I live in Australia and checked the shipping, would be over half the cost, so dunno if I`ll bother, know of any similar products which work as well that i'd have better luck getting locally?
Thanks
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I live in Australia and checked the shipping, would be over half the cost, so dunno if I`ll bother, know of any similar products which work as well that i'd have better luck getting locally?
Thanks
I guess I'm stuck with the caps off, then. I am solder/circuit board challenged:)Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
Not a bad place to be, though. The OPA2132 in the line-out and NE5532 in the Headphone socket with MLC5/6 clipped is the most balanced I've had in my system.
CD
Hi, to all community of forum.
I have a couple of questions about 7520' mods.
a) If I replace the BB PCM1716 with the Wolfson 8716, the dac will be capable to play 192KHz sampling flac audio files?
b) the caiman is capable to this?
Sorry for my english...
No, it'll do up to 24/96, the Wolfson chip is rated up to 192k but the input receiver supplying the dac in the Caiman accepts up to 96
Thanks for the info.
Is there any CS8414 equivalent to achieve 192KHz? Like CS8416, BB_PCM1796 or BB_DSD1792?
Theres no pin compatible 192k receiver to the CS8414 (that I know of anyway)
Thanks for the info Leo...
Just I transfered the Wolfson DAC 8716 to my 7520!
Difficult job, but I am very happy for the result.
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1255550769
My modifications to the TC-7510 and TC-7520.
I started with the opamp modification, removed the ceramic feedback capacitors, and so on.. It did improve the sound.
I read about experiments with better capacitors around the opamp. So, when there is a difference between capacitors then no capacitor should be even better. I removed the output capacitor. The output has then a DC voltage level of 5V. I checked the input circuit of my amplifier. It is directly coupled tube input. I took the risk and connected it directly to the output of the opamp. The sound improved a lot!
At the input of the opamp there is still a bad coupling capacitor! According the datasheet of the DAC, it is capable driving the amplifier directly! The only drawback is that you lose gain of 6dB, half the signal level. When that is no problem you can completely remove (skip) the opamp. That is always better then the best opamp!
If you want to play it safe then you only need one good capacitor at the output of the DAC. I have modified the output connectors and connected both, one in front of the capacitor, directly at the output of the DAC, and one after the capacitor. This way I can easily compare them. It is really a lot better without any capacitor!
Finally I replaced the PCM1716 with the WM8716.
http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/7742/p1120734.th.jpg
Hmm, I think so that is something like this (look at posts 1425, 1430 and 1432).
I have the same opinion, about this. :)
What are the characteristics of capacitors?
Be very careful with DC offsets, an amp may have input coupling caps but normally this is after the vol pot, its not recommended to have DC on the carbon tracks
Leo,
there is no DC offset in my solution.
Btw, I would appreciate if you explain me, what is happening here? - Related posts 1425, 1430
Lemon, you may wan to try your tests with only one opamp installed on the line-out side of the 7520. I noticed that with only one opamp, the system is louder and a bit clearer too.Quote:
Originally Posted by lemon
CD
I have modified my TS-7510 and the TS-7520 of a friend of mine. I have used a 1 uF auricap (MKP) and a Audio Note copper foil capacitor (I think it’s like paper in oil, but then more expensive).
These should be one of the best coupling capacitors you can get, but the direct connection (without capacitor) at the output of the DAC is a lot better.
Before this experience, I never thought that you could hear a capacitor. It worries me a bit because there are still some other capacitors in the signal chain (loudspeaker filter).
It is important that you disconnect the opamp circuit in order to reduce the load of the DAC. The input resistance of the opamp circuit is about 4k7 (TS-7510) and that is already the limit of the DAC. I think the load of the DAC should be as low as possible (is high resistance) to minimize distortion.
My amplifier does not have a coupling capacitor. It has a potentiometer directly coupled to the gate of a Tube amplifier (only the first stage is a tube). So, the DC level at the DAC output ( 2.5V) is connected to the gate of the tube. The potentiometer is 100k and has no problem with the DC voltage. The only problem is that the gate cathode voltage is decreased by the input voltage. The same happens with a normal AC coupled input signal so I don’t think it will do any harm. This DC level is (in my case) dependent of the volume level of the potentiometer. So only when you play at maximum level, you have the full 2.5V at the input.
@lemon
Do you mean the phase shift between the two outputs? Normally there should be no phase shift at relative low frequencies. A filter causes a phase shift.
Yes, exactly! There is a phase shift, which starts from 5KHz (little) and rises as the frequency increases (attached is 20).Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulJ
I you compare the sinus btw 5KHz and 20KHz, it appears that the phase shift is for the fixed output (opamps)
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1257529701
Leo, when you have a spare few minutes could you please transfer the latest (appropriate) Caimen mods over to this thread?
Which mods you mean mate? theres the cap changes posted by Stan (those grey ones on the audioboard) please remind me what else there is and I'll add em :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Covenant
From here: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...?t=4580&page=5
onwards but you need to separate power regulation stuff which is only suitable for the Caiman (I think).
Sorry to give you some work Leo.
I have been playing about with the regulator upgrade from the Caiman on the TC-7520. The main issue is that the Murata regulators require some effort in order to get hold of them. Other than that, it works fantastic with the Caiman PSU.Quote:
Originally Posted by Covenant
We need help from someone who can order a batch of the Murata regulators, or we nee dto band together and do a group buy via Mouser in order to reduce their handling and shipping cost.
Hmm interesting-so 7520 owners can take advantage of the Caiman power supply if the Murata's are fitted? I wonder if this might appeal to Tirna as they must know the 7520 well by now-I can think of a few people, including me, who would be happy to get them to do this work
Quote:
Originally Posted by Covenant
I've not tried the Murata regs yet, a few type regs I tried in the Caiman/7520 was discrete including some designed by John Swenson (schematics floating about on the net somewhere) , main reason I didn't post anything was because their not something you can buy off the shelf, I had to build them on matrix boards, their fiddly and a little time consuming doing them like this, a small laid out pcb would be much easier and quicker. building these things yourself is ok but its so easy to make a mistake and end up killing the dac chip or input receiver so I tend to be cautious recommending such mods to a commercial dac, soon as I get hold of some Murata's I'll compare them against the discretes and post results, pics etc. if they prove to perform the same or better than the discrete jobs it makes sense to go with the Murata's tbh rather than waste time and effort building your own
With the diy dacs I usually go mad with the mods etc but with the Caiman I try to keep things a little more simple so it would be easier for more folks to try:)
Heres one of the discretes I tried
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...usoms/reg2.jpg
Before I try the Murata regs can I just establish that I need the new Caiman PSU, not the original, since they require 15V to operate?
Stan - any chance that the new PSUs will be in soon?
Hi Martin, send me an email and I'll sort you out with a payment request.Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Yes, you do need the Caiman PSU in order to get the Murata to work properly. My advise is to also do the audio PCB caps mod I mentioned in another thread. The two complement each other. Leo has been trying the caps mod with his discrete regulators as well. Best ask him what he thinks of it.
Feel free to pass by and listen to mine with the mods through my NS1000M and HD800, before you make the plunge. Bring your own DAC and some test tunes for reference.
Thanks Stan. E-mail sent. I will go ahead and order the components since I am sure it will improve on an already outstanding product.
I'm not sure how many other users are using their Caimans for Sky HD (optical link) but I can tell you that the sound quality on some HD programming is quite superb (David Attenborough's Life is particularly impressive).
Yes, I am Martin - stunning on some of the music programs on BBC HD, and MTV HD is pretty good, too. I gave up on surround years ago - crystal clear stereo is fine even with films I find.Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Even better with the huge soundstage of a good valve amp.
Agreed, Alex, I have no time for surround sound.
Another small update on first page
Happy New Year!
Leo, can you give us more info about changes on this area of PCB?
If I saw well, there is a capacitor missing beetwen tranzistors?
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1262726919...http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1262726924
Anyone to give us the above information?
What is exactly the problem?
Hi Stan,
At the right side on the PCB of Leo a capacitor is missing.
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1262726919
The PCB of Leo
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1262726924
The same area of PCB on 7520
Is it a mod or something else?
Removing the cap with give a slightly warmer sound.
Thanks for the info, Stan.
Its gone a bit quite lately. Any new op-amps you have tried? :scratch:
I had a play with different opamps again recently..
swapped back in the LM4562 to replace the 2132 I had been using?
This is with NO opamp in the headamp circuit mind..
The 4562 was "clearer" but didn't approach the level of foot tapping involvement of the 2132.
its just...better in my system.
That said, isolating the Dacs case from vibration made a BIGGER improvement than swapping over the opamps, so go figure?
I forgot to mention I stuck a piece of aluminised tape to the underside of the 7520 cover. I couldn't tell you if its made any difference as I have done so many minor mods lately.
Ive dampened the inside upper case and the underside of the lower case, makes the Dac feel a lot more heavy and solid.
Also I've blu-taked it to a couple of the wee Tesco granite slabs, which are in turn blu-taked together.
So basically the combined weight of the granite is coupled to the heavier "dead" case of the Dac - which made a good difference in my equipment rack.
Kind of like putting the Dac components in a heavier better damped case maybe?
And Stan says such things wouldn't make a difference... ;)
Marco.
What you need is a lead-lined hardwood box suspended on special hi-tensile wires connected to the ceiling. Not sure if it will make it sound better but would be a talking point when you have the relatives round!
Regards
Chris
Or get some Mana....
but then peole WILL talk about you ;)
Right I am going ahead with the regulator upgrade and will get Tirna to do the capacitor upgrade at the same time.
Could I have your opinion on the most suitable make (and if you dont mind the reference number)?
Thanks! :)
Hi Jerry,
I am a bit confused.
We are all waiting for the Murata super reg bulk order and I thought that you were asking Tirna about their requirements before any order was placed?
If they are not interested we can get on with it as there are at least 4 of us waiting to save on postage and it has been at least two weeks.
Could you please let Dave know what's happening so that he can sort it for the rest of us (very kind man).
Regards
Chris
Adrian at Audio Flair might be willing to do the mods as well.
Hi Chris,
I spoke to Jimmy a few days ago to see if there was any more news about an idea he was thinking about. He hasn't progressed it so I am jumping in with the others on the Stan recommended regs mods. Jimmy is willing to do this mod and has said that he will do the capacitor upgrade whilst he has the case open for a very reasonable £10 (plus cost of capacitors).
Hence me wanting to order the capacitors based on what people recommended.
Sorry to have caused confusion, I think we are getting there!:cool:
Is this the same as the 7520 -> Caiman PSU upgrade discussed in the other thread?Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyB
I have had a word with Tirna Electronics and he'll be doing the regulator mods. After that he'll let me know that the mods are done and that the modded unit will accept the Caiman PSU.
Hi there,
So a while back i did the remove the cap and replace the opamp mod...but i mistakenly removed one of the caps on the headphone side...now i would like to use the headphone amp and need to replace it...could anyone tell me the value of the cap highlighted in this pic?
Thanks in advance...
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4056/...17066724_o.jpg
It's 100pF
Just a quick note: Jimmy at Tirna is nice guy and knows about electronics - IIRC he was a lecturer at Edinburgh University. He's done some work for me in the past which was of very high quality.Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyB