Good work Geoff.
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Good work Geoff.
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Hopefully, the Corellis will be finished by the end of next week if all the parts arrive.
I'm an old hand at this sort of stuff Oliver. Been doing it for forty years or more, so I should be getting things right by now (most of the time :)).
I have more projects in the pipeline and they'll be appearing here in due course.
I normally get the veneer colour how I want it first, then use clear satin acrylic varnish (water based), but this time I chose Beech colour, as it looked about right for what I wanted. A nice pale gold.
Ah well. It would appear that I now own six pairs of loudspeakers (complete ones that is :)).
I just spotted these Wharfedale 504's about to finish on ebay with no bids, so I bunged a cheeky one in and won. Local to me as well. They look in very good condition.
http://i63.tinypic.com/28vdhnc.jpg
The 504 is a bit of a sleeper. Few folk know about these. The sound quality is extremely good. Nice and compact too, so I'll have room for them.
I'll pick them up in the next few days.
more speaks Geoff? you cornering the market again.:) They look decent
Ive seen these before somewhere but not heard them. Hope you like em.
Thats a shame. Be hard to find a replacement if not impossible I guess. What you got in mind? some full rangers?
Ah. You know me too well Grant! :D
Yes, I have two pairs of these that have been waiting for a home for a long time.
http://i63.tinypic.com/slha1w.jpg
The picture does not do justice. It's a five inch unit with a big screened magnet. Looks like a twin cone B110.
8 ohm driver that was originally used by Canon. Very nice quality and with rubber cone surrounds. Should be easy to adapt the boxes to take them.
(I really need to dig out a better camera. The macro shots from this 12.1 mp Lumix DMC-LF1 are crap!)
Whats their output? was thinking parallel connection for 4 ohm if they are rated well enough. I'm using a Canon PowerShot SX700 HS; very good camera for a great price imv. hard to beat
I have no specs for the drivers, but reckon being relatively modern, maybe 30/40 watt rated. No idea on sensitivity. I'd only use one in each box, as there is too little volume to run a pair.
I have other cameras. I might dig my old Kodak P880 out. That does great macro shots.
Bugger! I just found a scratch on one of my newly refinished KEF cabinets.
http://i66.tinypic.com/x4nmfn.jpg
Fortunately it's not deep, but I'll have to redo it.
Bet it was the dog, he has big claws and seems to leave scratches in the most unlikely places.
Ah yes.
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If its not deep, a rewax might cure it geoff
Good news. I'll look forward to seeing the recap pics. Need to do the Pioneers !!
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Finally. One Corelli crossover re-capped (sort of). There one old 0.6uF Alcap left. Can't find that value at a sensible price and I'm not forking out £40 for a pair of 'fancy' ones. I've a batch of 0.56uF poly's coming from China. I'll measure them and use the highest valued from the bunch. 0.56 is within tolerance anyway.
http://i67.tinypic.com/2exam9v.jpg
Wasn't well enough during the week to do anything at all, but I'm getting back on form now (I think :rolleyes:).
I'll do the other crossover later, give the cabs a final polish and re-install the drivers. When the 0.56uF caps arrive, I'll have the crossovers out again and fit those and look at maybe 'upgrading' the internal wiring. All the caps have been given a small blob of clear silicone sealant underneath to stop any buzzing against the PCB. The PCB will be given a support pad underneath at the centre. It's just held in place by the four corners at the moment.
(still getting crap resolution from this Lumix DMC-LF1 camera. It's set at 12.1mp (fine) and on macro)
Looks very tidy Geoff. Gonna go for alcap when i do mine.
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Just won these stands for a tenner from ebay. Perfect for the Corellis at 24" tall and local too.
http://i67.tinypic.com/iwu9ec.jpg
Can't fault that. Got the little pads on top too.
Looks like you can fill the columns with sand, hard to tell but they appear to be open at the top?
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I've never heard of that, but it sounds like a very good idea. I've heard of using lead shot, but that's almost too heavy, and far more expensive than sand or graded stone. My cousin had some small speakers on stands, and I pointed out the tops were open to fill them. He was perplexed, why would you? But I piqued it curiosity and he filled them with dry sand and was amazed at the better bass. In fact, while I had heard of filling stands, I really was not prepared for the difference it made!
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The use of sand goes back a long way to the Wharfdale man and others in the 40s and 50s, it is well established.
My recently purchased ADAMs have sand between two cabinet walls, this idea also from that earlier period.
The sand grains also lock into each other; think of the feeling and sound of sand as your foot rolls into it on the beach and it 'crunches' making a sound like snow does, but from the adhesive and abrasive friction of the grains interlocking.
Just finished the Corellis. I'm amazed at how good these are. I'll bung some photos on tomorrow.
Corelli photos. Crap quality images as usual. This time from the Fuji camera.
http://i67.tinypic.com/12500lv.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/20pufsg.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/2m81vfs.jpg
Yes. That is a Tannoy they're stood on and that's a bigger Tannoy behind them.
Look very good Geoff Whats the bass response like?
You get the amp fixed? Was it the bridge rec?
Just reaquainting myself with the KEFs since their recap. I'm certain there is an improvement. The depth and clarity, which were good anyway seem enhanced. It's an extremely transparent and clean sound. The famous bextrene cone 'quack' that afflicted some KEF speakers does not seem evident here. Some ridiculusly deep sounding clean bass coming from these little boxes.
http://i67.tinypic.com/2yyv828.jpg
sweet as!
Tonight's project. I'm rebuilding the motor suspension on a Connoisseur BD2 and giving it a bit of a clean and re-lube.
http://i64.tinypic.com/2vj8yte.jpg
looks like its in need of mouth to mouth Geoff. If anyone can, it'll be you tho:)
Job done. Did it my usual way. Thin neoprene 'O' ring cut and tied instead of the standard elastic bands. The knots have been glued to stop them undoing.
I've done loads of these the same way. It works!
http://i63.tinypic.com/szdfmp.jpg
Next. Refit the motor, clean and lube main bearing, clean top plate, fit new belt and make sure everything works as it should. Then refinish the plinth/base, fit a cartridge and set the arm up, clean the clear lid and job's a good'n.
Still fettling the BD2. Just patched up all the small chips and knocks in the plinth with filler.
It's not for me. I'm giving it to a mate. Well actually, he gave it to me 'cos he didn't know how to sort it, but I'm doing it up and returning it. He likes these.
http://i64.tinypic.com/2uiix07.jpg
One fully restored and properly functional Connoisseur BD2.
http://i67.tinypic.com/nd7jg5.jpg
Wheow! Thats beautiful!
Excellent work on this one Geoff, looks like it just came out of the shop!
Do these sound any good? Never heard one meself.
Nicely done geoff.
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The sound is surprisingly presentable. However, I'm not a fan of the SAU2 arm on the BD2. It has design issues.
The best option is the BD1 turntable, that comes without arm. Then you can mount one of your own choice.
Like this:
http://i64.tinypic.com/24ev0br.jpg
It's one I built some years ago. Note the 'O' ring suspension :). It worked extremely well with the Mission 774. I sold it though.
I have a new project in hand. This:
http://i66.tinypic.com/2czyp7k.jpg
BD1 & Jelco SA-5 arm. Could be good together.