At last. Finished GL75 platter. Two more coats of colour and a clear lacquer finish.
http://i65.tinypic.com/289esth.jpg
It'll be left to harden for a few days.
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At last. Finished GL75 platter. Two more coats of colour and a clear lacquer finish.
http://i65.tinypic.com/289esth.jpg
It'll be left to harden for a few days.
Looks fine Geoff. Nice job. Looking forward to the plinth.
Clean, service and refit of mechanical TT bits next and a couple of tweaks to the arm mounting. Could take a week or so. I'll need to be very careful not to mark the new paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by struth
I'm toying with making a brass thrust pad for the ball under the main bearing spindle to bear against. Many Lenco main bearings seem to lose the polythene end caps and end up leaking lubricant. I've found a batch of caps that fit better than the originals. Might pass a few on if there's interest.
The plinth design is in my head at the moment. I've got it worked out though. I'll have to make up a template for necessary cut-outs. I dare say there are templates online, but if I do it myself, I'll know it's right.
One filthy GL75 motor:
http://i68.tinypic.com/aw3lhs.jpg
One clean GL75 motor.
http://i63.tinypic.com/adiy3b.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/ips4rm.jpg
Just a the minimum of meths and a fine Scotchbrite pad and stiff art brush and job's done.
The back of the motor casing is loose, quite common, screws need securing. The tapered spindle has come up clean, but I'll give it a fine rub down in a while. Bearings seem very good and will just be relubed.
GL75 motor. Oily bits.
Nose bearing: Slacken end nut. Remove thrust screw & nut. Remove circlip. Shake out bearing assembly & spring. Clean, regrease, reassemble with drop of oil on spindle at bearing. Rear bearing: Unscrew terminal block. Unscrew steel cover plate and remove Nylatron plate and bearing assembly. Clean, regrease, oil spindle at bearing, grease adjuster screw tip and reassemble. Adjust end play and lock the nut.
http://i67.tinypic.com/28ssfag.jpg http://i64.tinypic.com/30w1f6o.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/97sk8l.jpg http://i64.tinypic.com/2h33l7c.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/723amt.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/hrlyxe.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/2zqsbxh.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/7257qf.jpg
Completed motor. Shaft endplay is exactly right, spindle taper given fine rub down and polish. Tested, nice and quiet and running very smoothly. No more work needed! :)
http://i63.tinypic.com/2usvork.jpg
Main bearing service next.
Quality:)
GL75 main bearing. Stripped, cleaned and relubed. Quick easy job really, as long as you've got a pair of circlip pliers.
Before:
http://i63.tinypic.com/2hg4dxz.jpg
In bits:
http://i63.tinypic.com/wrm9t2.jpg
After:
http://i65.tinypic.com/9hlyzo.jpg
This bearing is in very good condition and has no slack. Even the Nylatron thrust pad shows little wear. New felt washer fitted and soaked in oil. The nylon end cap now has a zip tie around it as these are prone to leaking and coming loose and falling off.
Idler wheel assembly next.
I will get a 75 refurbed by u mate:eyebrows:
It's taking me long enough sorting mine out. Mind you, next one'll be quicker! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by struth
A quickie. GL75 idler assembly stripped.
http://i67.tinypic.com/160wsk5.jpg
All cleaned. Given the arm a polish. The rubber bush/grommet at the slider end has been left in situ. Not a good idea to start pulling a fifty year old piece of rubber about I think. It seems perfectly serviceable and is gripping the bronze bearing bush firmly, so I've just cleaned it. The rubber idler rim was cleaned with isopropyl aolchohol/distilled water solution and then bagged to avoid contamination. The wheel bearing seems good and the two thin shim washers are OK, but I'll bung another thin washer behind the inner one to reduce end play.
Assemble and lube tomorrow.
wheel looks new. Going to be a fab deck.. are you intending making it your main one or just occasional?
I think I'm going to be using two TT's Grant. This one with a Decca arm & cart and another with the Mission 774 on for the MCs.Quote:
Originally Posted by struth
Good idea and will save a lot of mucking about. also the 75 should be good with the decca armQuote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Yes. I've come to a halt. I have a bedroom to decorate. Back on target soon. :)
The GL75 saga. Top plate arm mount additional support plate.
The steel top plate is 2mm thick and will be tapped to take M3 bolts, but I felt that a bit of extra thickness of metal for the threads to grip would not hurt, so I fashioned a brass 2mm thick plate for the underside. This will also add stiffness to the area, which can't hurt. I've bonded it in place (last photo) using a very strong acrylic adhesive. It will not come loose. This stuff is stronger than any Super Glue or Epoxy adhesive I've come across. Yes. It is bare metal to bare metal bonded, roughed and degreased first. The 2mm holes through the top plate will be extended through the brass and the drilling will eventually be enlarged to 2.5mm for the 3mm tap. The gap around the edges of the brass is intentional. I intend to use rubber 'U' trim along the bottom of the top plate when it's mounted.
http://i65.tinypic.com/olhcz.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/2cyld2w.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/oa944g.jpg
Next. I'm making up the plinth top template, before starting on plinth construction.
GL75! Here we are. Template for plinth top cutout. Doesn't look much, but it took a few hours of checking and double checking. May need a tweak to clear the motor yet.
http://i68.tinypic.com/23uygdw.jpg
I have a brand new clear lid that is larger than the TT top plate, allowing for arm overhang at the right rear. The plinth top will be slightly larger than the dimensions the lid covers. Got to work out the layout for that lot next.
Aha. I was right. The front bearing housing end of the motor needed a bit of space. A bit difficult to tell without a motor installed. Done now!
http://i63.tinypic.com/10wqnhg.jpg
Pictures are not the sharpest because I've cut resolution to save upload time (and it's an old camera).
lovely work geoff!
GL75 project largely on hold for a short while. I'm waiting for an acrylic lid to arrive before I finalise the plinth dimensions. I may make the mounting plate up for the Decca arm. Got to work out how and where to situate the armrest and arm lifter, as I don't want these directly mounted on the top plate. I'm thinking of having them on a brass extension bolted to the arm mounting plate. Ideas! Ideas! Never mind, it will all come together.
Oh dear. I seem to have been naughty again. Just bought another Decca Mk.III 'Elliptical'.
That's two I have now. For use in FFSS arm on the custom GL75, once it's finished.
http://i64.tinypic.com/wvb8qt.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/2a9w30g.jpg
Nice one Geoff! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Will you be using it in a Decca ffss arm, or use an adaptor and run it in an SME arm (or similar)?
I have one and have been meaning to set it up in my Decca ffss (upgraded to Super status), however I have yet to get an arm board cut for the Thorens 124. Something to do in 2016 methinks.
It will be in an FFSS arm to start with Barry. I may make up a fluid damper to use it with.
I don't have the SME fitting adaptor. I'd like one but people seem to be asking silly money for them these days. I reckon it can't be too hard to make something like that. Maybe with overhang adjustment built in too.
I'm also toying with the idea of making an FFSS head mount arm wand for my Mission 774 arm. That would require extra mass on the counterweight I think.
I didn't know that Decca carts also swear as well :)
S.
Geoff, do your Mission arms have a small counterweight that locks the large weight?Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Haha - "ffss" stands for "Full Frequency Stereo Sound"; a Decca appellation. It replaced "ffrr" - "Full Frequency Range Recording", used before the introduction of stereo.Quote:
Originally Posted by southall-1998
Hi Ali. I take it you mean the accessory add on weight ring that goes round the outside of the main counterweight. No, I don't have one. I'd like one though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali Tait
No, haven't seen one of those. I was under the impression there was a small weight that went behind the main weight to provide fine adjustment a la Tecnoarm stylee.
No matter, I just stuck a 2p piece to the back of my weight.
I could do with another anti skate weight too, mine only came with one.
I see there are aftermarket weights available on the bay, might get one of them.
Now then. Back on track after a pretty long wait trying to find a suitable lid for the Lenco project. Larger examples are not so easy to find. This one will give me about 40mm clearance at the back of the GL75 base plate. That way any arm I fit will have clearance.
http://i68.tinypic.com/r9gy3a.jpg
Now I have this, I can establish the outer dimensions for the plinth, so that the lid is a presentable fit.
Next, set up the table saw in the workshop so I can cut the MDF parts I'll be needing.
I'm hoping to complete this project in the next few weeks.
If it doesnt work out you could use one of the ones Ive got. they are backless so arm size wouldnt be an issue. In the flesh they are nicer than you might think
Dunno. What are they like?
The one ive been using on my decks Geoff. They are better than they maybe look but dont cover everything. just platter and arm, but its a neat solution imo.
Have you got a link Grant, I could do with one like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by struth
Looks interesting Grant.
My mate (who should have joined AOS years ago, if he's reading this :)) has something similar I believe on his Clearaudio Solution.
There's always this, similar to the one Grant displays:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Michell-Engi...-/291481105529
Very impressed by your restoration Geoff :)
Thanks Neil. It has a way to go yet. There have been a few delays, but I think everything is now OK to continue and finish it. I'll be getting stuck in and post some more photos in the next few days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalek Supreme D L
Looks like I'll have edit the current avatar. Just bought this:
http://i66.tinypic.com/25ptvrn.jpg
An ADC 550E from the late sixties!
Nice, Geoff... Is that also a high-comply, low-tracker? The cantilever looks more like it was designed to handle some proper 'man-sized' VTFs! ;)
Marco.
The appearance is deceptive Marco. If I recall, the cantilever is actually only slightly thicker than the slim item on the 10E Mk.IV. I already have an ADC 220 body fitted with a 550 XE stylus that sounds incredibly good. I don't know the exact spec for this slightly older 550E, but expect the compliance to be highish, but not too silly. When it arrives I'll do a summary of my findings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Have you tried any of the old 'brick' type ADCs? A good example can outperform many 'respectable' MCs.
Just bought a pair of these. Sawafuji DP-12 planar dipole speaker drive units.
Their unusual design got the better of my curiosity. What reports I can find, suggest that the sound quality is rather good.
https://translate.google.co.uk/trans...tm&prev=search
http://i64.tinypic.com/2q8y35x.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/2ldq1z.jpg
They date from the eighties and are allegedly full range drivers, but I see these more as extended midrange drivers to be used with a low crossover point, say 200/300 Hz to pair them with bass drivers. Efficiency is I believe fairly low, but I have a pair of bass units that may suit these just fine, along with supertweeters to bolster the extreme top if need be.
look very interesting. never heard of them.. look like a halogen light lol... keep us posted on how they sound Geoff
A thought crossed my mind. They'd make a whopping great set of headphones! :lol:
Those look intriguing Geoff, I guess I wouldn't have been able to pass up on them either.
Interested to know how you get on with them :)
I shall report on their potential once I get them. In my hoard, I have a nice pair of old KLH low resonance and lowish sensitivity bass drivers that may work with these. I'm thinking crossovers with gentle 6 db/oct slopes here, at say 200 Hz (might have to wind my own inductors for that). We'll see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Firebottle
I have, and still possess 2 x ADC25 (with full compliment of stylii) and 2 x ADC 10E Mk. IV. These are keepers along with an AKG P8ES and a slew of B&O MMC designs. (Oh, and of course, a few Deccas as well.)Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Never tried AKGs or B&Os, but there is something very special about the sound of a good ADC. Somebody once said it was an 'elegant' sound. I agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry
Deccas ain't half bad either! :)
Not tried an ADC. they the moving iron ones? Mike has my MC at moment to try; I wonder if he has it mounted yet ;)
Strictly speaking they are induced magnet designs, having both a fixed magnet and coil - but I suppose moving iron is as good a description as any.Quote:
Originally Posted by struth
(Pedant mode switched off)