Not to mention Jimmy taught the guys who went on to form Wolfson...
Tis true..
Top quality, deal with confidence and a genuine nice bloke to boot.
Printable View
Not to mention Jimmy taught the guys who went on to form Wolfson...
Tis true..
Top quality, deal with confidence and a genuine nice bloke to boot.
Jimmy offered to come to my house in Ormskirk to teach me how to solder and he lives in Scotland! :)
Does anyone have the Elna Part numbers for the non-polarized caps that need to be replaced?
Searching high and low, I can't seem to find them.....
All I see is that they are polarized:
http://www.elna.co.jp/en/capacitor/a.../pdf/rfs_e.pdf
The grey coupling caps are Rubycon Nonpolar, as far as I can see they are now discontinued, somebody may have spares.
One of the members (MartinT) used these Nichicons as an alternative and reported good results http://www.hificollective.co.uk/comp...chicon_es.html
Awesome, thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
These are 4.7uf caps, correct? I am not home right now, I'd like to order them if someone can confirm please?
They are 47uF
Thank you sir.Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyB
As I live in the states Stan, do you ship abroad? I would like to order the Caiman PS since I have the Murata Powe regs in transit.
Looks like I have everything I need except for the part number on the Wima Cap mentioned in one of the many bookmarked threads I now have!
Does anyone know the particular Wima series called out here?
http://www.beresford.me/Downloads/Mod21pt2.pdf
I am assuming it's an FKP2 series:
http://www.wima.com/EN/WIMA_FKP_2.pdf
Good Morning......
Can anyone help me out with this Wima Cap please? It's the last piece of the puzzle for me.
Thanks
Here ya go: LINK :)Quote:
Originally Posted by fmzip
Thank you for the fastest reply ever! :)
No probs.Quote:
Originally Posted by fmzip
If you're talking about the little red caps for the headphone stage that Stan said helped some high end headphones, then the ones I linked to should be correct. I had the link saved from when I did a group buy and I triple checked that I was ordering the right things back then. :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy
Yes, you are correct! Thanks again
Fran - as you live much closer to Parts Connexion in Canada, I suggest you get the Nichicons from them. It was me who used them and they're very good.Quote:
Originally Posted by fmzip
Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Thanks for the tip Martin. I already have the Nichicon caps you suggested coming in as samples from another supplier :)
Step 1 has been completed!
Have to say, the Wolfson DAC makes a HUGE difference all on its own in my otherwise unmodified TC-7520!
There have been a lot of request for a mod to change the default input selection on the TC-7520 and Caiman. The following mod works on all my DACs. I used a Caiman PCB as reference, but the layout of the area is the same for the Caiman etc.
So let's start :).
First unscrew the USB PCB. It's two screws at the back of the case.
http://www.homehifi.co.uk/images/mods/IS/1.jpg
Next, look for C13 in the top righthand corner and just underneath the USB PCB.
http://www.homehifi.co.uk/images/mods/IS/2.jpg
Desolder C13.
http://www.homehifi.co.uk/images/mods/IS/3.jpg
Get hold of a 100nF ceramic cap of say 63V. It has to be a small cap!!! If it is bigger than the one in the picture, don't fit it.
http://www.homehifi.co.uk/images/mods/IS/4.jpg
If you want the TOSLINK input as default, fit the new cap in the position indicated. Press the cap down as far as you can, but make sure it does not touch anything other than the two soldering contact point at its end.
http://www.homehifi.co.uk/images/mods/IS/5.jpg
Confirm that it is not touching anything by using a small screwdriver or a needle. Run the needle along the bottom of the leads and the cap to make sure you are not getting any resistance from where the cap might be touching something.
http://www.homehifi.co.uk/images/mods/IS/6.jpg
If you want the Coax to be the default input instead, fit the cap as in the following picture.
http://www.homehifi.co.uk/images/mods/IS/7.jpg
Screw the USB PCB back in and hold it sideways to double check that the cap is not touching anything. By all means use some sort of insulation to keep the cap clear from anything else.
Sorry about the poor picture. The auto focus is focusing on the wrong part of the PCB. I shall try to retake that shot.
http://www.homehifi.co.uk/images/mods/IS/8.jpg
Awesome, thanks Stan! :cool:
Awesome Stan....
I think I will pass on this one. I had a hard enough time swapping through hole capacitors!
Just adding a few links to various posts which may be helpful, I'm adding the links to the first post (bottom of post) so their easy to find.
If theres anything I've missed you think is worth adding to the links let us know :)
What about this one LEo or is this for just the Caiman?
http://www.homehifi.co.uk/images/mods/caiman/bypass.jpg
I'll add that one too thanks if I can find Stans post with the details , I think it maybe worth adding Caiman mods too :)
Here is the link
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...t=4580&page=49
Thanks Fran, its now added ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by fmzip
Where are you adding these Leo? Link please? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
Go to the first post in this thread, Fran.
Anybody wants anything else adding or changing etc , just let us know, the idea is to make things as easy as possible for folks if they fancy fiddling :)Quote:
Originally Posted by fmzip
Definitely a very good post Leo. I think it may be a good idea to list the manufacturer part numbers for each mod. Took me some time to track down the Wima Cap, the Nichicon Muse Caps and the Elna's as well.
Nichicon Muse Caps
UES1C470MPM
Elna Caps
RFS-25v221 2pcs
RFS-16V101 1pc
RFS-16V100 8pcs
Wima Cap
MKS20-.068/63/10
Thanks ! their now addedQuote:
Originally Posted by fmzip
Link for the alternative Dexa regulators which I am running:
http://www.newclassd.com/index.php?page=34
And the links for the Murata Regulators, 7805SR-C & 7812SR-C:
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/159...-7805sr-c.html
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...words=7812sr-c
Thanks guys, now updated :)
I've been fiddling with my 7520, upgraded all the caps, DAC, power regs etc. Unfortunately I ran into a snag, if I press any coax input, all the leds go on. If I press the USB switch, all the LEDS go off.
Does anyone have a schematic for this unit ? I sent an email to Stan, waiting on a reply.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Fran
Are you still using the original 12V power supply? If so you either need to contact Stan to buy a Caiman 15V PSU or possibly source a linear one your self like some of us have done.
I suspect you're still using the 12V supply as I accidentaly used my 12V supply recently and ran into the same problem. I thought I'd knackered my DAC but it just wasn't getting enough juice to make the 12V reg work properly. The 12V Murata reg needs at least 13V to work peoperly.
I hope that helps. :)
I have a 18V supply running at 15.65 volts. It worked perfectly for a few minutes, then I started tinkering. :( I touched up all my ugly solder joints with my new Weller iron and now I have the problem.
Really stumped here without a schematic. I am hoping it is my ribbon cable that connects the two boards together, one basically broke completely apart. Not sure if this is the problem or is now the problem as I've been handling the boards over and over looking for the issue. I will be removing both cables and soldering wire point to point, keeping my fingers crossed that this is the problem.
Being in the states, it's not simple to send it in for repair. Plus, I wouldn't want anyone to see my poor soldering skills ;)
I was going to suggest that you look at the ribbon cables but you've got there first. It shouldn't be too difficult to replace them with individual solid core wires if need be.
Would stranded 24 gauge be OK?
Hmm, the Americans remain ever imperial in their measurements! I don't know what that is but would be tempted to get hold of some solid core as it is so much easier to solder to a PCB.Quote:
Originally Posted by fmzip
24 "gauge" lol......
I still don't know my metric conversions yet! :)
Good news, switching problem is resolved!
Bad news, I have no audio out of the right channel. Swapped op amps, same issue. Pressing on EC7 and EC9 brings the audio back. Replacing with new caps into those two locations, same result. Replaced both Wima caps, same issue.
I cooked something, the DAC chip get very hot very fast. Schematics please, I am begging. :(
I'm so bummed out. Final steps, the very last mod, and now its dead.
I don't beleave stan has officially made any schematics available and I doubt he'd like people posting them unofficially.Quote:
Originally Posted by fmzip
If the DAC chip is getting hot during normal use then it sounds like you've shorted something. The first place I'd check would be TC2 and C2 just to the right of the DAC chip. As the new TC2 replacement is bigger than the one it replaced it can get very close to C2. Make sure they're not shorting on each other. Also make sure all the new polarised electrolytic caps are installed with the correct polarity. Look for the tiny + symbols on the PCB and make sure the verticle white stripe on the new caps is on the oposite side. If you manage to find a wiring fault then you may have cooked the DAC chip, so you may have the replace that as well.
Also make sure you have the power regs the right way round. The white sticker should be facing the rear of the chassis. Also make sure you don't have any blobs of solder kicking around the board. Those beggers get everywhere during de-soldering.
I hope that helps. :)
Another place to check is EC15 and EC16. They're under the opamp board. Make sure the bottom of the opamp board isn't shorting on the top of these caps. A little insulating tape will do the trick. It's a good idea to do this anyway although I beleave later revisions have shorter caps.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Stan did reply indicating that the schematics are proprietary which was disappointing but understandable. I was under the assumption that this information was available with all the modding going on. I probably should have asked this question before I started modifying it. It is quite interesting how some companies hold everything close to the vest and others do not. For example about a month ago I requested a schematic from Rotel, and they sent me one after I provided them my serial number. With most of the electronics on the market, there really is nothing secretive inside of them.
I spent about 7 hours checking everything out. The new regulators are installed correctly as it worked for a period of time. The polarity of the caps are also correct.
Interesting point regarding the tape. I removed that in order to try to get the cover back on. The cover has been off since the beginning as it will still not fit with the Nichicon Muse caps installed on the op amp board. I believe the caps you are referring to "TC2 " just to the right of the DAC chip may have hit the leads of the DAC. Or, my ribbon cable breaking may have caused the short elsewhere.....
I am going to order a Caiman from Stan and he said he would sell me a new board as well for my TC-7520. What I will likely do is start all over with the TC-7520 mods and leave the Caiman as is. This way I will never be at a loss for sound :)
Puzzling. Mine fit ok, certainly without fouling the lid. Are yours the green MUSE caps or another type?Quote:
Originally Posted by fmzip
green ones.......they are a smidgen too tall
Leo, could you please tell me the value of the 1/2W resistor directly behind RCA1 please.
If you could, I will be able to have some music once again! :)
Thanks