Me and the 1210 are gunna have us some me time....

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Originally Posted by Mains Cables R Us

up-grades need to be done one at a time to gauge the improvements (if any) IMHO

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You're right on the button with that one David, plain common sense but something I disregard infrequently through just wanting to get the equipment up and running. A long time ago, when I was really into fidling and twiddyling I use to go back an undo an upgrade to see if performance fell, sometimes it did and at other times it made no difference.... even tried the cheaper end of Peter Belt stuff and still come across the odd sticky when a box comes out, nowadays I'm more questioning and more idle :eyebrows:

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Originally Posted by JazzBones

Hi Andrew, I too use the Timestep HE power supply for my 1210, MN bearing, copper platter so will be interested in your findings. As to grounding the HE PSU I followed the recommendation on this forum and attached the TS HE earth tag to the OV bottom left of the printed circuit board, I can't say I heard any difference having frist attached as per instruction sheet, maybe its me but bottom left is a better earthing connection. J7 of Audio Origami rewired my Linn Ekos for me plus damping etc. I did not get on with the Kondo cartridge tags, very fragile, so I had Johnny put the Clearaudio tags on instead. I used a TS anti resonator between my AT OC9II cartridge and the Ekos headshell but it seems to suck the life out of music playback so its coming out and I will go back to common practice of mating only cartridge to headshell, no resonator in between :( One has to try and experiment :).

I'm waiting for the performance trial between the Timestep HE PSU and the Paul Hynes SR5 that Martin T and Marco use only out of curiosity as I've gone as far with my 1210 as I want to go for the time being... there are certain aspects of my Linn LP12, cirkus, modded subschassis that I miss such as the timber of wood bodied instruments, viz: cello, violin, double bass, conga drums, flutes, Bosendorfer grand pianos, etc., which I enjoyed more from my LP12, however, as stated I have to refit the cartridge being used on my 1210 first and see if I feel the same way, a pesky job switching cartridges etc, no wonder people just go with computer downloads and cd?

Ron

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Ron,

Thanks for your comments! I must admit that i have not tried anything between the cartridge head but thanks for the tip. I'm also awaiting the difference betwen the two powerpacks as this could be where i'm going next but I have so many upgrades planned that's its a matter of just holding ones horses and seeing what happens when you add a few tweaks. My SME V has been gone now for 2 days and should be back in about a week. I've just recieved my pro version of Adjust+, this can do all sorts of weird and wonderful things like measure speed stability, measure the resonance of your tonearm, it sounds like a great piece of kit but I'm gonna need a weekend!

I had a very highend LP12 (still got but its a bit stripped at the moment!), I love music to be forsenic in nature and the LP12 just added a little too much of its own character for my liking. I'm trying to get my 1210 like a pathologists morgue (bloody clinical :lol:). I cant say that changing the earth tag made any difference but it was a simple 10 minute mod and I feel better for doing it. I think ever little can help and so long as dosen't harm its all good! Well I'm hoping to get the deck fully setup in the next 2 weeks but the homebrew cabling may take a little while longer depending upon suppliers and how I want to design it!! :cool:

Hi again Andrew, the experiments are still with me. I've dug out of the garage a small sheet of lead, approx 2mm thick and I am going to make a mat sandwich with this between the stock 1210 platter and my copper mat/Achro. This I feel will first of all negate any stock platter ringing plus adding more weight to the overall platter as a whole, my MN bearing and TS HE PSU can cope with the extra weight. The lead sheet I will use weighs about the same as the copper mat. The experiment is easily reversable :)

If the above works then out will come my newly purchased jar of petroleum jelly (jelo ;) )/Vaseline to make a better bond... a Mike New idea.

As my moniker implies I am a keen enthusiast of Jazz, not the way out stuff or the plinky plonky variety and because I have used my LP12 for far longer, to me it has the edge when playing jazz for me at the moment. It will take alot for me to ditch my LP12... the Linn does need precise set up from time to time, nothing like what is said, and I have the ability and tools to do this, as a consequence my Linn is on song for me. However, my Tekko is a very good performer as well, just different and its difference I like from time to time. As I have said before if we were all the same with the same likes and dislikes then forums like this would only go so far before they disappeared.
Keep us informed how you are getting on?

Ron :)

Ron,

Some pretty cool comments:) Nice to hear that your experimenting with the lead and stock platter. The MN bearing will easily cope with a little extra lead on your stock platter. I just did a little experiment for you.The MN platter weighs in at about 14 pounds if you have the copper version like I have. So you could go a lot thicker than your 2mm. Incidently I use an old garrard 301 mat and I've found this works quite well in dampening a stock platter, might be cheaper than an achromat??

I think this weekend will be taken up pattern cutting the sorbothane bath, this will be used to try and dampen vibration to the 1210's PCB I got this idea when I tried out a £3k top end NAIM phonostage except the PCB is mounted on springs to stop vibration getting to the PCB, well i've got shed loads of sorbothane so thats my version. I'll probably start getting the cabling designed soon. I have been speaking to some supplier who can cut sorbothane down to about 0.5mm thickness, this will be used as an extrinsic dampener to my silver cabling, I'm now looking for a process to stop the silver from oxidising (sic).

Hey Andrew, thats very interesting what you've planned with the sorbathane damping. I use an Audioquest sorbathane diam 2.5" x .75" round disc on a slate coaster on the outside and under the bearing housing to (hopefully) dampen vibration and support the deck on five points, the four normal Isonoe corners plus the one I have just mentioned. The whole sheabang sits on a Townshend Siesmic sink (bellows & spring). Supporting the PCB boards is an interesting possibility. As to the thicker lead sheet I did try various builder's merchants but they only sold it on a whole reel costing circa £80.00! So I'm just using what I have for experimental purposes the only cost is my hobby time. If the lead damping mat bonded to the stock platter works then maybe (?) there will not be a need to go for the MN platter which visually leaves me wanting something that looks better and not having the internal wiring showing as per some of Martin T's pictures....sorry Martin :( , besides I'm rather fond of the Tekko outer strobe platter as it is a reminder of the Technics 1200/10 itself and a constant visual check to see if the deck is operating at constant correct speed

The work for us continues :rolleyes:

Ron :lol:

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Originally Posted by JazzBones

there will not be a need to go for the MN platter which visually leaves me wanting something that looks better and not having the internal wiring showing as per some of Martin T's pictures....sorry Martin

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Just to put this into perspective, those wires only show under flash photography. In normal use, I am never aware of seeing them. Secondly, my platter is a prototype and I believe Mike puts more of a lip on the production ones.

I use silver mains cables and work fine with my system They have a huge effect on my balanced mains and power amp and quite a big effect on my copper DAC/PRE
I think like everything else with cables the quality of the materials and how well its constructed makes a huge difference. These cables replaced thoses huge cables PS Audio used to make. I had quite a few other cables through my time, the best thing I can say is that I no longer play around with cables I just do not feel the need for that

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Originally Posted by MartinT

Just to put this into perspective, those wires only show under flash photography. In normal use, I am never aware of seeing them. Secondly, my platter is a prototype and I believe Mike puts more of a lip on the production ones.

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Yep, I can confirm that i have a production version, theres is indeed more of a lip on the outer perimeter of the platter and you cant see any wires.

No wires visible here with my MN platter :)

Remember that Martin has the base plate fitted, which raises the platter up quite a bit, so that's the reason why you can see the wires inside the deck.

Andrew's got this too, but his is new platter with a deeper 'skirt', which covers the internal wires.

Ron, by all means 'fettle' the stock Techy platter any way you wish, and I hope you get the upgrade you're looking for, but don't rule out the MN platter because you don't like the idea of wires showing, because it's simply a non-issue either way (base plate fitted or not) with one of Mike's current designs :cool:

Marco.

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Originally Posted by Marco

Don't rule out the MN platter because you don't like the idea of wires showing, because it's simply a non-issue either way (base plate fitted or not) with one of Mike's current designs :cool:

Marco.

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Ron,

I love the ideas of what your doing with your platter, just like me, a complete tweaking nut (maybe??) :). But on a more serious note (bad pun!!), i think marco does have a point. I'm currently spinning a stock platter and I have noticed a MASSIVE difference in things like microdynamics and details, size of soundstage, bass not as powerful, intimate vocal not as intimate the list goes on.................. The 1210 still sounds great but not GREAT if that makes sense. Anyway, am off now to start cutting the sorbothane bath!!