal size of:
D - 200mm
W - 300mm
H - 80mm

Thanks for that James - roughly halfway between a "standard" hifi size and the current Caiman, then - is there a particular reason for the width at 350mm? I'll wait to see the new images before saying anything else, if the proportions differ.

Beauty! Looks really good, il folow this one I think!

I know that the bdac case CAN be changed to make positive changes to the sound.
I lined the case of mine with aluminium flash tape (effectively Dynamat type stuff) and the sound tightened up nicely.

Will be watching this one closely :)

good render by the way, nice table texture.
What 3d software did you use?

After a couple of minor dimension changes, here are the final renders of the proposed case:

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/3...case2a0000.png
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/8...case2b0000.png

Only thing now is I have to work out how to attach all of the parts together in a clean manner so as not to ruin the look of it. Suggestions anyone?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Alex_UK

Thanks for that James - roughly halfway between a "standard" hifi size and the current Caiman, then - is there a particular reason for the width at 350mm? I'll wait to see the new images before saying anything else, if the proportions differ.

---

Not really no, I want enough space inside the case to not be restricted by component size, etc. I thought if I was making a custom case, i might as well make it big enough to accommodate some extra gubbins. :lol:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gazjam

I know that the bdac case CAN be changed to make positive changes to the sound.
I lined the case of mine with aluminium flash tape (effectively Dynamat type stuff) and the sound tightened up nicely.

Will be watching this one closely :)

good render by the way, nice table texture.
What 3d software did you use?

---

Im using Autodesk 3DS Max 2010

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Carson

The render of most of the case has completed. What are everyone's thoughts?
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/8268/caimancase1.png

I will sort out a render of the back of the case soon.

---

Thats great. I've always had issues with the Beresford Asthetics, they look terrible,the actual DAC i'm cool with.... that looks nice, i thnk the back pannel doesnt need overlapping like the front looks a bit odd...

Oi Stan the man you gotta agree :lol:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andre

Thats great. I've always had issues with the Beresford Asthetics, they look terrible,the actual DAC i'm cool with.... that looks nice, i thnk the back pannel doesnt need overlapping like the front looks a bit odd...

Oi Stan the man you gotta agree :lol:

---

Something like this?
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/3...imancase2c.png

Aye thats better all flush at the back...Nice work.Knobs would be better Chrome ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Carson

First off, I hope everyone had a great Christmas :)

I have been umm and arr'ing about designing and building a new case for my Caiman. Mainly so I can fit more goodies inside it and not be restricted by the size of the case, but also because (to my knowledge) no one else has done it yet. :lol:

I planning on giving it a solid aluminium front and back, with CNC milling/engraving for the buttons, power, inputs/outputs, volume, headphones, etc and then having only minimal text on the front to keep it sleek looking. I might even consider changing the buttons, etc but that depends largely on what my wallet will allow.

I am undecided on what the sides of the case should be made off (stained hardwood maybe?), but the top will likely be transparent.
The base will probably just be a sheet of aluminium with fixings attached for mounting the boards on.

When I get some free time I will draw up a model of what I'm planning for people to provide some input.
This will be my first adventure into building a case for something and hopefully not the last, so if anyone has done something similar before, I'd love to hear from them.

---

With the flush back it's not a million miles away from the nene valley audio cases, He bonds Acrylic to wood sides..

Have a look for cases here-

http://www.hifi2000.it/default.asp?Langid=1

I think they will also make you a bespoke one if you wish.

Great project, James! Do keep us regularly updated on this one. Potentially the interest in this could be huge if your project is successful, so good luck with it :)

I'm sure that if correctly implemented your modifications will result in not only improved aesthetics, but also in significant improvements sonically!

Marco.

I think it looks superb-upmarket without being blingy. Personally I would not go for wood on the cheeks. Dont put any more writing on-the name is enough.

For me, a remote would be a fantastic addition, and the looks would not go amiss.
Put me down as seriously interested if a remote were a possible..

Thanks for everyone's comments. Its nice to hear some positive feedback on the looks and design, etc. :)

I am very much a minimalist person (hell....I dont even have any icons on my desktop :lol:) so the more sleek and minimal I can make it (whilst keeping it tasteful) the better.


I have almost completed the process of trying to find all of the components to make the case. Buttons, sockets, dials, CNC front & rear panel, etc and working out a rough price for the parts.

I've chosen and located most of the parts. I'm just waiting on a mail back from Stanley B regarding the correct Pot for the volume dial and a couple of other minor details then I'll start to get the bits.
Also got to ask for a couple of quotes for the front and rear panels to me made and also the smoked perspex cut to shape for the top.

Due to the design, I shall be removing all buttons, sockets, outputs, inputs, etc from the PCB's and then connecting them to ones attached to the case panels. Lots of work, but should pay off.
Just really hoping I dont brick the DAC by doing all of this :(

My main problem at the moment though is how im going to fix all the case parts together without the fixings ruining the exterior and interior design.
Suggestions anyone?


Can't say its going to be a cheap project, but then im going to enjoy every bit of build process and the satisfaction upon completion, so im not too worried. Also, I can't really skimp on quality for something like this :eyebrows:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Covenant

I think it looks superb-upmarket without being blingy. Personally I would not go for wood on the cheeks. Dont put any more writing on-the name is enough.

---

Personally I think the wood sets it apart from consumer devices and gives it a touch of upmarket class.
It won't be fake wood or laminate mind you, it'll be a proper piece of smooth, stained hardwood. Exactly which hardwood though, I am not sure yet.

Hi

I like your design idea. I've just partly finished this case for another Tube/Dac project of mine using the Wolfson WM8740 chip and the DIR9001 reciever chip.
I've built many cases using different materials and joining principles.
This one uses solid Beech hardwood sides to give strengh to attache the other panels.
Top, bottom and back are 5mm clear acrylic with the front being a sandwich of 10mm clear and 3mm transparent blue.
The top slides off by running in grooves cut in each side. This gives quick access for moding etc.. and shows no join.
The build time for this type of case is very short but gives a good sturdy box.

Hope you enjoy and have success with your project.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/IMG_4870.jpg
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/IMG_4871.jpg
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/IMG_4872.jpg
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/IMG_4873.jpg
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/IMG_4874.jpg
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/IMG_4875.jpg
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/IMG_4876.jpg
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/IMG_4877.jpg
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/IMG_4878.jpg
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/IMG_4879.jpg
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/IMG_4880.jpg

Thanks for your input Duncan, and thank you even more for showing me your case and how its all held together. I like the ideal of the sliding top, though really want the top of my case to sit on top of the wood, rather that sliding in it.

Might have to get my thinking cap on for this one.

Minor update...

I have now finished laying out the front and rear panel designs. (Ie where all the holes need to go, recesses, etc)

http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/5...ncasefront.png
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/188...ancaseback.png

You might be able to figure this out anyway, but the reason for the recesses on the rear of each panel, is to allow for components which you'd normally mount on thin panels, to mount on panel 10mm thick. This also leaves me enough space around the components to work with them when soldering wires to them, etc.

I am still not sure how I am going to put the 'Beresford' & 'Caiman' text onto the front panel. I can either:

1. Have them engraved into the panel and use the contrast of aluminium against the black panel to make them visible.
2. Get some aluminium/steel badge like things made to attach to the panel.

Finally, regarding the attachment of the front and rear panels to the wooded sides....I have had an idea.
Given that the front panel is 10mm thick, I could have some, say 8mm deep, holes drilled into the rear of the front panel (at the top and bottom on each side) and then threaded (with say M6 threads). Then in the rear panel, have some holes drilled straight through the panel in the same place. I then drill holes through the centre of the wooden sides so that 4 long M6 bolts can be passed from the rear panel, through the wooden sides and into the threaded front panel.

As long as the wooden sides are thick enough, that should provide a strong method of connecting the front, back and sides, whilst only having 4 bolts visible on the rear. For aesthetic reasons these would probably be black hex bolts.

Anyone think this is feasible? and strong enough?

The rigidity of the box relies on 4 m6 bolts that will be hard to source and probably have to be custom made, that diameter hole will be hard to drill at that length, you have enough thickness in the front facia to drill and tap as you propose, in the wooden side cheeks you could use inserts like Duncans(i presume) and an angle type bracket to fix the sides on the inside of the case, if you use a solid ali bottom plate this can be drilled and tapped to mount anything, counter-boring is another way of losing the head of the bolts mounting the base to the sides.
Duncans idea is a good way of achieving your case without to much engineering involved.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Carson

Personally I think the wood sets it apart from consumer devices and gives it a touch of upmarket class.

---

O god yes you must have wood.I would well play with myself. Here given this a quick wipe down .

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...SIN/CD2000.jpg

:stalks:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...-SIN/20002.jpg

That looks nice Andre,

You could always form a rigid Ali box from sheet/Plate and have it tig welded, then either bond the wooden cheeks to the sides or bolt and then have a removable top either sliding likes Duncs or bolted/counter bolted down through.
How deep is your pocket or how good are your engineering skills, i did pass my CNC course but that was over 20 years ago and i havn't touched one since

My pocket isn't all that deep, I am a student after all....albeit in my last few months of being a student.
As for engineering skills, I'd say I'm technically capable. I haven't studied anything with respect to engineering since DT when I was 12. :lol: That is of course if A-Level electronics doesn't count.
I am however considered to be very technically minded by everyone I know, and have always had a keen interest in turning & milling metals along with CNC machines too. Just never had to time or money to buy and use such machines.

Hi James

Its giving my brain an excercise as well trying to think of ways for you to produce the desired effect with the tools and skills available, but if you can handle a verticle milling machine with a digital read out you will have no problems at all, it was over 20 years ago that i was an engineer of that type (working in a tool room) and havn't been on a mill or lathe for years, i'm in the though process of buying another lathe as i can justify it for my current line of work making obsolete parts, a mill would be the icing on the cake, any excuse to buy tools though;)

Jon, Its giving my brain a good work out too. Hiding as many of the fixings as possible yet keeping the structural rigidity is turning out to be a tricky problem to solve.

I'd love to get myself a proper lathe and milling machine. Also considered building myself a 3 axis CNC router or CNC enabling a milling machine.
(I've nearly bough a lathe a few times but then realised I dont really have anywhere to put it at the moment.)

I have managed to find some M8x220 roofing bolts which would fit front to back without an issue and wouldn't look too bad (there on the back anyway). They might need to be shortened a little, but that's a minor problem.
M8x220 Roofing Bolts
I'm still not sure though, if I could actually drill a 200mm deep hole 8mm in diameter straight enough through the wood, let alone 4 of them. Even with a pillar drill or lathe this would likely be a tough feat to accomplish.
What about drilling a 12mm hole through the wood and then pressing a 8mm ID, 12mm OD tube into the wood. Im sure a 12mm diameter hole would be far easier to drill at that depth.

The base will be 5mm aluminium plate painted black, so plenty thick & strong enough to fix the case sides to.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Carson

Jon, Its giving my brain a good work out too. Hiding as many of the fixings as possible yet keeping the structural rigidity is turning out to be a tricky problem to solve.

I'd love to get myself a proper lathe and milling machine. Also considered building myself a 3 axis CNC router or CNC enabling a milling machine.
(I've nearly bough a lathe a few times but then realised I dont really have anywhere to put it at the moment.)

I have managed to find some M8x220 roofing bolts which would fit front to back without an issue and wouldn't look too bad (there on the back anyway). They might need to be shortened a little, but that's a minor problem.
M8x220 Roofing Bolts

The base will be 5mm aluminium plate painted black, so plenty thick & strong enough to fix the case sides to.

---

If your Design is in 3dS Max, you could export the file as a *.stl file, which any local manufacturer could run through their CNC?

Dont know about availablility in your area or anyting, but I know Max software has plugins for CNC output compatability.

Might make it easier (and MAYBE cheaper!)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gazjam

If your Design is in 3dS Max, you could export the file as a *.stl file, which any local manufacturer could run through their CNC?

Dont know about availablility in your area or anyting, but I know Max software has plugins for CNC output compatability.

Might make it easier (and MAYBE cheaper!)

---

I did think about that.
Thing is, the overall design and look is done in 3ds max, but the actual design for holes, recesses, etc has been done in sketchup to be exported in .dwg format.

You can certainly get a drill bit long enough for 10 and 12 mm, be carefull with oak and bare metal because they can have a reaction with each other, i use stainless fixings for this or decent coated,
These are a handy bolt for wood to wood fixings, ive used thousands for making bridges, sleeper walls and other landscaping projects, not much good in this instance though
http://www.landscaping-store.com/aca...imberlock.html

Roofing bolts are a a bit of a cosmetic pain with the cross head stile tops.

If you used reasonable thick plate all round bolted together you would only need short allan cap bolts counter- bored to give a flush finish, just need to drill and tap the ali sides end on, mount the sides in from the edge to form a rebate the thickness of the wood, then the wooden side cheeks could be wood screwed from the inside giving a flush finish, the top could be a simple plate with a small 90 degree bend to locate a couple of fixings to the rear panel, it could slide in from the back if you milled a rebate on the wooden cheeks thus covering the ali skin underneath,

I think i'm starting to repeat myself now, but i think you get the idea, i'm sure a few more sessions of brain storming and you will get there.

Here is a bit of an update for everyone.

The final design is 99% complete now. Just waiting on a PM from Stan regarding which Pot I need to replace the current with one so I can panel mount it. (I know I could use the current one but the shape would be a right pain to fit.)

The fixing together of the panels has been decided also. I am going with 4 lengths of M6 rod threaded into the front of the case, through the wood and neatly fastened with 4 M6 Nyloc Dome headed nuts on the rear. (All fastenings are stainless steel.)

The attachment of the base is not quite so critical as any fastenings will be hidden from view anyway, but it will likely be attached through the use of high strength epoxy glue or whatever glue will provide the strongest bond.

As for the Perspex top, it will be held in place by small latches or clips in each corner. I am still yet to finalise the final method of attachment so open to ideas here.
I wondered about those small door magnets you often see on kitchen cupboards, but am unsure whether magnets are really a good idea in the case.


On another note, I have purchased almost all of the minor parts for the case. (Switches, leds, sockets, jacks, fastenings, etc.)
I have requested a quote for the perspex top to be cut to size and have it edges polished.
I have also emailed HiFi 2000 with a few questions about getting the front and rear panels made, so should get those ordered once I hear back from them.

All I need to locate now, is a ~40-50mm Chrome Control Knob (which are rather tricky to find I might add), the hardwood sides and then some feet.


Below are the final designs.
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/5...ncasefront.png
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/1...ancaseback.png
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/814...efrontfull.png
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/2...sebackfull.png

Looking great so far, good stuff.

Had a wee thought RE: fastening the thing together..

Do you like to swap op-amps and do other Mods?
If so, would you have to factor in accessability to the PCB in your design?


Gary.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gazjam

Looking great so far, good stuff.

Had a wee thought RE: fastening the thing together..

Do you like to swap op-amps and do other Mods?
If so, would you have to factor in accessability to the PCB in your design?


Gary.

---

I do indeed need quick access to the pcb. I am planning on making the top panel easily removable so i can gain access to the innards.

Since I will be changing all buttons, sockets, etc to panel mount versions, I will be de-soldering all the current parts and then neatly bridging the gap with equipment wire.

Where possible, I will be placing a connector on the pcb so I can simply undo the connector to remove all external parts from the PCB. (The line out and digital in connectors will likely be hard wired as I dont want to introduce extra connections which might alter the sound.)

good solution!

If I was you id be keeping close tabs on the cost....
I ge the feeling this could b something that other people would pay for?

Good luck!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gazjam

good solution!

If I was you id be keeping close tabs on the cost....
I ge the feeling this could b something that other people would pay for?

Good luck!

---

Already done. :)
I have an excel spreadsheet with part numbers, costs, quantities, where to buy and links to the parts in question.

The most expensive parts of this case are, by far, the front and rear panels.
10mm thick CNC'ed and then finished panels aren't cheap as I have discovered.
HiFi 2000 has said they will machine the panels for me, so im just tweaking my designs a little to incorporate future mods. :eyebrows:
(If im going to spend ~£50+ per panel, I'm going to make sure I have thought everything through very carefully.)

If others wish to go the same route however, I would go with something a little less expensive.
This project has already met and passed the 3 figure mark, and that's on the front and rear panels alone. :lol:

Here is a little something to give everyone a clue to the size of my case:
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/403...vsoriginal.png

Hi James

Fantastic info, design and details so far....I can't wait to see this built, in the flesh via photos.

The talent of AOS members is an amazing thing to see.

Regards D S D L

Reminds me of those old Rogers amplifiers..............

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The Grand Wazoo

Reminds me of those old Rogers amplifiers..............

---

A75/A100 you mean

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dalek Supreme D L

Hi James

Fantastic info, design and details so far....I can't wait to see this built, in the flesh via photos.

The talent of AOS members is an amazing thing to see.

Regards D S D L

---

Making a mistake with that back overlapping pannel i say ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andre

Making a mistake with that back overlapping pannel i say ;)

---

Does no-one like the overlapping back panel?
The panels both overlap by 5mm, so hardly a serious overlap. :lol:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Carson

Does no-one like the overlapping back panel?

---

I Don't :lolsign:

I personally don't like it - I would prefer (for me) a squared-off design, but if you want the overlap, then to my eyes it looks best on both front and back not just the front. Just my opinion!

The 22K linear or 20K log pots are good enough. My choice of 20K linear was purely due to availability of that component at the time of design.

I think it looks great, but will it really sound any better for it ?

Course it will, 'cos it looks so much better and a lot of effort went into it :lol:

not everyone like my case, but it is for practical reason. I discovered that posting a parcel that weights less than 2KG is far cheaper than posting one that weights 2.1KG. In the UK alone it makes a difference of about £13 via RM Special Delivery.

Ooo, I just stumble across this. Very nice work so far James, I love the design. Very understated and minimal but classy. Personally I like the original case but your new one definitely takes it to the next level. I look forward to seeing the finished article. :cool: