I would always replace old and suspect components with new ones of the same value; not necessarily 'boutique' components, but at least ones with a reasonably tight tolerance.
Printable View
I would always replace old and suspect components with new ones of the same value; not necessarily 'boutique' components, but at least ones with a reasonably tight tolerance.
15uF will be fine and within tolerance.
Hi Hugo.
I have a great tip for you. I've just got my something solid stands today and the sound is different again. I had them made for a decent price too. They fit and suit the lancasters like a glove.
You have to remove the small 5cm plinth bit it's well worth it. I ordered them from Deco Audio, great to deal with.
The sound is now more open since the center of the speaker is now at ear level. The bass is much more rock solid, although it was pretty good before.
I totally recommend these stands. I'll get some pics together when I have time too.
Cheers
Joe
I bought a 15uF and 1uF to go in parallel. They are not bypasses, but this is something that I may look at, once I'm happy with the overall crossover configuration.
I'm not going to lavish a great deal of money on these Lancaster cabinets; however I will get some elegant little tripod stands made up from strong ply. The Stillpoints Component stands don't really lift the Lancasters up enough, but it's clear that being off the floor does help. I will incorporate some OEM Stillpoints feet into the tripod stands.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Black Adder
I've learnt a bit recently about aperiodic vents such as those in the Lancasters - they should be resistive, not fully open, so I must try securing some thick felt over the vents. The speakers do sound truly awful with the vents completely open, so I'm hoping that they will behave like much larger cabinets if I get the resistive element right. From what I've read about aperiodic cabinet design, getting the vent right may mean that I could remove a great deal of the internal damping, replacing it with simple felt layers to control the worst internal reflections. Whatever I do, I'm keen not to carry out any surgery on the cabinets, just in case I do decide to move them on!
I would be very interested in hearing what you come up with. It makes sense that they should be resistive with the early cabs with 15" drivers as they were not ported (or shut off) and so could be a very good experiment to try a resistive baffle of some kind.
The stands cost me Ł250.. not a lot to throw at these superb speakers!
What I'm finding with mine is that the bass is making the front cloth vibrate... lol...