Me and the 1210 are gunna have us some me time....

MIKE!

As always thanks for your comments. I would be most interested in seeing what other things you have done to improve the base plate! Any chance of posting some of your pictures here so we can all tweak to our hearts content :)

Just to change subject, J7 from Audio-origami has finished tweaking and serviced my V! When I get this back I'm going to completely rebuild my 1210 and then finally use the Adjust+ software to set the things up. Then I can start to post some data about the decks performance :cool:

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Originally Posted by REXTON

MIKE!

As always thanks for your comments. I would be most interested in seeing what other things you have done to improve the base plate! Any chance of posting some of your pictures here so we can all tweak to our hearts content :)

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Hi Rexton here are a few pic showing waht I have done with my MK6

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/5...outlethole.jpg

This one shows the hole I have drill into the back of the Rubber Base which is roughly in line with the output socket of my SME-V No kinks or sharp bends in the cable.

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1...rtonecable.jpg

This one shows the cutout to clear the bottom of the plug socket assembly.

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/6...dlecasting.jpg

This pic shows the middle 'composite material' casting. It is a pretty rough, and in fact is less rigid than the MK2 or 3 as a large piece has been cut away to allow for the reset button on the speed control, not good! same as the MK5 I believe.

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/1...lyeurothan.jpg

This is not a pretty picture and will probably put some people off.
However trying to apply these very sticky matterials over a large area is not easy. The excess was cleaned off with Acetone, after the pic was taken.

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/3...dlegluedto.jpg

This shows the middle casting placed into position onto the bottom side of the chassis which is now coated with polyuerothane. Again most of the excess was cleaned off before attaching the rubber base.
The rubber Base was quickly placed into position and tightly bolted to the chassis. The whole was allowed to stand for two days to thoroughly set.

The above procedure will most certainly be seen as a bit radical for many people. However I do believe that it represents probably the ultimate process to achieving a viable housing for the DD drive that can be realised without a large amount of money being spent on a totally new chassis/plinth, which I do not believe is justified.

If I were doing another one, I would apply the matterial to the composite casting, as it is smaller in area compared to the chassis and therefore you do not apply the stuff where it is not needed as I did!!!
Secondly you could cover the chassis with two layers of 'Glad Wrap" which will prevent the material from adhering to the chassis. but will allow the material to exactly follow the profile of the chassis as it sets.
This way you will finish up with a blanket of the material coated to the inner surface of the centre casting when you separate the two, and which will fit snugly to the chassis on re-assembly.

That's very radical, Mike. Presumably you have sacrificed the ability ever to open it up again?

Hi Martin,
Yes in this instance I will not be able to separate the Chassis and the centre moulding. But this doe not worry me as I do not expect to need to.
As I said earlier all the wiring can be accessed with the two parts permanently connected, so it is not a big deal. All that has to be considered is access to the bolts which clamp the tone arm so I have used captive nuts into the tapeared holes.

Mike,

Many many thanks! I think i may try this out!! This is sort of what I had in mind except using sorbothane on the inside of the chasis. I can make the sorbothane as thick as I like so with your mod on the underside and maybe the sorbothane on the inside the chasis will be well and truly dampened! :eek: Have you noticed any sonic differences as I have heard that too much dampening can suck the life out of music?? Incidently I have had to produce a similar cut out
on the underside of the 1210 to mount the stupid 90 degree connector at the base of the V!!

Regards

:cool:

Some neat cutting there Mike:)

Andy,
All you need is a 'Dremel' type tool with the coursest emery wheel, it cuts into the rubber very quickly.

You have not seen me with any tools in my hand Mike.:)

Lol, Andy, you might want to rephrase that!! :eyebrows:

Marco.

Andy,
I can't wait any longer!!!