Great speakers, Dan - you'll not go wrong with them! :)
Marco.
Printable View
Great speakers, Dan - you'll not go wrong with them! :)
Marco.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Well Happy. Playing a bit of Charlie Haden & Pat Methany - Beyond The Missouri Sky the scale and depth is superb.
:cool:
Yeah, I got the gist of what you were saying Andy.Quote:
Originally Posted by wiicrackpot
I was just curious to know which Tannoys you'd made the comparison with, as Tannoys are very much my thing and have been since I got interested in Hi-Fi.
I'm not knocking the Ditton 44s, I think they are a pleasant listen, but I was pointing out their limitations, every speaker has them. As you suggest, a pair of decent Tannoys will win out, as they would against most speakers.
Good Geoff, no confusion, apart from tannoy's, have noted through various posts you rate some vintage British speakers like i do and been all ears when you post something on them, :cool: would really like a pair of Tannoy 15'inch Gold's though but it's not gonna happen anytime soon.:(Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Cheers!
The 15" Gold is a lovely unit, however, there are a number of other Tannoy D/C drivers that are capable of superb results. The 15" HPD gives little away to the Gold really and is also capable of spectacular results.Quote:
Originally Posted by wiicrackpot
One Tannoy driver not to be underestimated is the 'little' HPD 295A from the Eaton. I've owned five pairs of these. It may only be a 10" driver, but still packs a wallop and used with good valve amplification it sounds sublime, It's not related to the preceding 10" IIILZ, its actually a ten inch version of the 12" Gold. It does not have the less popular Girdacoustic cone bracing of the larger HPDs, and has a cleaner midrange and also has butyl rubber surrounds that seem to last forever. I've always found it far smoother and cleaner than the 12" HPD and sweeter at the top even than the 12" Gold, which is odd as they all use the same tweeter, but I've done the comparisons. The 295 however, cries out for a bigger cabinet than the Eaton jobbie. I'd love to put a pair in either decent sized transmission line or horn cabinets, that should work beautifully.
Yes, noticed your love for the 295A and have peeked my interest up on it, once i happen on a pair cheap, then i'll strike. ;)
As you have mentioned about it being let down by too small a cabinet,lets twist this a bit, do you think the 295A's go well in Ditton 44 cabs, :eek:
yes i am thinking about gutting my pair and selling my drivers and crossovers and using the cabs to house a pair,
the chances of me sourcing a proper pair of HF2000's are nil, i won't even entertain the stupid prices asked for them.
Well, I'm sure the HPD 295A would work in a cabinet the size of the Ditton 44, but the front baffles are not removable and blanking off the driver holes and re-cutting to suit a ten inch driver sounds like an awful lot of messing about.Quote:
Originally Posted by wiicrackpot
Anyhow, I'm sure there are other tweeters about which would work in the Ditton 44, as long as you have the impedance close (6 ohm) the existing crossover should be OK, you'd need something fairly near in sensitivity, but a db. or so either way is unlikely to hurt.
Check out this HF2000 replacement tweeter:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seas-19TFF...item25750a3122
The HF 2000 is not scarce, although prices are rising. A couple of years ago you'd have got a pair for about £70, but I've seen people asking over £200 lately. I've still got a late mint pair from the Celestion UL10 speakers and I'm rather keen to hang onto them unfortunately.
The Peerless tweeter in the JPW Golds, that can be bought very cheaply, work well in the Ditton 44 as a substitute for the HF2000.
Geoff, reason i am thinking about butchering the 44 cabs is the recess could work, i could turn the cab upside down,Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
the 12'inch hole will definitely have enough clearance for the 295A magnets,
and bang a new baffle on with crosshead screw BBC monitor style, we're away, just a thought mind. :D
Yeah, i have seen those replacements before thanks.
Thanks Alex, 1st i heard Peerless as a possible, TBH the Wharfedale tweeters i have works a treat. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by spendorman
.........or i could use these.
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/145/dscf2953x.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/21/dscf2955t.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/221/dscf2957d.jpg
but i'm reluctant to do so as i am enjoying them so much, absolute belting so they are,
plus i'd rather house some big JBL or Altec's in them if i was to do anything else with them. :rolleyes:
Just had a poke about on eBay. These look close enough to work, 5 ohms impedance and the dimensions are about right, the sensitivity isn't known, but any excess ouput can be trimmed with a cheap L pad. Not to mention they're dirt cheap and being Yamaha they'll probably sound OK. The slight difference in impedance shouldn't matter.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1709629211...84.m1423.l2649
I forget which model but one of the Seas Tweeters we a great replacement.
Oh...those look tasty, i am tempted to try them instead of the real mcCoys or the Seas replacements.Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Geoff linked them on #157.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rare Bird
I guess that the Peerless will be a bit smoother that the Wharefdale tweeter.Quote:
Originally Posted by wiicrackpot
Just measured the hole in my 44's, 100mm outer and 65mm inner holes, probably have to do cosmetic work on the inner hole to pass the Yammy magnets through, bought them anyway thanks Geoff. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Probably Alex, but there wasn't any imbalance and thats what i was happy with, i won't know now as i have committed to another brand. :eyebrows:Quote:
Originally Posted by spendorman
I just looked at eBay and saw they'd gone. Wondered if it was you. Let me know how it works out.Quote:
Originally Posted by wiicrackpot
I don't expect you to have any issues, but just as a precaution, in case there's a problem or mismatch to deal with. I'd suggest trying them wired to the tweeter connection wires, but outside the cabinets before you do any carpentry. You'll still get a fair idea of how the completed installation will sound.
oops! not paying attention :oQuote:
Originally Posted by wiicrackpot
Will do.Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
S'ok, i do that all the time, bloody attention deficit i have.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rare Bird
Got my Yammy tweeters, looks really nice little units, holes have to be widen for magnets and slightly larger baffle diameter has to be covered by a gasket to look right, working till 9pm this week so will tackle it in the weekend. :(
Still running mine.
There is a good thread on the vintage radio forum regarding tweeter replacement, well worth a read if considering :)
http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=55474
Good, long may it continue. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by dantheman91
Thanks, will trawl through that once i'm fed and rested, :) never knew about that site before.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mothman
Can't wait till the weekend so went out to buy spade connectors and duly crimped,don't want to solder incase i didn't like the sound so easier to move on,
sounding lovely so just the matter of widening the hole on the baffle,was thinking of borrowing a hole drill bit but feel a bit unsure,
as i will be drilling it freehand and there being a existing 65mm hole there already, anyone any ideas. :scratch:
http://imageshack.us/scaled/large/854/001hsd.jpg
Hi Andy, glad things sound promising.
A hole saw is not the right tool to widen an existing hole as you'd have no way of centering it and it would wander about chewing wood up. I don't know how much material you need to remove, but it can't be much. I reckon a rotary rasp in a drill will probably do it OK. Just take it very gently and finish off with a hand file and sandpaper.
Bloody Cowboys :rolleyes:
1: Router:
2: Deep Profile trimmer bit (Bearing at the top (none cutting end) of the cutter/at the base of the shank)
3: Piece of 1/4''' MDF to make a cut out template for the router)
The MDF wants to be long enough for you to use the Mid Range unit fixing ter hold it in place.. Once you made perfect cutout in you MDF template you can't go wrong really.
Will the new tweeter completely cover the old faceplate recess?
"Cowboys" indeed!
I was just trying to keep it simple Andre. I agree, a router would do a nice job, but I suspect Andy's bit of woodwork is a small one off and unless he's going to do more, a router and cutter bits is quite an expensive investment.
Any work done with a rasp will be hidden and if done with care should be adequate.
:lol: I'd be climbing the walls if i knew i had an hand trimmed cut out behind my tweeters :DQuote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Yes Geoff, sounded braw and thanks for the heads up btw, ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Been thinking at work today and think the hole saw idea is doable but only if i made a 5mm thick template with outer circumference,
held in place by the 3 clamps then criss cross to find centre, then drill the whole way through,
but will the template be thick enough give me enough purchase to stop hole saw drill bit from going off centre. :scratch:
Don't hold back dude. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Rare Bird
Point #1 is out, can't get a hold of a router whereas i coiuld borrow a hole saw bit from work, lost me #2 and thought about point #3.
The tweeter won't cover the recess being slightly smaller than original, but thats o.k., i am gonna make a gasket from non slip mat that'll cover the slight exposed ring or i could just paint the recessed bit black, either way it'll be fine.
:) As long as you get a good seal, You could fit some tweeter absorption pads over the new face plates which will disguise the gap..
http://www.diffractionbegone.com/newblankcontact.html
The seal is no problem, the tweeters actually have very thin foam backing to seal them to the baffle, quite nifty wee tweeters, anything i am doing is just cosmetic. :)
The way you propose to use the hole saw is feasible, but you could just cut a bit of MDF round to fit the existing holes and glue it in, then you could mark the centre and drill away with the hole saw.
Is it possible to unscrew the new tweeters from the face plates?
I was thinking you could have a pair of faceplaces lazer cut, mount the new tweeter domes in em, bobs your uncle perfect fitting tweeters. :eyebrows:
Sorry Andre, but NO, NO, don't do it! Because the diaphragms and voicecoils come away with the faceplate and then you'll have the whole nightmare of centering the voicecoils in their gaps. You'll have no way of knowing if you've got it right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rare Bird
If there's a gap round the edge of the tweeters just put some black foam sealing strip around and nobody will ever know the difference. (I'll send you some if you need it)
Ok Geoff .Ive not had any hands on with the tweeter in question, it was just an idea.. i know you can with the old Audax tweeters..
Spent last week deciding how best to tackle this without making a pigs ear, discarded the template idea after making 2 templates for it.
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/443/018va.jpg
got a piece of foam backing from shirt packaging, yogurt pot and sharp stanley.
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/818/011bhl.jpg
borrowed the tools needed today, rasp and half round file.
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/705/012vfi.jpg
having drilled out the inside edge with a 1.5mm drill bit, the rasping and filing only took 5 mins to get to the desired diameter.
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/338/003yhv.jpg
having cut out the outer diamater with the yogurt pot firmly pressd onto the foam, turned the pot over and cut the inside and ended up with the exact gasket size.
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/690/005wkc.jpg
did a dry run before using Pritt stick to hold the gasket in place.
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/35/002phm.jpg
happy with the result so clamped the tweeter in place.
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/838/007slu.jpg
now playing sweet music, prove to be a brilliant match, the purple Wharfedale tweeter sound spitty by comparison. :)
Nice one Andy.
It looks very good. The slightly larger dome should actually be better suited to taking up where the 5" mid leaves off than the original HF2000 was.
If the gasket curls up a bit at the edges when the tweeter is tightened into place, just glue the gasket into the recess and it won't happen.
Glad it worked out for you.
Geoff.
(P.S. I expect Andr'e will have something to say when he sees the woodwork though, he has perfectionist standards, mind you it is hidden)
:eek:
:lol:
Geoff,Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Considering my limited resources and lack of workspace, all done with me straddling it on the living room floor as can be seen the tip of my slippers,
it's not too bad, the hole template idea was shelved as i don't think i could hold it in position without anything for the centering drill bit to bite into.
Get what you're saying about the finish could be better, i could have spent longer and wrap a sheet of sandpaper round a aerosol can to round it off nicely,
but it's covered up and everything is retrofitable if i get a set of HF2000 in future, (hardly likely,have you seen the pair that went for £226.00 last week):eek:,
the gasket works a dream, was gonna cut up a sheet of non-slip mat but had this lying around and thought it'd be better. :)
Finally, many thanks to you for the heads-up on this replacement tweeter. :cool:
Andr'eQuote:
Originally Posted by Rare Bird
Is that a very impressed/horrified Eeek !!....or shockingly bad belly bursting Lol !!....., i could always take it all apart and sand it real round,
as long as i have my tub, i could make more gaskets. :D
Pics of my 44's
Lovely, bet you have problems deciding which is better between 44's and the Rogers.
Moved clutter in the foreground to add final pics.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0llqru9t2...2000.04.22.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5l58tt9abf...00.00.10.jpg?m
Rogues gallery are from left to right:
401 (project) on freebie Goodmans C.D player from midi system (all C.D. players sound the same) :scratch::lol:.
Meridian 101/104/105 Mono's.
LFD MMC stage.
Tim de P - TX4 ''the head'' SUT
401 + SME IV (main deck)
GET THOSE BLOODY 44's OFF THE FLOOR - unless you like boom posing as bass...... Been there and dun it yonks ago and still remember how much better they were once lifted 10 to 12 inches off the floor...
Two garrard 401's! Nice.
Thats just as bad, if something isnt finished to the same high standards internally as externally it will equally do my nut in :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Easier said than done Dave when not my prime speakers, defo not gonna drop a 100 quid for low stands when i don't even know if i'm gonna keep them. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DSJR
Yes Andrew, snagged that flat strobed (what i always wanted) one over Christmas cheap when everyone was stuffed and lying in a stupor. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by REXTON
Got the message of what....Quote:
Originally Posted by Rare Bird
:eek:
and that..
:lol:
...means now Andr'e, S'ok, i've got broad shoulders. :D
Don't worry Andy no everyones as nutz as me (I don't think anyone is tbh) :D
Have noticed some Ditton 44's have lost their metal mesh tweeter covers for the HF2000,
is there any interest on my pair before i toss them in the bin?, perfect in every way,
all it needs is the thinnest sliver of double sided tape cut to shape and job jobbed.
PM me with details if interested and i'll pop them in the post FOC.
P.S. Been listening to these and are stupid good btw, as Dave said a bit boomy at higher volumn levels as it's on the floor but they are braw in everyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiicrackpot
Hi
Do they have the grilles. if not no problem i will take them.
Dan,
It's the metal grills, the perimeter paper can't be retrieved, my attempts at taking them off just tore them, PM details and i'll drop them in the post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiicrackpot
PM sent
Metal grilles are available, just ask Stirling Broadcast in the first instance...
Regarding getting them off the floor, you don't need £100+ stands. What about good old decorative house-bricks or breeze blocks for research purposes.........?