How to Connect an External Dc Supply to the SL-1200/1210

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Originally Posted by sonddek

The MN bearing seems to work fine. However, since that deck has an Ekos2 fitted and a Timestep PSU, I can't pinpoint the influence of the bearing. It certainly sounds better, in hi-fi terms, than my other stock SL1200's. I'm not sure it's much more musical. I think I would need to do a direct a/b comparison to offer a fair assessment, and that's why I don't have much to say on this subject.

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Hi Sonndek, I use an Ekos 1 which has been heavily modded by John Neilsen of Audio Origami, I call my modded arm an Akos :eyebrows:. It has been rewired with Kondo silver from cartridge tags right through to the SME arm cable socket, avoiding the original cartridge tag leads. In addition the arm has been slightly damped and I use AO's own decouples arm weight (gold coated for visual titalation). At the mo its coupled to an AT OCII whilst the piggy bank fills to enable my Koetsu Black to be revived. Two totally diff cartridges! I also use the TS HE PSU so we have some parallel experience :) I had used my Modded Ekos on my Linn LP12 with great success and it boogies away with the 1210 as well. My Jelco 750D is now on the LP12 doing duties in cubby hole office upstairs. Oh, I forgot, I use MN's bearing on the 1210 :)

Ron :thumbsup:

Well after Paul sent me a very detailed email describing the SR7, it seems to be a much more powerful version of the SR5 which is probably going to do a better version of the TimeStep HE i have installed at the moment. Whilst the HE turns my MN platter around very nicely i cant help but think that it's struggling. I've asked Paul to look into souping up the SR7 in all departments. I'd like to have a Reference level power supply if possible!

I am trying to follow directions on how to connect the DC lead from my external power supply to the proper area for my beloved 1200 so that I can use the power switch once again. I understand that it should be connected to the brown or blue cable that was once used from the internal power supply - which has been since long removed. I do have a brown, blue, and red wire which is attached from the PCB going into the TT (perhaps to the power switch?) The pictures will show the wire outlay.

My power PCB looks a bit different than what I see in the pictures provided by Shuggie - perhaps because my TT is 25 years old.

I have enclosed pictures of my power supply PCB area in my TT. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much.

Mike

OK, with a little ambition, I took a Digital Multimeter and tinkered with the Power Supply PCB. Connecting the brown with the blue wire with the switch off, the DMM showed no continuity. WHen I switched the power on, the DMM registered continuity. The underside of the PCB shows the copper trace of the brown wire not to connect to anything else, the blue wire connects to a resistor and a pole, so can I safely assume that this is where the DC lead is to connect to the brown wire? All of this was measured with no DC connected to the TT.

Thanks all for your help.

Hi Mike,
I have not thought about this before, however I have quickly dismantled my test bed SL1200 and here is the detail that will help you.

a) The on/off switch on the SL1200 operates a normal 2-way micro-switch.

b) The common of the micro-switch goes to the Blue wire

c) The normally closed contact on the micro switch (which is the "Off" position on the knob) goes to the Red wire.

d) The normally open contact (which will close when you twist the knob to the "ON" position) goes to the Brown wire.

If you have a FLUKE type multi meter then you can use this to verify the above connections before proceding.

Now what you require to do is the following:

a) Snip all wires from the circuit board. Do not use the existing terminals which these wires are connected to on the power PCB, as convenient solder terminals for the foregoing steps. There may be variations of circuit design which can cross connect these wires, Noise caps ect.

b) Bare the ends of the Blue and brown wires.

c) Now connect the Positive DC wire coming directly from your external power supply, to the Blue wire. (remove it from the PCB first)

d) Now take a length of good quality wire and connect it to the point where the posive DC wire was connected to the circuit board. In the case of the TS Power Suppy, this will be at the top of the PCB.

e) Now connect the other end of this wire to the Brown wire coming from the Micro Switch.

f) Ensure that both soldered connections are valid and that the joints are insulated.

g) Refit the platter and tune for maximum smoke.

If you have done the above correctly the switch should now control the positive voltage to the PCB, such that the platter will spin when the On/Off knob is turned clockwise to the "On" position.

The Red wire going to the micro switch has no function for us and can be neatly tucked away, in case an application fof it comes to light in the future.

The above is predicated on the wiring at the micro switch being the same as on my unit.
I see no reason why there would be any differences here.

Thanks Mike!

I will perform this mod later this week. Then I can fit your new platter on the TT. I can hardly wait!!!

Mike

I've finally put together a DIY PSU for my Techie using one of Paul Hynes' excellent circuits and was wondering what the best cable would be to use for the connection from the PSU to the turntable. Is it OK to just used standard electrical cable, the type without an earth? Connection to PSU is via 4-pin IEC plug. :scratch:

You only need two cores provided your deck is earthed via the arm cable. I am just about to evaluate Paul Hynes' fine silver connection cable for the Technics (from his SR5-21 PSU) so stand by!

I have some Kimber Quick 16 cable I could also use. :)

Martin, I'd be interested in your opinion of that. Still, I'd like to fit the PSU and see what it sounds like. Might use something just to get it connected for the time being.

Any suggestions for a better replacement would be greatly appreciated.

I've been using Kimber PBJ and I think Quick 16 may be very similar. I'm sure it would get you up and going without any problems.