Which implementation of the passive mod did you carry out? There are several versions that do the same job. A couple of pictures might be most helpful.
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Which implementation of the passive mod did you carry out? There are several versions that do the same job. A couple of pictures might be most helpful.
Can anyone tell me what this mod does to the standard 7510 with PCM 1716 chip?
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...510wiremod.jpg
Try it and see :eyebrows:.
I thought I had an updated picture that showed the soldering away from the DAC chip pins. It's best not to solder the wire directly to the DAC pin. If I can't find my other picture, Use a multi meter to trace a better spot from the wire on pin 15 of the PCM1716.
I did the mod from the post 1 of this thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyB
Shall I send photos too?
Regards
I can't see any reason why the sound should be dead if you reversed the mod. Was the DAC unplugged from the mains when you were working on it?
Hi,Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyB
Yes, I also can not see the reason for DAC not working after reversing the mod.
DAC was definitely unplugged from the mains when working with it.
The DAC lights come on, and work fine, as well as tiny popping noises when switching inputs (when volume is at max).
Are ALL the pins on the daughter board/audioboard inserted into all the socket holes?
TBH it would have been easier for you to try inserting the caps into the dacs onboard sockets (post 117) http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...t=6910&page=12 when trying the passive mod, I'd then do the cutting sockets etc if you wanted to keep this mod permanent
What are the daughter/audioboard pins? Is the daughter board one where the opamps are placed?Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
I just realised that would be definitely easier if I have read post 117 earlier and tried passive mode that way.
With passive mod from post 117, do you need to cut RCA connectors?
But the main problem remains, there is no sound:scratch: coming out of Beresford :(
Only the blue lights and popping noise when switching the inputs (at max volume only).
Could it be that main DAC chip can not stand the hot temperatures from soldering iron (it wasn't touched by iron, it was in close proximity).
Any help, please?
The audioboard is the credit card sized pcb containing the op-amps etc seen in this first pic http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3058 , its plugged into a multi pin plug/socket. Its just an idea to be sure its plugged in properly elliminating the possibility its been knocked loose when you was trying the mods.Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboCopper
If you did the passive mod correctly the dac should work so we'll need to see some detailed pics to help us diagnose your problem, it could be a number of things causing it.
Are you sure you didn't short any of the signal tracks out when doing the mod ?
I checked the audioboard with opamps and it seems to be correctly fitted. Pictures will follow tomorrow at the daylight for better quality :)Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
I think I did not short any of the signal tracks.
If I short two signal track where I was soldering, there wouldn't be no sound coming through, would it?
But at the highest volume I can hear slight popping noise when switching inputs, especially from USB to coax1.
Is the chip DAC to blame? I guess that signal goes from digital inputs to DAC chip, thank via those cables to other front bigger board, than to opamp audio board, than back to front bigger board and back to rear board and then to RCA outputs?