Actually they have bare copper ends but I found that not all the enamel had been scraped off properly. I suggest you give the wire ends a little rub with sandpaper and then they will solder nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by apmusson
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Actually they have bare copper ends but I found that not all the enamel had been scraped off properly. I suggest you give the wire ends a little rub with sandpaper and then they will solder nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by apmusson
Thanks MartinQuote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
I will certainly do that. To tell you the truth I have been putting off messing with the caiman circuit board and the fact that I can do this soldering separately (where the only damage I could do is limited to the claritycaps) is giving me the confidence to attempt it.
Ade
Hi Ade,Quote:
Originally Posted by apmusson
I've one of those Maplin CBR supply's, and are looking into improving the components in it...
Wouldn't mind some info on what you did to it, and a comment on the improvments?
Our Dacs seem to be at the same stage..
You are highly unlikely to get any difference in audible bass level from changing a 1uf cap to 1.6uf ;) All you'll be doing is shifting the -3Db frequency lower & it'll already be sub 10Hz.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
There is a very good reason for possibly doing this though & not a lot of people tend to think about it. The phase of the waveform will still be shifted slightly at audible frequencies (20Hz & higher) & this along with phase shifts caused by loudspeakers can be heard :doh:
What's even worse is that nearly every (if not all) bit/s of kit in the audio chain will also likely have a high pass filter due to capacitors at about the same frequency. The consequencies of this will definately be heard in the audio band :eek: In reality if all these DC blocking filters were at 0.1Hz or lower, there would be a definate increase in fidelity in the lower bass range due to vastly less equipment induced phase shift :)
Moral is to keep the -3Db frequency as low as possible except on a warp filter for a record deck :eyebrows:
Anyone tried 10uf caps in the Caiman (my amp is 20k ohm impedance)? Interested in the type of cap tried and benefits/disadvantages.
I think Leo tried some 10uf MKP2000 but not sure if he thought they bettered the good old "benchmark" 47uf non polar Rubycons.
Regards
Chris
I think he's still running them in,but I'd say any half decent film cap should better an electrolytic.
OMartin,how are you getting on with the CC's? Any further improvements?
Gaz,
Sorry if I misled you - the mod I did was adjusting the output voltage as stan indicated in his post. I would love to be able to claim otherwise - but it just aint true. :doh:
I will definitely give an update on the ClarityCaps once I've soldered and installed them and given them 24 hours (?) burnin time.
Ade
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
Ah, ok. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by apmusson
Good luck with the soldering!
They're improving nicely, Ali, but I don't quite have the subterranean bass of the Rubycons. My preamp's single-ended input impedance is 47k ohms. I'm going to order a couple of 1.6uF Clarity ESAs (the MRs are too big). I'll properly wrap them in foam to prevent vibration against the PCB rather than just use the foam pads I've stuck to the current ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali Tait