Tannoy Lancasters

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Originally Posted by Shuggie

I've learnt a bit recently about aperiodic vents such as those in the Lancasters - they should be resistive, not fully open, so I must try securing some thick felt over the vents. The speakers do sound truly awful with the vents completely open, so I'm hoping that they will behave like much larger cabinets if I get the resistive element right. From what I've read about aperiodic cabinet design, getting the vent right may mean that I could remove a great deal of the internal damping, replacing it with simple felt layers to control the worst internal reflections. Whatever I do, I'm keen not to carry out any surgery on the cabinets, just in case I do decide to move them on!

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Good idea and I hope the 15uF and 1uF capacitor will fit in the Tannoy crossover box because I would like to use the original one but to upgrade/replace the old components. I am also thinking about placing the crossover closer to the selectors because at the moment the speaker terminals are situated on the bottom of the back cover together with the crossover (which is not placed in a brown box, but in a grey). The speaker terminals are connected to the crossover with a black wire. From the crossover a rather thick white cable goes to the rotary selectors. There is another black cable that goes to the speakers. Both black cables enter/exit the crossover box on the same side.

Your plan with the Lancaster cabinets are very interesting. Is that something similar to the method what is used with the Goodmans Axiom speakers? They use some kind of special grill at the "reflex" port.

Maybe you could also try with a sponge instead of the felt material.

May I ask why do you want to stick to the Lancaster cabinets and why aren't you interested in other cabinet designs, like Lockwood Major?

Please keep us updated.

Thanks,

I am interested in other cabinet designs, including the Lockwoods, but the Lancasters are such a handy size that it seems sensible to give them their best chance to perform. My home is not large, so much bigger enclosures are not a good idea.

Regarding the crossovers, I'm not touching the Tannoy original crossovers at all - these will remain in place inside their boxes, but not connected in any way. I will have to fit some decent 4mm binding posts at the rear of each speaker, but these will just feed the completely new crossovers, which are to be built up on small plywood boards, and connected to the Monitor Gold drive units using original Tannoy 4 pin connectors (procured from eBay).

I have hopes that the Lancasters can do much better with only modest expenditure. If they don't, I will have an almost original pair of speakers in pretty much mint condition to move on.

The Tannoys in Lancs I believe can be improved no end. One thing I would do though is to ditch the original 4 pin connector.. hard wire to the driver. Doing that is totally reversible if you indeed want to sell on the speakers.

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Originally Posted by The Black Adder

The Tannoys in Lancs I believe can be improved no end. One thing I would do though is to ditch the original 4 pin connector.. hard wire to the driver. Doing that is totally reversible if you indeed want to sell on the speakers.

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I agree - using the 4 pin connectors is a temporary convenience measure while I'm fiddling around with the crossovers. I suspect that the tweeter cabling is pretty ropey, which is another reason for hard wiring direct to the drivers.

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Originally Posted by Shuggie

I agree - using the 4 pin connectors is a temporary convenience measure while I'm fiddling around with the crossovers. I suspect that the tweeter cabling is pretty ropey, which is another reason for hard wiring direct to the drivers.

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I was also thinking to hardwire the speakers to the crossovers but I am a bit afraid and confused about doing this, especially the tweeter, because I think their connection points are more sensitive and I am afriad to solder them.
If you say it is not a problem to desolder the old wires and to solder in new ones I think I might give it a try and solder in a good qaulity wire. Since we are talking about couple centimeres length, I would even buy a Kondo wire for it.

Or do you suggest to directly connect the tweeter part to the new crossover and totally leave out the 4 pin connector? I was planning to clean the connector. It is very comfortable and maybe I could modify them to use silver pins in it.
What or which type and brand of wire would you recommend for the tweeter and which for the woofer part?

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Shuggie

I am interested in other cabinet designs, including the Lockwoods, but the Lancasters are such a handy size that it seems sensible to give them their best chance to perform. My home is not large, so much bigger enclosures are not a good idea.

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Do you have any information or plan for the Lockwood Major cabinets?
If you do have, please send me PM.

Thanks and regards,

As it happens, I may be able to measure a Lockwood Major cabinet, so please wait out for the moment.

Regarding speaker wiring, I am using Audio Note AN-D internal speaker cable, which is a relatively cheap, good quality copper cable. I shall use it on both woofer and tweeter, initially using the 4-pin plug, but when I'm happy with the crossover circuit, I'll solder the wires directly to the terminals on the drive unit.

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Originally Posted by Shuggie

As it happens, I may be able to measure a Lockwood Major cabinet, so please wait out for the moment.

Regarding speaker wiring, I am using Audio Note AN-D internal speaker cable, which is a relatively cheap, good quality copper cable. I shall use it on both woofer and tweeter, initially using the 4-pin plug, but when I'm happy with the crossover circuit, I'll solder the wires directly to the terminals on the drive unit.

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I would be interested in the dims of a lockwood as well :)

Copper is the way forward, don't go for silver

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Originally Posted by Jonboy

I would be interested in the dims of a lockwood as well :)

Copper is the way forward, don't go for silver

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I am trying to find them for you. don't hold your breath though as Lockwood do not have the plans they have told me. :)

+1 for the Lockwood plans if thats ok.