I'll be very interested to know what difference this makes Rich. Do let us know. :) What linear supply are you using? Cheers.Quote:
Originally Posted by lovejoy
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I'll be very interested to know what difference this makes Rich. Do let us know. :) What linear supply are you using? Cheers.Quote:
Originally Posted by lovejoy
Ditto Rich, I think this could be the way to go forwards.
Cheers Andy
Rich, I guess you are running short leads from the power supply to the Caiman to avoid potential IR drop. It then comes down to a fast enough transient current supply to the DAC or audio stage (if still used). We are debating at the moment whether a good linear power supply can supply a transient current demand as quick as a good cap across the power supply. I think this is why Clive suggests still keeping a small polyprop cap in there.
Another noob question, if you do not mind, now that my Caiman mods kit has finally arrived from Tirna (post office messing me around again).
What is the best way to remove these LEDs from their fixtures. Should I force them cold or heat the glue first? What temp do you suggest if I heat them and for how long?
I am being careful since I would struggle to fix anything should I break it.
Thanks for any help.
Sean
The glue isn't very strong, so you should just be able to push them from the outside, then pull them free from the inside. I've not had any problems doing this on the numerous occasions I've dismantled mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ikemen
Good luck. :)
Thanks, mission accomplished.
Hi guys,
The linear supply is a TeddyReg circuit supplying 15V. I bought a load of the bare boards from a group buy over on Pink Fish Media going back maybe 18 months to 2 years ago. The supply cable from the output of the board into the Caiman isn't that short - probably around 3ft long in fact, but as I recall, the addition of a 10uF tant (at C6 I think but now I'm really stretching the old grey cells) meant that keeping the leads short wasn't so critical.
The TeddyReg is supplied by a pretty chunky toroidal transformer which was salvaged from an old broken piece of kit and supplies 18-0, which is then passed through Schottky diodes into a low ESR 20,000uF cap. For something that was cobbled together I'm really pleased with how it works with the Caiman - and for anyone who has a linear supply and is suffering some sibilance, I can highly recommend the Schottky diodes over the standard types.
I had been thinking of putting a snubber across the 20,000uF cap, but I think I'll have a go at removing the 10,000uF in the Caiman first and then also try a small polyprop in there and see what difference there is with and without input cap.
I decided that seen as several of us were using SuperTeddy regs in our linear supplies that I'd email Teddy Pardo to ask what cap he would recommend using.
He said that he would recommend using a 10uF film or Tantalum cap. Unless you have the supply extremely close to the DAC (a few cm), then you could get away with as low as 0.1uF.
So under normal conditions a 10uF film or tant cap will be best.
I hope that helps. :)
I found a 63V 10uF poly film cap at work today, so I might try installing that this week.
Sounds like a general accord is being formed (MartinT on the moded Beresford thread) is also trying something very similar. Once I can find a descend box to put my power supply in I'll follow on with a film cap replacing the 10mF beast. Look forward to hearing your first thoughts on the effect.Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy
Cheers Andy
I've just noticed the WIMA I was going to use is 22uF 16V, cutting it too fine as I set my SuperTeddy to 16V output. I shall have to buy something suitable so I'm scouting around and will resume in a few days' time.