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Not painted,Quote:
Originally Posted by Macca
PS5 is a Modular design, the white side plates are designed to be removed for cleaning exhaust vents of cooling system.
Happy bonus is you can swap the sideplates out, and I fitted some black 3rd party ones.
Looks much better blacked out I think, matches the PS Audio gear well.
Ah right. Yes it does look better.
Yeah. Black is best in my book. (where possible)Quote:
Originally Posted by Macca
looking good Gaz... top job as usual mate.:)
I see a red doorQuote:
Originally Posted by Macca
And I want it painted black
No colors anymore
I want them to turn black
:)
And to round off the weekend of fun.
Some time on the new speakers now, have a feel now for their sound signature, so time to start messin' around.
From the factory they come fitted with the usual link bars hooking up the biwire terminals, though these ones look kinda cool.
https://i.imgur.com/NC0H1YO.jpg
First step was to remove these and fit better speaker cable jumpers and see what the effect of that was.
Have some unused Duelund DCA16GA tin plated copper in cotton and oil I bought for my Impulse H2 refurb (one day!) so cut of 4 small lengths of that, just to hear the effects of removing the link bars.
Speakers were already great, so this was going to be interesting.
https://i.imgur.com/UQk2k9r.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/prKQ3pC.jpg
... and
its true what you read.
Get rid of the supplied bars with any speaker that comes with them, the sound just opened up, no more slightly muddled top end, details were coming through a lot better.
Ran with those for a couple of days to get used to the sound of those.
Very good, nice improvement over before, soundstage had opened up a fair bit too.
So far so what, but this is where it gets a bit more interesting. :eyebrows:
Remembering I had 2 lengths of the Duelund 16GA sitting in a drawer and being really impressed with the sound of just using short lengths for jumper cables, I thought about how I could better make use of the new cable hookup options I had between the new speakers and the big Meridian power amp.
Well:
Biwire terminals on the speakers, so why not hook up the Duelund as a 2nd run of cable to the amp, see how that affects things?
Use my current Morrow SP7 MkII with Eichmann KLEI connectors for the bass, and the Duelund for the Treble?
At this point I was just experimenting, still feel the speakers need some time on them to fully open up, but just enjoying the music meantime and not over thinking it.
So stripped the Duelund back to fresh wire and connected it to the Treble terminals of the speakers.
My original plan was to make up jumpers made from the Morrow cable terminated with the same KLEI silver banana plugs, (Go on any forum and Biwiring benefits are moot...), so original plan was to run jumpers of the same cable and call it done.
I was just playing around with options, so why not?
Speaker connections done, now to the amp.
https://i.imgur.com/FUq1uu7.jpg
Oh...
I'd forgotten about that...
Last speakers I used only had 1 set of binding posts , so I'd hooked them up to the meridian using 1 set of terminals.
The 557 power amp has a trick up its sleeve, its a dual mono amp.
Two separate amplifiers in one chassis.
Share the same Toroidal transformer, sure, at least the primary winding, but was only thinking about testing biwiring never mind...possibly getting benefits of biamping, or even monoblocks?
With my previous Dali Zensor 5's (from the Meridian's point of view) I was using half of one amp for the bass, and half of the other for the treble.
If I ran two runs of cable, and hooked it up Monoblock style: (One internal amp for one speaker the other for the other) the speakers would be much better served from the power amp.
Cool, hadn't thought of that, wonder how it sounds in comparison?
Speaking of that transformer, its a 1.6KVA and can deliver clean 30A down to 2 Ohms.
So a bit of a beast.
The Meridian pretty much doubles up watts at half impedance and at 200 watts @ 8ohm I wasn't worrying too much about measurements...I knew power delivery wasn't going to be an issue.
The Wharfedale speakers' impedance curve generally dips down close to 4 Ohm, and according to the Meridian 557 manual utilising both sets of terminals would result in best sound quality if you have speakers with biamp terminals.
Effectively running the amp as Monoblocks: One amp for one speaker the other for the other.
https://i.imgur.com/Ro9apAN.jpg
And did it give the best sound?
Short answer:
YES.
Step change better.
"No substitute for cubic inches" as they say, feel the speakers are being driven an awful lot better than before.
Low end grip, rock solid soundstage...all the hifi buzzwords.
The Meridian is a beast.
Probably hearing more of what its capable of now.
Standout moment I think is listening to Agnes Obel live?
Rock solid piano notes, appearing in space and having the "thwack" of a drum hit, and the reverb of that taking over 10 seconds to fade away from its space in the soundstage, whilst other stuff was going on at the same time.
Never heard this before, never heard my system sound so "live music" and in the room.
Sounds like you’re getting a good result mate, nice one.
Hi Gaz,
I have recently been experimenting with my jumper cables (as my speakers require 10 in total!).
I was also very pleased with the Duelund stuff which was an upgrade from Van Damme/Mark Grant/Tellurium Q Ultra Blue, then I gave some of this a try.
It's quite thick so you can split it or buy thinner gauge to begin with but its an absolute cut above. Everything more, everything.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...38394c4dsHY7sF
Fair enough, might not make as big a difference on some systems with less jumpers but for the price it's worth a try I reckon!
I just connect them using bare wire for 'purest' signal transfer. If the bare wire oxidizes I have a load more to just put in plus I don't think it will actually deteriorate to be honest.
Big upgrade for me and the price was right.
https://i.ibb.co/pK68rNh/IMG-20210529-124201-348.jpg
Looks like it’ll be high capacitance, which may be an issue in some systems.
Yes entirely possible but can also use a thinner gauge (so less strands in total) I believe the improvement may be due to each strand having its own individual dialectic (teflon) and the increased capacitance is outweighed by the improvement in clarity. As well as the OCC cable sounding better than OFC. I may try some non individually stranded cable at some point (one dialectic) but it does sound excellent in this configuration. As always system dependent potentially.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali Tait
High capacitance to what?
There are two 'plates' to a capacitor, I don't see another one. If you mean between each cable then they are all at the same potential so a non issue IMB.
Agreed - but maybe the suggestion is that those strands with the clear insulation are separated from those with the coloured insulation, each set then being connected together and the whole used as a two-wire system. Now that would have high capacitance. But capacitance is not much of a concern with speaker cables. Far more important are low loop resistance and low loop inductance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Firebottle
I'm amused by the belief that the long crystal size achieved by the Ohno continuous cast process is maintained once the wires are plaited together, or bent into a radius which exceeds the wire's natural bend radius. I'm also sceptical about the 99.99999% copper purity claimed; China is known for the often poor quality of copper it produces.
Having moved to OCC for interconnects and speaker cable I can attest its superiority for signal transfer.
I am amused by the improvement in SQ I'm getting from cables costing a pittance. :ner: The copper is not produced in China, I think most of it is mined in Taiwan/Malaysia possibly. Whether their claims of purity are accurate or not is inconsequential to me so long as they sound better, they do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry
Whatever works for you is fine by me. Happy listening :)
(Regardless of where the copper ore is mined, the refinement will be carried out elsewhere.)
Interesting cable that Chris, and not expensive either just for the ammount of cable you get for your money.
Similar construction n design philosophy to the Morrow SP7 I use too.
(Individually insulated cores)
https://www.morrowaudio.com/pages/ssi-cable-technology
Some more modding schennanigans on the way... :)
Lining up my next system project, this one should be a doozy.
Similar to what I did with my Oppo 203 HERE:
https://theartofsound.net/forum/show...ajor-Oppo-mods
I'm looking to hot Rod my PS Audio Directstream Dac.
That, along with the Oppo, are the hub of the digital setup and any gains here will lift the whole system.
So will improve a lot of things, Streaming, CD playback, YouTube music, Netflix movies...etc.
I'm looking at:
1)
Upgrading the audio transformers on the Analogue board with beefier, quieter, better ones.
The first (post prototype) dac was originally designed around these specific transformers, but lesser ones were used when it went into production to keep the cost down.
Drop in replacement, Same pin arrangement as the stock one, desolder and fit.
Probably get someone else to do this work, bit above my paygrade soldering skills wise!
Big thread over on PS Audio forums about it, all saying upgrades take dac to the next level.
Should be good. Someone else's pics that's done the Mod.
On their way from Germany, should land sometime next week.
Old Transformers
https://aws1.discourse-cdn.com/busin...03c7c3c5d.jpeg
New Transformers
https://aws1.discourse-cdn.com/busin...0df0ee535.jpeg
2)
External linear power supply to power the Analogue board.
Need to drill out hole in back panel blanking plate to fit 4 pin DC power socket, and make up appropriate internal DC cable to sit between socket and jumper on the board.
Will be looking up best sounding hookup wire, connectors n stuff as the Project rolls on.
As to linear power supply, originally thought Paul Hynes, but I don't think they are available anymore, so looked around and found this one.
Best of the rest apparently, and matches the dacs quality well I think.
Farad Super3
https://faradpowersupplies.com/shop/...ault/super.jpg
https://faradpowersupplies.com/shop/...o/dc_output-5v
It's very well reviewed too.
https://faradpowersupplies.com/shop/...3-testimonials
3)
Synergistic Research Orange Fuse
Have SR fused elsewhere in my system and (to my ears :)) make an appreciable improvement.
Wanting to squeeze the best out the Dac...especially as it's had its final FPGA firmware update...is a good plan, and from experience a good fuse can improve things.
Circuit breaker would be better, but cant have everything!
Looking forward to see what comes out at the end.
Wish me luck!
:thumbsup:
Speaking of fuses, this arrived this morning.
https://i.imgur.com/GTLnKvJ.jpg
Got this for the Audiolab CD transport.
It responded well to better isolation feet and case damping - the usual CD player mods - so this should bring a little extra too.
This fuse gets great write ups, and whilst at £38 its not chump change, if it improves things its money well spent.
A weekend of enjoying my CDs awaits. :D
Didn't want to go TOO crazy with a fuse for this, better to put a "good enough improvement" fuse in there and maybe improve the digital cable to the Dac later on?
Have replaced fuses with better in a few bits of kit now, and doing this can genuinely make a surprising improvement.
Best of the bunch are SR fuses imo, couple of SR Blacks dotted about and now have a Blue in my Pre-amp.
Swapped out the input 12AU7 valves in my Pre-Amp recently,
with the SR fuse added as well, really hearing what the BHK Pre can do without the bottleneck of a stock fuse in there.
Couple of SR Orange fuses coming next week, one for the big Meridian poweramp, another for the Dac.
Decided to splurge with these two, its good kit, might as well get the best out of it. :)
Tonight's schennanigans....
5A for the Meridian power amp, 1A for the Dac.
https://i.imgur.com/idkg0vX.jpg
New valve day.
Input stage/ volume control on Preamp uses ECC82 signal valves as part of the design, been running stock ones from new, over 3 years now.
Amps normally stone cold quiet, but felt one channel was a wee bit hissier than it should be, so decided to swap out the input valves.
Have faffed about (and been stung) chasing after potentially fake/tired/unreliable NOS valves, and life's too short for that hassle.
From the new manufactured 12AU7s, these Genalex Gold Lions seem to get consistent praise used across different amps, so went for them.
My Preamp responds well to valve improvements, see how this goes.
Will need a bit of time on em to bloom of course.
All good stuff, and at 70 quid for a matched pair won't break the bank.
https://i.imgur.com/NApDGRg.jpeg
Out with the old, In with the new.
https://i.imgur.com/4w4x1zA.jpeg
Gold Lions are replacing the stock Psvane's.
Should be an interesting weekend of listening.
I snapped a pin on the Psvane's I had in a phono stage and replaced them with Gold Lion's. I preferred the Gold Lions no doubt.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
They're the thinking man's tube for me. As in don't actually have to 'think' about it too much as all their models perform very well. Yes you can get so called 'better' tubes but the ball ache of sourcing NOS and genuine tubes (especially well matched) is just getting a bit tedious if you ask me.
They're the best new production tube I've heard.
Enjoy.
Cheers Chris,
that’s good to know.
Your thinkings the same as mine I think,
been down that NOS rabbit hole, just not a chase I can be arsed with any more.
Yep know what you mean mate, it's a real minefield nowadays, and just getting worse. Just glad I've already got all the small valves I'll likely need.
Last Christmas present to myself, and last round of tweak level upgrades for 2021.
Better isolation feet for Pre and Power amps, as well as my Dac.
POWER AMP
Had previously just plonked the big Meridian 557 down on stock rubber feet onto glass top shelf of my rack, would get around to something different at some point?
Its a bit of a beast at 60lbs, with a heckin’ big and heavy transformer, so knew directly onto glass wasn’t the best way to sit it.
Isoacoustics to the rescue.
Patented design, and used around the world in top recording Studio’s, that’ll work for me.
Use some of their Orea feet under my turntable to good effect, and had their studio monitor stands in the past, so know from experience these work really well.
Each foot takes up to 20Lbs, so 4 under the amp is perfect.
https://i.imgur.com/ARx5TQx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/B4POJjh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WPEmG5p.jpg
PREAMP AND DAC
These isolation pucks have an operating performance window, based on weight of what you sit on them?
Unlike the Meridian, my Preamp and Dac are much lighter at 22lbs each,
so different products were needed.
Again,
Isoacoustics to the rescue.
you match the product to the weight, so got a set of the 8 smaller Isopuck Mini’s, each takes 6 lbs, so 4 under each bit of kit.
https://i.imgur.com/WERS1hr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/RBnPGE0.jpg
So that’s all that done then, what was the result?
Noticeable change in two areas:
Good improvements to soundstage and bass definition.
The system gets out the way better, overall a nice step up.
At £65 and £77 for both sets, didn’t break the bank, and great bang for buck for what they cost.
Highly recommended.
I was banging on about these beauties in 2018Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app
Was advised by Mark Westley of Tresham fame about these supports ... predominantly used to support studio monitors on the edge of mixing desks....
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Hi Don.Quote:
Originally Posted by donmarrese
Yup,
very impressed with these.
Mark Westley, that's the Tannoy Head Production Engineer?
Be picking up another set of the 8 Mini pucks for under my Oppo 203 and Audiolab 6000CDT.
Highly recommended Peeps.
Let the 2022 shenanigans commence
Where I'm coming from nowadays, System wise...
is to make the most of what I have.
Who knows what financial pressures are round the corner, right?
Last major upgrade i did was better speakers, a big jump for sure and now hearing more of what the rest of the kit is capable of.
With that in mind...and having enjoyed modding my Oppo bluray player..going forward to '22 I'm looking at Mods for my system.
In what way can I improve on what I have?
UP TO THIS POINT:
AC Power and all cables are a done deal.
and I've already looked at better isolation feet: (Previous post)
The Isoacoustics footers really did the business, improved things for my Poweramp, Pre and Dac.
Getting another set for the Audiolab CD Transport and Oppo 203 soon.
One additional isolation thing I want to do is for my speakers,
and replace the supplied spike feet with better.
Speaker/floor interaction can be a big deal and getting this right will make a difference.
Current setup:
https://i.imgur.com/REyTxIP.jpg
I had the speakers sitting on a big heavy ceramic floor tile, sat on carpet before - my Impulse H2's had bass that went through the floor and the slabs helped.
Never thought to remove them for the Wharfedales, but tried it and with the spikes sitting on Sound Damped Steel isolation plates (black discs on carpet) the Evo 4.4's bass and soundstaging improved.
Had initially thought about IsoAcoustic's own GAIA replacement speaker feet,
but these are quite large, would raise the tweeter height too much and kinda ruin the aesthetic of the speaker.
Painfully expensive too, not Stillpoints money but still too salty.
Read a lot of the American hifi forums and the guys over at Herbies Labs in the US are highly thought of?
Be picking up a set of their speaker isolation feet, and sitting my speaker spikes in those to replace stock Wharfedale spike pads.
Well priced too.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/22...g?v=1569270214
After this I'll call speakers DONE.
that should keep u busy gary... hows the espressos working out??
Done any room treatment?
Tried that Martin,Quote:
Originally Posted by Macca
felt it robbed the music of some "life"?
Luckily, any bass room nodes seem to be out of earshot :)
Something that worked though was when I got the new speakers I measured out the room, with "correct" distance ratio's for placing the speaker away from rear and side walls.
That worked well for soundstaging and bass, nice improvement.
Technically my rooms a good candidate for treatment, huge glass picturframe on back wall, large windows to one side, but it kinda just works.
yep that can happen. Not something you can do haphazardly. Plus sometimes a room just works with the normal furnishings and more is overkill.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
I just have a little to absorb first reflections and in one corner to kill some bounce I was getting. Need to do the opposite corner too but haven't got around to ordering the glue to put the foam tiles up. I'll do that now I think while it's on my mind :)
Enjoying my (sensibly moderated) two cups of black gold per day.Quote:
Originally Posted by struth
Have the Sage Grinder dialled in to give the right ammount of coffee for the PID settings I've settled on with the Lelit.
There's two programmable brewing Presets you can dial in,
after a bit of trial and error I'm more than happy with the results, and as both grinder and machine are programmed in the results are consistent too.
Santa Claus brought me some 'propa' accessories for the machine, improved on the coffee quality a fair bit?
https://i.imgur.com/VY2oh94.jpg
Using a heavy Tamper with the machine makes things a lot better than the plastic lightweight dollhouse patio table that came with it.
The 58.5mm size was recommended for my machine, so went with Lelit's own.
Makes for a far better result,
Weighs a ton though!
:thumbsup:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Macca
looks good; nice jug too
Was Marco's recommendation,
he was right on this one!
...don't let on I said that though :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by struth
lol.. what is it? a fellows maybe?Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
First up for 2022
PS AUDIO Directstream Dac Upgrades
The push here is to try and improve on what is already a great sounding Dac?
Its unusual in its FPGA architecture in that it doesn't have a "dac chip" as such, and its sound can be improved with firmware updates.
It came out in 2015 and every year since PS Audio has provided these free upgrades.
All things come to an end though,
PS Audio are working on a MKII version with improved internal components, higher spec FPGA chip, improved transformers and the like.
So no more annual Firmware improvements.
Not all's lost though. :thumbsup:
The Dacs designer Ted Smith, a frequent poster on the more technical aspects of his Dac on the PS Audio forum
suggested a few ways his older MKI Dac could be improved, as He wont be writing any more firmware updates for it.
There is a LONG "Modding the Directstream Dac" thread on PS Audio forum and all of these mods have been successfully done by many folks.
All say they lift the Dac up to the next level.
I've already fitted an SR Orange fuse internally in the Dac,
it responds well to clean AC power, so lets find out.
I'm gonna do them all.
NAMELY:
1.
Improved analogue output board Transformers
For BOM cost savings they went with cheaper ones in 2015, the better ones the Dac was designed around are still available, and are a straight pin replacement swap out.
I have the improved Transformers, and will ship out the Analogue board to get someone handier with a soldering iron than I to swap them out.
2.
EMI/RFI suppression inside the Dac.
Placement of this material at key "noisy" areas inside the Dac to reduce electrical noise.
(Complete underside of digital board, Rear of the display, key chips etc)
I have several sheets of Stillpoints ERS Fabric for the job.
3.
Independent linear power supply/ Isolation of the Digital and Analogue stages of the Dac.
High End digital designs like DCS, MSB and the like make effort on clean power, and separating the digital and analogue stages.
Its all about reducing electrical noise and cross-talk inside the Dac.
As luck and circumstance would have it,
A community spirited, US based PS Audio fan and Electrical Engineer over on the Forum:
Designed, manufactured and sold as a Forum "Group Buy" a power supply control board, to do exactly this and allow the Analogue board to be independently powered by its own linear power supply.
I was in on the Group Buy, and have the linear power supply board. Will be buying quality LPS for the Dac later this Year.
SO WITH ALL THAT SAID,
Some open heart Dac surgery to commence!
https://i.imgur.com/RpKZkaF.jpg
Can't do everything right away:
1. Don't have a linear power supply to isolate/separately power the analogue board
2. Getting improved Transformers fitted by a 3rd party
https://aws1.discourse-cdn.com/busin...0df0ee535.jpeg
What I can do though:
1. Have the Stillpoints ERS fabric, will fit it in recommended places to reduce internal RFI/EMI in the Dac.
https://aws1.discourse-cdn.com/busin...1332x1000.jpeg
2. Will fit the power control card anyway, as its designer says it lowers noise "as is" in the dac due to its high quality filtering.
https://i.imgur.com/66xKjfu.jpg
Here goes,
Wish me Luck! :eek:
Bialetti.Quote:
Originally Posted by struth
"Propa" Italian gear, to match the machine. :cool:
Really inexpensive too, about 12 quid?
Feels great quality.
Looks interesting. Hope it all works out OK buddy :)
Looks good mate. Machine must be settling nicely as you don't bother posting [emoji3526]Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
Mine is doing fine too https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...06f1c39412.jpg
Looking good Grant.
Still don't have a Tamping mat yet.
It TOO is on zee List...
Thanks Brian,Quote:
Originally Posted by brian2957
Don't work Fridays, so spent today doing the Modding work that I could do up to this point,
Fitting the Power supply control board, and the Stillpoints ERS fabric internally in the Dac.
Basically the goal here was to isolate the digital input board as much as possible, especially the more "noisier" chips like FPGA and the like.
Completely isolated the back of the digital board in the ERS stuff, as well as all the digital inputs.
Only use 2, the i2s for my Oppo and the coax for the Audiolab CD Transport, and both have been treated.
All done,
tested and working and plumbed back into the rig.
Its making music, so thats always a good sign.
:)
From a complete power shutdown,
The Dac takes a day or two to get back on song so casual tunes over tonight and tomorrow, then I'll sit down for a proper listen.
Be fun to observe the changes these mods have made, immediately after powering on the first track I put on the Audiolab (Trevor Jones' "Excaliber" Score), the sound was "different" noticably more 3D and beefier, a bigger sense of scale to the music?
Reduction of noise on the digital side and possible better internal power filtering with the power control board fitted, so makes sense.
Good stuff,
the guys at PS Audio who recommended these mods really know their stuff.
Some fun listening over the weekend to come.
Will post Photos of the Mods over the weekend,
bit knackered, dinner and telly calls.
(and maybe a wee dram too, did well getting these mods done today. :D)
All part of the hobby mate. Enjoy :)
I appreciate (and endorse) this Sentiment.Quote:
Originally Posted by brian2957
ok,
couple of days on the Dac Mods now, hearing what they brought to the table.
The Display PCB of the Dac:
https://i.imgur.com/REPYNji.jpeg
Double sided tape doing it's thing:
https://i.imgur.com/uJ6xjrQ.jpeg
Material cut to shape and applied.
https://i.imgur.com/97ZWBrq.jpeg
The Dac's touchscreen display is a big culprit in chucking in excessive RF and EMI noise.
Digital board removed.
Every screw turn a heart in the mouth "Will I cock this up" moment :eek:
https://i.imgur.com/vpeuhqt.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/n64GPD7.jpeg
Treating the Digital Input Board:
https://i.imgur.com/WrH8FMQ.jpeg
Material cut to shape and selectively placed bits of double sided tape applied to the PCB.
The Stillpoints ERS fabric stuff is conductive (carbon fibers in it), so not taking chances and covering the exposed edges with electrical tape.)
Phew!
Happy that's done.
https://i.imgur.com/57k95SD.jpeg
Digital Board and Transformers with RFI/EMI treatment:
https://i.imgur.com/2xJFDxh.jpg
Fitting the Power supply control board:
PS Audio (In their wisdom) made their Dac a "modular" design?
in that they built in an Expansion port, which enabled you to take the option of fitting their Network Streamer Card.
As said previously,
A community spirited Electrical Engineer and PS Audio Fan did a thing.
(based on the Dac Designers suggested improvements to his outgoing Dac design, at "end of life" with no further Firmware upgrades) took his recommendation as an upgrade of splitting the analogue and digital stages and powering them independently and created a Thing.
He designed, manufactured and did a Group Buy on his PCB design, which does exactly what Ted Smith the Dac designer suggested.
Plug n Play.
After fitting the board and some internal power cabling rerouting,
I now have the future upgrade option of powering the Analogue section of the Dac independently with a Teddy Pardo/ Paul Hynes level linear power supply.
How cool is that? :)
https://i.imgur.com/J6hrt6x.jpeg
All good.
The presentation has changed in a way that's noticeable, and its a significant improvement.
Its a step change better, on a par with listening to the same Album on Vinyl I'd say.
Happy I did the Mods,
More to come when I swap out the analogue output board Transformers,
which is a very significant improvement from the PS Audio Folks that have already done all the Mods.
youve been busy.. at least your hearing an improvement and had fun doing it:D
This is the Way... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by struth