Gale GS401 Re-foam Project

The label was almost impossible to get off the old crossover (by cutting around the opening) and what actually peeled off was the top film layer of the original label, impossibly thin and wanting to just disintegrate in my hand. I did the best I could with it but this was about the fourth attempt using Aleen's Tacky Glue.

It looks better in real life than in the photo, but to be honest I was only trying to preserve the serial number to keep them honest. This is what will be viewable through the rear cabinet access hole when it's all been assembled in place.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2894/8...79369751_b.jpg

I've just noticed something: my two speakers are serial nos. 2284 and 2556, quite a difference. They are also constructed differently internally (though not externally). The chap I bought them from says he had them since new. Why the discrepancy? Could he have had one replaced under warranty?

Fascinating, as the cabinets definitely look like they were built by different people, even to the internal brace from rear to baffle being angled differently in the two speakers.

Great job so far Martin - I always wanted to try 401s but they have always been expensive s/h even 20 years ago. What is the situation with the tweeters? Are they working okay after all? If not it may be worth sourcing an original pair, evne though it is pricey the re-sale value of the speakers once finished would seem to warrant it.

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Originally Posted by Macca

What is the situation with the tweeters?

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Delicate. One looks fine, the other has suffered from the top fibre mounting having warped. I've tried gluing it down and weighting it with an egg cup, to limited success. They both read fine resistance-wise (about 5.5 Ohms). I'm going to test fire the tweeters through the crossover over the weekend and have a listen. If they sound good, I'll leave them alone.

If I have to replace them, I'll probably go with the Seas direct replacement (H0737) since sourcing a couple of decent HF2000 tweeters will cost more than I've paid for the whole project so far.

Sounds like they could be okay, which is good. :)

Looking good Martin, just one thing on the crossovers. Seeing those bare wires crossing over without insulation makes me feel uncomfortable. I'd definitely have put sleeving on those.

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Originally Posted by MartinT

The label was almost impossible to get off

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2894/8...79369751_b.jpg

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Id get that redesigned omitting what you've removed get some screen printed on thick acrylic or formica, as long as it looks on the simular lines as the original.. You ought to have really done that before building the new board as to get the binding posts in a suitable uniform area.

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Originally Posted by walpurgis

Seeing those bare wires crossing over without insulation makes me feel uncomfortable.

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I thought of that, Geoff, but the choke wires are enamel insulated and there is a height gap between them that you cannot see in the photo.

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Originally Posted by Rare Bird

Id get that redesigned

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I thought of omitting them altogether, Andr'e, but as I said I wanted to preserve the labels for authenticity and for the serial numbers. The appearance doesn't bother me as they're for the rear panel and I won't be looking at them every day!

Good news. I've just tested the tweeters on a lash-up with a crossover and they both work fine!