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Started on driver two this morning.
After insoldering the tweeter connection and unbolting the connector block and the rear cone spider. The point of no return arrives again, slicing the old surround so the cone can come out.
http://i47.tinypic.com/1fk9y9.jpg
The loose cone!
http://i46.tinypic.com/2dmflok.jpg
Now I've got to spend a few patient hours stripping off the gooey remains of the old surround which even extends under the ends of the Girdacoustic cone bracing ribs.
As you can see, the remains of the old cone surround are just a sticky mess!
http://i48.tinypic.com/illqtx.jpg
Finally got the second cone clean, it took literally hours to scrape the surround remains off. No wonder Lockwood only do whole cone replacements these days.
Sorry about the photo quality, must have forgotten the camera's 'macro' setting!
http://i46.tinypic.com/9bd3m1.jpg
I've put the new surround in place, looks good, properly tucked under the bracing rib ends prior to gluing. That's the next job, I'll first bond the surround to the rib ends, that way its fixed in the correct postion for the rest of the gluing. Its how I did the first one and that was fine. I'm using 'Aleene's Original Tacky Glue', as many do. I apply it with a small art brush with the bristles cut down a bit.
http://i46.tinypic.com/6rsow5.jpg
And yes the surround is the right way up, its just the flash makes look wrong.
Later:
http://i46.tinypic.com/2911dtt.jpg
Surround glued to Girdacoustic rib ends, it'll have to dry overnight!
I've kept the cone face down as that pushes the surround upwards onto the ribs ensuring contact is maintained while it dries.
By the way, once its been drying for about an hour, turn the cone over and check that the crease on the surround lines up exactly with the cone edge, pull it into place if need be as the glue will still have movement in it, then press into place firmly.
Great work man... Hope you get em kicking out the jams soon.
I do love a good clean-up.
At last, the bonding of the new cone surround for the second driver is finished.
http://i46.tinypic.com/dh99x.jpg
http://i45.tinypic.com/vinn0h.jpg
I've just cleaned a bit of minor surface corrosion off the inside of the tweeter horn throat and wiped the surface with clear acrylic laquer to prevent recurrence, just as I had to with the first driver (photos were shown previously).
The repaired cone will be refitted later today and I'll describe the process and perhaps add more photos. With a bit of luck I may have both speakers up and running this evening.
(By the way that smear of glue on the right side is not from clumsy work on my part. Its residue from the original manufacturers gluing, I left it on as it does no harm and I did not want to scrape at the cone material.)
Very prompt looking work. Well done!
Just about to do another hour or two on the Cheviots. I'm mulling over a few ideas for using a dope coating on the foam surrounds, to give them that authentic Tannoy 'tacky' look.
Any sensible suggestions would be welcome.
Re-locating the rear cone spider and inserting screws.
There is about 1.5mm movement from side to side due to the slightly oversize screw holes. Move the spider from side to side until you feel it is approximately central, then finger tighten the screws, you can fine adjust later.
http://i47.tinypic.com/2r7llx0.jpg
As shown below, you can shine a torch through the mesh cap and see whether the coil former has an even gap around the pole piece/horn (picture's not that clear I know).
http://i45.tinypic.com/ma83n7.jpg
Note the tweeter wire goes into the recess behind the connector block. Don't overtighten the screw as the plastic may split.
http://i45.tinypic.com/1zpmmue.jpg
Glue the surround in four smallish places to start with using a good contact adhesive as it needs to grip fast due to the surround tension pulling. Gluing in four spots like this makes it far easier to bond the remaining surround as you won't have to pull it in place all the time.
http://i47.tinypic.com/2ahxz4m.jpg
Blutak blobs used to keep the glued surfaces apart until they are dry enough to push together.
http://i49.tinypic.com/25gfhbc.jpg
This morning (Sunday).
Previously, using contact adhesive, I'd bonded the surround in four small areas to get the correct alignment. Now the rest of the surround can be glued in place. The blu-tak and cocktail sticks are keeping the two glued surfaces apart until they are dry enough to press together.
http://i46.tinypic.com/1zcluol.jpg
The surround is now bonded in place and the cone moves back and forth freely (after a slight re-tweek of the rear spider).
http://i47.tinypic.com/2dselqs.jpg
Next jobs: clean up the circular trim strip and refix, reconnect the tweeter and mount the driver back in the cabinet and test it.
In case anybody is wondering, the camera I'm using is my ancient FujiFilm Finepix S5000, set on a mere 1mp to keep the file sizes down.